Glen-L.com

Not familiar with the Chinook plans. OP can check the fastening schedule on his plans. It will be there if it's recommended.

Okay, it's not recommended on Glen's designs, though. Which is the topic at hand.

If you fasten to the frames on the sides I can just about guarantee it's going to show in the hull after you paint unless you do a ton of work filling and fairing.

That spot just aft of the v berth will most likely be out of the water when on plane. If you do a thru hull just make sure you are far enough away from the trailer bunks (which ideally will be under your bottom battens). Transom mounts are fine too but it's harder to hide that wire and I know you ar...

Somehow I missed your launch. She looks awesome as really impressive on the other boats as well!

Exactly, screws in the longitudinals and glue only on the frames.

That's a pretty big bilge rat.

I would put fuel and trim at the top. Everything else is functional obviously but really decorative.

Definitely nice to have a trim gauge on an outboard. Yeah you can react to the negative symptoms of trim but once you know where your motor is happy at different speeds and loads you can adjust trim and see where you are with a glance at the gauge. I would put the trim in a conspicuous spot close to...

You would not want to screw the plywood to the frames. This would perforate the plywood and weaken it. As well as probably creating an "unfair" appearance at each frame. You do want to put thickened epoxy there.

Nice job! I'm interested to see how you make that all work with the trolling motor.

Looks great! Nice and flat in the rear planing surface!

You can use poxy shield for gluing but you will need to thicken it with something first. Wood flour, silica, or something like that.

I like having interior parts removable. Or at least not glued in. Unless it's structural.

I'm not sure why there are so many folks that think you need more than one layer of cloth. From what I understand you're just adding weight.