Glen-L.com

I haven't found good photos or videos of the process in action, but Don Danenberg has a description on his website: http://www.danenbergboatworks.com/Planking.htm about half way down the page. He uses a custom base/fence on a laminate trimmer with a spiral straight cutting bit. It's a way of getting...

Sweet! Bet that will purr like a kitten

Looking great!

What a great method, works on both sides of the joint and both sides of the boat. This goes into my notebook for my build

Nice!
That hull looks so glossy one could mistake it for a plastic hull.

Looks great! Making good progress now.
How is the clearance between the prop blade tips and the hull? Seems that might be reduced slightly after moving the shaft and motor forward.

Simply awesome! Glad to see you get a richly deserved award.

I'm a bit late to this but will offer up what I did with scarf joints. I prime the mating surfaces of the joint with neat epoxy (no filler or thickeners) using thin coats and letting it "soak in". Epoxy doesn't really penetrate much at all but the neat mix will usually go further into ithe wood than...

Cool trim! Thanks for the radius, clever idea

Your deck is coming along great! I just noticed the inlay strips in your carlings, really nice touch. Question: what radius did you use for the corners of the deck where it meets the carlings? They have a classic look to them.

Way cool touch! For support some nice curved laminated braces in the same wood would look sharp?

I'd have me a bald spot from all the head scratching needed to figure that shape out... Looks great though!

What Bill says! If you are satisfied and happy with it, it's definitely close enough. A 1/16" variation usually won't be visible. You're doing great and your boat is coming along nicely!

Sounds like you have the meranti figured out! I used meranti for all of my flat pieces like transom, motorboard, gussets, stem, etc. I found your cutting methods most helpful. One other suggestion I got from this forum is to use a razor or utility knife to precut the face ply prior to sawing it, it ...

Ohh, those transom bands are pretty! The cutwater is always a challenge to weld while minimizing any weld shrinkage and warping due to the heat. I've seen some use the backbone mold you speak of and also using a heat absorbing mud-like material caked on the metal near the weld joint. Heat input cont...