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North, glad that you found some lower cost extrusions that may serve in your projects. It is kind of important for you to note that if someone were to have spent time replying to your request for 'help' in defining scantlings? Their entire contribution would evaporate as you've moved to a 150% chang...

North, hopefully this image will post and do the 1000 words thing about explanation? https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/kevinmorin_photo/25footer/.highres/4thofJuly021.jpg I looked for elements of docks in my photos but didn't find to many. This one does however have one that explains the ...

North, in most of my dock walk ways, I made the tide adjusting ramps a truss of the handrail and deck. That is I designed and fabbed a trussed 'U' where the walking deck was the bottom of the U and the two handrails the actual trussed frames of the two vertical sides. Here, in SC AK our tides are av...

North, one direction of the loads (up and down) are being sustained by the individual section modulus of the individual pieces of extrusion. The other direction, horizontal or wind and wave load is being supported by a truss- that is the matrix of welded elements the full width of the dock, walk way...

D'Dawg, One thing shows up (somewhat glaringly) in your remarks. You're not yet familiar enough with welding, apparently, to realize the applicability of a welding process to a given scantling of metal boats! I'd suggest you work with the flux core wire a bit, then report how those welds on thin she...

D'Dawg, sure don't need boat hull panels to practice your welding! Starting with just sheared/cut/&cleaned edges of sheet metal you can begin in steel or alum. working on a fine MIG bead in the lap, edge to edge fillet and T Fillet beads on the bench. One important caution is not to use very narrow ...

polynimbus, I actually prefer to weld the inside hull seams and other welds overhead, standing flat footed on the shop floor, as compared to having to kneel down and reach below my knees with the torch to weld when the hull is keel down doing the same welds. My experience with the over head welds is...

North, I'd draw the project in its entirety before I bought or cut anything. Decent is in the eyes of the builder/beholder- so a bit subjective. I don't design based on sheet sizes, I buy to whatever is needed to build my designs. So, what I'd do is draw the project, and make my adjustments to the d...

North, if you accurately draw the plan view of the boat, or built accurately to the plans then you could use them for your cabin plans. Looking at the plan view- the sheer clamp/guard deck/gunwale plate that attaches to the sheer is either a curve following the sheer in Plan View OR its a line ? In ...

North, lots of info there... and many expressed and implied questions. I'd try to give some replies but... they won't be in one four page post. I'll have to try to digest all you've posted, and reply in parts (incrementally) Otherwise, the volume of information you've requested is more than I could ...

polynimbus, Thanks for clarifying your question so well. Yes this would work fine to stiffen the deck edge, seal it from deck wash getting into the bilge and if you put some shelves inside and cutouts to access - make for a nice set of 'lockers' for stowage of miscellaneous items. Have to do some pl...

polyn' I think you've run into the reason why most of my illustrations come with the parts and pieces in wildly different colors? Shades of gray are about as vague as can be visually found? If you'd add some annotation and lighten the extended deck to topsides intersection it would be much more real...

North the idea of essentially making your own windows of the type you've described is a real challenge with welding equipment. the reason is; as you're already aware, welding very thing sections is increasingly difficult as the sections get thinner. SO getting a window on the side of a cabin- lets s...

North, designing the cabin right into the eyes of the bow won't help the design much. begin the forward windscreen (in plan view) about 5-6" to 6' aft the bow stem and not any further forward due to how little volume there would be for the helm station, looks and foredeck being pretty small. If you ...

North, I think 5052 is fine for a cabin, in some designs the top surface may need a bit more framing (smaller open areas) than the other 50series due to being a little less 'stiff' for a given thickness. But most cabins are done in 5052 to save material costs and to facilitate bending forming- the m...