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Looking good. Epoxy is very slick when cured compared to varnish. You might want to varnish the seat to prevent your cushions from sliding around. I launched my first boat with an epoxy only interior. When it got wet we couldn't even stand up in it. We looked like the Keystone cops out on water.

Andy,

I used Famowood's Mahogany Wood Filler and tinted it with dye to get the color I wanted. It dries lighter so you will want to test it on some scrap. It sands pretty easy and I was happy with the results.

It depends on the type of sailing you plan to do. If you want performance you will want to raise the centerboard everytime you have the wind behind you and when you have a following sea. You would then lower it for a reach or any heading into the wind. If you don't care about performance you can lea...

Here is another picture of Robert's boat.

Here are a couple of pictures of John's boat, taken at the 2011 Tavares boat show. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--2zmJ9MbXYg/TaB6d52MArI/AAAAAAAACDk/CSHrGM3RVCA/s720/Tevaras%25202011%2520015.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lMDE-Mb71_s/TaB6gg9oDcI/AAAAAAAACDo/wZePr4oqAhw/s720/Tevaras%2520...

I agree with Roberta, they aren't really needed for the spray. I added them to mine partially for the bling effect and for added protection from docks. Since the rear quarters have a bit of tumblehome I was afraid I would be hitting varnished wood rather than the upper rub rail. The spray rail stick...

Andy,

I still regret my build didn't least longer. I've enjoyed using the boat but my best memories are the build. Enjoy it while you can. Also, I've procrastinated long enough that a better way of doing something came to me.

For my Zip I had three rollers the keel rested on and one bunk on each side. This allowed for easy on and off as well as spreading the load. I would say 60% of the weight was on the rollers and 40% on the bunks.

I epoxied the cut out hole with two coats and then slid the tubes in on the third coat of epoxy.

The link Vupilot included in his post has 18 pictures that show how I connected my steering. My OMC didn't use a steering tube so I didn't have to solve the issues you are facing. Perhaps going without the tube might make things easier for you. The key is the part that connected my engine to the ste...

The notches are certainly easier to cut now but be careful about the cuts for the deck battens and strongback at the top of frame #4. Unless you plan on putting in a false dashboard, that frame will become your dash so you don't want the end grain of a batten showing. You will be better off if you p...

I used this type of joint and liked it. First it made it a little easier to line up and dryfit and secondly I thought it just looked like better craftmanship. I had to use three joints per side although I can't remember if I had 12" or 10" stock.

Wow! I'm blown away, that sure doesn't look like a first time. Looks every bit as good as the one Cutwater Mike made for my boat. Really nice job.

I coated the ply subdeck with a couple of coats of epoxy and scuffed before laying down the planking. Planks were coated with a few coats of epoxy (fills the pores faster than varnish) and topped with about 15 coats of Epifanes.

Better issue sunglasses! That finish may blind someone.