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I'm looking at the forward clearance of my engine in the Monte Carlo compartment and thinking I may have to move the flange aft 1/2" to 1". That will put the prop about 1.5-2" behind the strut, with a 1" shaft. I originally planned to follow the 1X shaft diameter rule, but now I'...

Humbly, I admit that I still have not installed my engine (note the dates of earlier posts), but I am getting closer, I swear! I've put it off mainly because it's SO much easier to work without it in there. In looking at how it will go, the mounts on the engine (Ilmor) will need to go lower than the...

My grandson is 4 now, so in a few years he will be very helpful in my engine compartment as well!

I do know this in advance: Vinegar is the enemy of all resins. If there is any vinegar residue, it will adversely affect resins around it or over it. Not sure about varnish.

I'm going to experiment with it for sure. One concern is what kind of clear coat will be stable over it. Epoxy? CPES? Varnish? Automotive? Sand after or before? Certainly it needs to dry out, but beyond that, I wonder if there's any residual leeching. I also wonder how deep it goes. We shall see and...

Very helpful and gorgeous work, Roberta. My spaces are very different, but I get the idea. Wish I had the ability to go around my stringers in the front, but mine are much wider with the beam that sisters up and goes forward. So I'm going to be stuck with a bit of an awkward seating situation in the...

Wow, that is SO helpful, Roberta! I am going to do the same. Now I'm ready to locate that beam! Even with a 48" hatch opening, getting to various parts of the engine will be a struggle unless I can train my 4 year old grandson to slide in there! But I have lots of room down the sides, so there ...

I'm going to be dropping my big Ilmor in next month and have left the forward deck beam off until I see how much clearance I have. The hatch will be 48X48, which is big enough to remove the engine if necessary. The width of the compartment is fixed. But the length forward will impact how much space ...

I'm not too concerned with the framing itself, although it should look good. I not that others say they use "Meranti ply", so that's why I'm wondering if they used a marine Meranti ply or just regular Meranti ply. I'm doing a walkthrough between the front two cockpits, so there will be a w...

Thanks, Bill. I also reverted to my car for measurements. Where did you fit in the motors and switches for the seat adjustments? (joke) When you say "1/2" ext ply", do you mean ply that is to be veneered with Mahogany, or ext. Meranti ply? Not sure there is any ext. Meranti (or any ve...

"Throwing some lumber at it", as suggested. It seems like 1/2" or 3/4" Meranti ply is the ply of choice for the seat frames (3/4 seems overkill). Does this have to be marine grade? We've got regular Meranti ply here, but they would have to bring in marine. I was thinking I could ...

Thanks for the clarification. I have been more concerned about moisture content, as I said, going from about 12% to about zero. Part of me has argued that it doesn't matter, because lots of boats at Tahoe were built elsewhere and go through the altitude and humidity swings without much problem. Some...

Thanks, all. I assume there are threads on this Forum about caulking the deck seams when the time comes. Appreciate the thoughts.
Brian

Well it's too late now. Hopefully I'm not screwed. My insurance policy is CPES. I have flooded all the wood with it, but of course, it doesn't go into every fiber. Between that and an excess of epoxy and screws, plus oversized wood, maybe I will get lucky. Not much I could do if I wanted to build th...

Bill, it's the same concern where my boat is going....worse! Hot and cold, plus at 6,200'. I have kind of made a bet that my boat can be built so solid that it cannot expand or contract. Lots and lots of epoxy and CPES. But I've taken a big risk in building it in Hawaii (sea level and 12% moisture) ...