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Thanks "Aussie", nice pics and great workmanship. I notice you are using a flush mount ski tow in the transom. A couple of words of caution. Towing from the transom is not a great idea, as the transom is not usually a structural member designed for that. One of the builders at Sierra Boat (the wood ...

Just looking for the appropriate place to ask a question about engine hatch design. Each half is hinged with SS continuous hinge. Got that. But each half is also trimmed with matching width SS band, both ends and the center. Is this just screwed to the perimeter to hide the butt ends of the hatch on...

Thanks, Jim. I forgot you are in Sacto, and could have easily stopped by when we drove up to Tahoe today. But Wednesday we are out via Reno, so maybe next time. My design is a bit different, and I'm not really trying to replicate an original boat. Call it a "GarHackerCraft". But it was very helpful ...

Thanks, all. I'm not looking forward to the learning curve, sweating bullets in tight spaces. I may paddle it out of the Sierra Boat marina, where it is going to be christened! They guys there tell me to stick with what I've got until I get it in the water, and if necessary, a rudder can be custom b...

I'm laying out the cover boards and looking at the plans, they get to about 6" at the transom and about 10" around the helm, then back to about 8" at the bow. Is there some reason cover boards need to be variable width? I was just planning to make them 6" all the way around, plus a 6" king plank. Se...

Wow, Steve & Roberta, major help, thanks. Love both of those joints! I'm designed for 1/4" cover boards, but Think I can still do plugs, which I prefer. I think the widest Sapele I can get is going to be 12". So, for the bow piece, I'm going to try making a 24" wide section by edge-joining two 1/4"p...

I'm building a Monte Carlo, which is a 24.5' boat in the plans. I have stretched it to 27'. The rudder is the one the plans recommend, from Glen-L. But when I look at it, now that the boat is almost finished, I'm wondering if I should have shopped for a bigger one. The reality is, I will put the boa...

Wow, Peter, that's one BIG board! I haven't been able to find Sapele that wide, although I think I can get 12" 4/4 by about 12'. The "butt" I was talking about was linear, ie, side-by side. I have done some of this and a careful seam with the grain from the same board is almost undetectable. I'm thi...

Thanks guys, and for the pics. As I said, my cover boards will be 1/4", but nonetheless, I am unable to find wide enough Sapele to make the bow curve in one piece. Even if I could, the largest band saw I know of here is 16", so that would be the limit of the width, if I could find it. I can get 10-1...

I've searched the Forum, but none of the discussion talks about cover boards on top of ply subdeck, or how to make the curved boards for the bow section. The Monte Carlo uses a full 3/8" ply sundeck (all the way to the shears), with 1/4" mahogany on top. If the cover boards are to be like 5-6", keep...

Yeah, it's a good feeling to know there is metal in the boat taking up the shear stresses. I like the idea of a few screws and then nails. As I thought about it more, it doesn't really matter if there are some slight imperfections in the ply from nails pulling it down into slight imperfections in th...

Thanks for all the replies on my Monte Carlo question. I have also read elsewhere that the nails/screws serve no function except to hold the ply in place while the epoxy cures. The reason I thought of using #6 bronze screws instead of the nails is that screws give you some control over the squeeze o...

I've faired the supports and fitted the 3/8" ply subdeck pieces. I plan to use 3/4" and 1" bronze screws and epoxy to install the subdeck. What should be the spacing along the battens, frames and perimeter? #8 screws? Maybe 3" apart?

The bushing is a great tip I will use. However, it would be difficult, but not impossible, to pull the shaft out and use my drill press to finish it. The flange is set on the shaft using heat to expand it, and the engine is not in yet (so I can't use the engine flange as a puller). Once the engine i...

I have the engine end flange on the shaft, with the key in place. The flange also has two large set screws. My understanding is that the set screws are mainly to keep the shaft from departing when in reverse, and that the fit of the flange bore and the key are what transmit the torque. My plan is to...