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Do the cracks in the bow eye radiate out from the threaded hole? Could they be seen before removal?

Did the whacking cause more damage to the bow eye, as well as the shackles?

Did it make the cracks worse?

Thanks for bringing this up. I have the same situation, but didn't know there is a potential problem. Although, a little thought about pot-metal vs stainless steel might have given me a clue... I may first try pulling it out with the trailer winch....then again maybe not. At least I have all winter.

Well, I am not an inboard guy at all, however my first thought would be the exhaust manifold for the Ford.

Was there ever a water cooled marine manifold for that engine? If so, that would be my obvious choice.

The Squirt is a great little boat; lots of fun to build and use; we built one several years ago. It can be seen at the Customer Photo section, under "Bill & Linda's Squirt". (There is a typo there, one photo is not ours; the group of 9 is ours) We lengthened the boat 15", and re-positioned the dash ...

If the Squirt is built per the plans, there is no need to modify the transom knee. That would be major surgery and/or result in looking funny. Bear in mind, the transom is braced by the cockpit coamings, as well as the knee. In addition to all the other parts. That boat is very strong. Some have bee...

What TomB said. If that is a dent that happened after the epoxy cured, then it likely will swell up with application of lots of hot water.

Well, here is an example of one that does not have a rub-rail around the deck at all. It has been several years now, and I do fully intend to add a stainless rail around the deck edge, when I get around to it... Probably 1/2 inch hollow back rail. Boats do look a little strange without it. Notice we...

One thing to keep in mind when building the motorwell, or rear deck : If it ever becomes necessary to rope-start the outboard, you might appreciate having a place to stand, while planting one foot on the transom top next to the motor, or on the boat bottom near the transom. On the boats that we buil...

Here is one thing to consider: If hull sides are fiber-glassed with 4 or 6 oz cloth (which won't show) and then varnished / bright finished, they will look great. However, if damaged, or deep scratched, or dinged (in the cloth/ bright finished area) it will be difficult to repair and still look grea...

Yes, the Ace design is unique in quite a few respects. Once a person is familiar with that boat, you can spot another one a mile away. Except there aren't many of them. I did not know about the Ace either, until 7 or 8 years ago when I came across Ed's website. I had been thinking about building ano...

That boat is an Ace. The plans for it were published in Science and Mechanics magazine in 1956; you can see the whole Ace story at www.sandeace.com It would be nice if you can send your photos and all info to Ed Waali; his e-mail is at the top of the website. He likes to compile info on all Aces kno...

This a Moeller tank held down with 4 heavy "marine" bungees from the hardware store. They have stainless hook ends. Won't last forever, but easily replaced. They are out of the sun, under a seat. This photo shows the tank just sitting on the battens, but I smartened up and added plywood platform wit...

Question for Billy C In your post, above, you mention removing fiberglass cloth. 1. What is the procedure? 2. Does it tear out little wood fibers as it comes off? 3. Is that surface suitable for bright finishing ever again, or, is it now pretty much suitable only for painting? I have bright finished...

That's a nice looking boat, and motor. The 500 was considered to be one of the very best. In case you have not been involved with vintage Mercury outboards before, here are some resources that will help: www.oldmercs.com Parts and manuals. You will need a service manual. www.marineengine.com Parts. ...

Looks like it has 2 steps in the bottom. Am I seeing that correctly?