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I agree Roberta but many products are not easy to get across the border, plus the exchange rate, duties and taxes.

And right now the Canadian dollar is sucking pretty bad.

Hello from Barrie :) There is a few good sources for wood if you don't mind driving a little. There is Noah's boatbuilding in Toronto (Etobicoke) - usually have everything you might want but they are not always the most economical - but they have "everything" including epoxy in just about every bran...

For years a buddy an I have fished in Northern Ontario, about a 6 hour drive north of Sault Ste. Marie. The last 60 miles in is on what can only be described as a logging road for a few hours after they have sent the grader down to kinda/sorta level it out. At the end of that road is a Provincial Pa...

Can give you a few numbers for maybe similar boats from boat test dot com: Robalo R207 - L 20' 7" B 8' 4" Dry WT 3500 lbs Tested WT 4200 lbs (with a 150 hp Yami outboard) Triumph 195 DC (ok, it's abs not fiberglass) L 20' 0" B 8' 2" Dry WT 2000 lbs (no engine) Tested WT 2700 lbs (with a 115 hp Yami ...

Welcome aboard. There a few very decent suppliers in Ontario where you can get just about everything you might need to build. Depending where you are I can point you in a direction or two. There is also a great supplier in the Buffalo, NY area if you are close to the GTA region (or don't mind drivin...

Most of the plans only list a couple different wood options. My current plans list white oak or mahogany for the frames, chine, keel etc, I'm using Douglas Fir and Khaya. I can get DF super cheap so use it for any frame members etc that are "hidden from sight" and use the Khaya for anything visible ...

Here is the required cut-out dimensions from Merc as published for the 40/50/60 horse 4 stroke models. I would consider this "sufficient" as long as you are considering any of the "major outboard mfg's" such as Evinrude, Mercury, Suzuki, Honda, Yamaha, Tohatsu etc. The Merc's powerhead is the larges...

If you have the model year correct and the serial is all "numbers" that would make it one of the six cylinder models and I would stay away from it. If it's a "later" 1985 that was actually sold as part of the "brand new and redesigned" 1986 models, identified by an alpha-numeric serial and three cyl...

On my Cuddy Sport (stretched to 25' 8") all my frames and longitudinals (chine, sheer, bottom battens) were Douglas Fir. I didn't find it particularly "splintery" (I picked far more Khaya splinters which I used for the decking/windshield frame, helm etc and a ton of Okoume/Gaboon splinters from the ...

So first I will address your battery question. A garden tractor battery will work fine. I have used one personally (and know a couple other guys as well) that have used them to start our vintage motors that don't have charge capability. If the motor starts up easily (so you aren't cranking it over a...

That's kinda what I figured. With this build I'm just hoping to fully understand what and why I'm doing something. Although it's not necessary - you can build without questioning as long as you follow the plan and directions, I feel comfortable enough with the technique that I am starting to ask why...

So being no different then my last two builds I am pouring over the plans for my next attempt. For my last two builds I followed the plans, had great results and really didn't try to figure out "stuff" that was not necessary for what I was doing. I did make some modifications to my last build so did...

If you are building roughly to spec, so will have an (unrigged) 190'ish pound hull weight it will "fly" with a 25. My 14 footer, 250 pound unrigged hull weight is powered by a 15 horse and it makes 21 mph with myself (205 lbs) and the wife (just a couple pounds over half my weight and I'll leave it ...

I would replace it - as noted above, they are cheap for very light duty axle like that (can find them at discount auto places - a quick google search of US suppliers turned up 2200 lb axle with 5 on 4 1/2 hub and bearing buddies for under 100 bucks). To me that looks like it toasted an inner bearing...

I have just started a new build and have been deciding "what wood". In my piece of Eastern Ontario I can get locally milled, kiln dried White Oak for less then half the price per board foot of African Mahogany (which I have used in the past and will be used on all "visible" parts of my new build) an...