Glen-L.com

Get 'em close and then last couple whacks using a punch that is smaller than the nail head - just don't let the punch slip off the nail head

In (covered) locations (inside the hull, gussets etc) I have no issue using ACX rated plywood which is "for protected exterior construction" (such as under shingles, behind siding etc). So if this stuff is "at least" rated to the durability (or better) than Exterior Panel, I would have no issues usi...

Perhaps there is "no standard". Being an "exotic" the APA generally don't stick their fingers into that. This is a description that I got from one of the mfg's (of Sande): This type of lumber is made for marine purposes, making it ideal for outdoor applications. Marine-grade plywood like this is des...

Sande Plywood IS a marine grade plywood. (but I have been unable to find the "standard" for it) The difference being, typically (historically) marine grade plywood is made out of Douglas Fir (domestic) or a few of the African/Phillipine Mahoganies (hardwoods) such as Okoume, Meranti or Sapele - the ...

I would put the B side "in". Not because of finish considerations but personally would rather have the (repairs) compressed from any bending of the panel then (stretching). Don't know if that is a valid concern from a panel integrity point of view, but just seems "better" to me (if you follow what I...

Welcome to the forum Peter.

Down the road in Toronto (Etobicoke) is a place called "Noah's Boatbuilding" (also have a good website). They carry everything you could possibly need for your build although their lumber prices are not the greatest - but they really are a "one stop" shop.

I don't have a calculation but can give you the (theory) that with maybe a little time on google would give you such a formula for calculation. What you are looking at is the difference in "leverage" between the "shorter" short shaft and the "longer" long shaft and how much more stress/pressure it w...

I would suspect that it would need to penetrate (soak in) to the surface (since concrete is porous). So are you suggesting using this on the "bare wood" in the bilge area? Personally, I have coated the entire bilge area of both my (self built) boats with epoxy and don't know if this product would st...

Oil Pressure and (block) Temp are not "typically" included in the main harness and there may not even be a (harness connection) for them at the outboard end of things. While their is a temp sensor for the (guardian/motor protection system on board the motor) it is generally not equipped to send info...

I used to "prep" boats for sale and am trying to envision what you are describing here. The only (gauge) that needs to be fed from the main harness on an outboard is the tach and the auxilary power (to power gauges etc). The remainder of the harness is connected at the control box. On every control ...

I have never used MAS but do use East and West System - live in Canada. With the fastest hardener available I can generally get it to cure as low as about 10C/50F. The temp can drop below that overnight (a bit) and it still cures but I look for a good three or four hours at (that temp) to allow it t...

If it will be stored inside - away from sunlight - I would leave it just glassed.

Then when you get back you can rough up the last coat of epoxy, go with one more coat and carry on with however you will finish it.

You asked about the stem, breasthook and transom in particular. On my 26 footer and my 16 footer both of those got built with BB-Marine because they are straight and laminated so didn't figure the cost of going with 1088 Okoume would provide any advantage. Yes, similar thickness marine has less plie...

Noah's Boatbuilding (on six points drive in Etobicoke) litterally has "everything" you could ever need to build a boat, canoe etc - wood, plywood (multiple marine grade choices), epoxy, hardware, fiberglass cloth etc. Some of their items are maybe a touch pricey but when you factor in shipping from ...

I have used both Khaya and Sapele (as well as some of the Philipine Mahoganies which are actually cedars) - I have no first hand experience with genuine mahogany. I found both easy to work with, both glue up well, machine well and fasten well - the Sapele is "prettier" in my opinion so if I was doin...