Glen-L.com

Check out this Zip with a 25hp outboard: http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=33207

55hp seams like a lot for this boat.

Search out the AOMCI website. Lots of help online for these old motors. Travis has a Zip with an old Merc, and he has several of these old motors.

Welcome!

At least you'll get to see how good your epoxy job is! :lol: But seriously, Milhouse's idea is probably worth trying. I had a similar issue at my scarf joints, but is was minor (<1/16") and it took several coats of clear encapsulation epoxy applied around the dip to bring up to fair. I'm not su...

Congrats, Ted!

Hi Ayman,

A 1960's Johnson 40hp long shaft weighs 150lbs. So, I think if you are under that you will be fine.

Plenty of time to polish it at the end of the season. Looks nice in white.

According to the calculator on bestboatwire.com, 150A over a 14ft run on this size wire will drop 0.424V or 3.5%.

Are you really going to need to weld while out on your boat?

My Johnson outboard had similar ridges on the clamp. I couldn't stand the though of them biting through my paint and veneer. I ground them off and have some hard rubber pads (look in plumping section of HD) between the clamp and the transom. I've been running it all summer and it hasn't moved or loo...

There is not an exact spot for the Chine to meet the stem. It is whatever looks fair. I recommend installing the sheers first. They are typically easier, less twist, and give a good reference for the twist of the chines. Here is how I did it. http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=301...

I started with the sheers. This gave a good reference for the twist of the chine, and stabilized the frame a bit. I also added a Chine block to help hold the a angle at the stem.

Here is how I did it.http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30104&start=60#p183735

Very nice!

Probably just need an inch or two over lap on the glass cloth, but the more you can get the easier it would be to blend in. I don't think you need to get near those flames.

+1 on Sailrite. They carry good quality marine vinyl and the how-to-videos are very well done.

Thanks guys.

Ryan, I emailed you and you're welcome to come over and chat about boats and perhaps take a ride.

Two8nine wrote:should I drop frame 2 slightly so that the keel begins to curve just past frame 1?

Yes. There is a gentle curve between frame 1 and 2. I had the keel attached to the transom and the Stem/frame 2, and then played around with frame1 to get the keel straight from the transom to frame 1.