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Hi, displaced Cannuk originally from outside Sudbury, now in Raleigh, NC. I agree that the pitting shown is not of any significance. The driveshaft goes down immediately into the water pump, and the water pump cover plate holds a seal. You should, at the very least, remove the water pump cover and i...

For what it's worth:

For a good 90% of the hull ply on my ZIP I used NO screws, nails, or fasteners of any kind. Only epoxy. Worked for me.

In terms of full disclosure my 'bucket' seats on my ZIP were not soft because they were pretty cheap seats. Years later I replaced them with better seats and he ride was much better. You get what you pay for!

I opted to run my floor slats side to side. I used 3 floor battens per side and attached vertical strong backs on top of the battens. My floor slats rested on those strong backs. With roughly 6" between battens I could use 5/16" thick floor slats. This made the top of the floor about 3 1/2" below th...

KInd of unconventional but I installed my trailer upside down on my framed hull to determine the bow eye location

OMG: So Sad, will,take a while for disbelief to fade.
Hopefully hr fact that she is so unique will enable locating her more likely.
You might want to post to the AOMCI site as well, they will help keep extra eyes open.

For what it's worth I used VC Performance Epoxy on my ZIP, albeit professionally sprayed, too many chemicals even for me! My ZIP spent several summers in the water for over a month at a time. I believe the product is rated for up to 60 days of immersion. Other than cleaning up the pollen line the bo...

For what it"s worth. My ZIP had a 1959 Mercury Mark35A with 35 HP that was rated at 35 HP. It spec'd out at 135 lb. Others will likely chime in that used more HP and heavier engines. As my old engine was rated at C/S HP and NOT Prop HP like newer engines it was probably equivalent to a newer 30-32 H...

Hi and Welcome, Among vintage outboard folks thosethat work on Old Mercs are often referred to as 'Going to the Dark Side'. I have only worked on old 4 cylinder Mecs so cannot speak to the other brands. They are different, and there is quite a learning curve. My first was a 1959 Mark35A and I restor...

Hi Michael,

I added bottom batten stiffeners. As I recall they were 5/8" thick and varied in height between about 1" - 1 1/2".
I simply epoxied them in place.

Prop on is fine as long as you are in neutral.
Make sure oil mix is on the rich side for test run.

Sometimes there is confusion whether one is trimming up or down. If you are timing down (bringing prop closer to bottom of transom) that tends to bring the bow more. If you are trimming up (moving prop further away from bottom of transom) that tends to lift the bow. Usually you trim up for takeoff, ...

Would the engine mounting holes being below the water line necessarily be a deal breaker?
Seems there should be a viable way to waterproof the through bolts.
Oversize SS 'Fender Washers' siliconed to the transom on either end?

Hi and welcome. When you say power planer I think of that as a 'thickness planer', which will make the thickness constant, but will not 'straighten' a board. What I refer to as a 'Jointer' is used to straighten one edge of a board, the longer the board the longer the bed of the jointer needs to be. ...

First and foremost you will need a starter with the correct number of teeth to mesh with your flywheel, then a stater solenoid, and the ancillary heavy gauge wiring to connect them, and run to a battery. If you have a tiller currently I suspect your lower cowl may not have the hole for the wiring ha...