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I made some more progress on the second planking layer on the bottom. Per a recommendation of a cold-moulded book I have, I am beveling one of the two mating planking edges before epoxying. I almost forgot to do this on the three planking strips shown below. I didn't remember until after I had the e...

Andrew, I found that thickened epoxy doesn't work well to fill screw holes. I tried to do that for a couple on screw holes on my Monaco keel and it just doesn't seem to work. It is hard to get the hole filled and you end up with a dimple. I suggest using bungs and I would do that before fairing. In ...

I have used ~2.5 gallons of poxy shield and ~1.5 gallons of poxy grip so far. I also just got 1.5 gallons of System Three SilverTip for glueing of the second planking layer. For most of my frame, battens, etc. gluing I used poxy shield but you can thicken poxy grip and use it for gluing. I recommend...

To more directly answer your question, you would apply CPES after staining. I believe you need to use an oil based stain. One of the methods talks about applying CPES before and after staining but I don’t think you need to do that with new wood.

Lee

Idigplanes, I understand. That will definitely make your frames more pretty :) Here is a link to some discussions about staining and using CPES. http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html It is from the company that makes CPES. If you scroll down to close to the bottom, it discusses three methods ...

Ian, Good luck with your build. Building a boat is a lot of fun. Idigplanes, Your frames do t need to be stained but they do need to be encapsulated with epoxy. Some people like to use CPES before using encapsulating epoxy and some just use encapsulating epoxy. I like the use of CPES before epoxy fo...

Thank you Carl. It is a slow process but it for sure will make for a strong hull when done.

Lee

Carl,

I like options 1 or 2 but I might change the locations of one or two of the small gauges. I do like oil pressure at the top. I suggest on the right, put fuel at the top, then volts, then water temp. On the right, I suggest swapping hours and trim.

Lee

The first piece of bottom (second layer) planking is on. I went ahead and attached one big piece to start like I did on the first layer. That was a lot of epoxy to spread so it was a little scary :shock: I encapsulated both surfaces first and then thickened the epoxy and spread it on the hull. I am ...

I agree with Matt, I wouldn't try to keep to a timeline and enjoy the build. Things seem to always take much longer that expected. Is the Mist Miss built with cold molded planking? If so, it will be very challenging to complete the planking in one month. I know I am slow but I expect to take one the...

I am getting closer to starting on the second planking layer on the bottom. I will be cutting the first piece soon. Installing the first layer of planking revealed the imperfections of my fairing job. Most areas are actually pretty good but my side battens towards the stern (where the severe curves ...

Carl,

More progress as you press on and yet another step in the journey. Looking good

Lee

Another flip, sweet! Looking good

Lee

Glad the fix worked. Many issues can be fixed with modern epoxy and creativity Your boat is looking good.

Lee

Here is what I use to pre-drill most of the screw holes for the smaller sized screws. The bit is not tapered. It also drills the countersink. When attaching two pieces, I first use this countersink bit through the stationary piece and the piece being attached. Then I use a larger drill bit for the p...