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Tom: I think Bill Edmundson mentioned tinting Interlux at Sherwin Williams. I don't know the details. I have been using WR-LPU from system 3. It goes on nicely and they have a cream color. Only problem is it is not really a bottom paint and can not stay submerged for long periods of time.

Micheal: That is a very nice design.

I agree with cyclone and hercdrvr. Keep the joints near the transom. As for your plan to steam in a bag and bend into place while still steaming. I did the same thing on my build to bend my lift strakes. It worked out nicely. The pieces are very hot! Be sure to use heavy gloves when bending. Don't a...

Very cool Dave! I wish I had a chance to ride in her at the gathering. Maybe next year.

I tried several different things. Epoxy with wood flour: Didn't have to buy anything extra, but very hard to sand. Takes a long time to cure. Quick Fair: Sands nicely. Not cheap. Total Boat Total Fair: Also sands nicely (maybe a little easier than Quick Fair). Also not cheap. Liked Total Fair better...

Remember, most of these boats curve up (or down when upside down) from where the stem joins the last frame. It makes sense that the keel will have a little bend at that point.

I'm not sure about varnish submerged for any period of time. I would consider wr-lpu in clear. I am using it as bottom paint for a boat that will be mostly trailered. You can reach out to them on their help line to see about compatibility.

Welcome Krobs: You can do this Where in southern NY are you. I'm in northern NJ. If you need help locating wood, I can give you a couple of good sources. If you are not too far, you are welcome to come see my build. This forum is awesome. Every one here is willing to help.

Carl: When Lisa and I were engaged, I had her a hope chest that I veneered in cherry. The material was thin and applied with contact cement. I used a heavy roller to attach pieces. Similar to when applying formica laminate. I have also used the heat activated, but had a few problems with it.

Carl: You could fill in the gap and cover the side with a cherry veneer. Something like thishttps://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Paper-Backed-Cherry-Veneer-Flat-Cut-4-x-8.html. I'd fill gap first, cover with veneer and then make a new edge strip.

it is the heat that allows the bend. With a stripper canoe, your pieces are fairly thin and a heat gun will work nicely. I was bending 5/4 lift strakes. The steam allows the heat to penetrate the wood deeper and over a broader area. I don't know how thick the battens are. Heat gun might work.

Here's a short video of karaoke at G12http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZwzTkYK_j8

I needed to steam my lift strakes to get them in place. Found that when using pvc pipe to steam, by the time I got the piece to the boat it had dried or cooled too much to bend easily. I had much better success partial attaching my pieces to the boat, wrapping in heavy plastic and steaming in place....

Jon: Welcome. Others here have built non Glen-L boats. I would definitely recommend the boat building with plywood book. I also bought plans from classic wooden boats that I did not use. There is much more detail in the Glen-L plans. I don't think I would have been able to build my first boat withou...

John, I'm also building a malahini. I have very limited power tools. a router and a trim router, belt sander, circular saw, jigsaw, power plane, chop saw and an oscillating saw. Oh yeah, I also have drills. One corded and two cordless, one of which is impact (very useful for driving bronze screws). ...