Glen-L.com

That's perfect. Thanks Bryan and thanks for the picture. That shows the set-up well. btw - I have been enjoying your build. Nice work.
Bob

I have studied the forum and have decided to use the trim router approach to spile the veneer on my Malahini. I think I have a handle on the technique thanks to the excellent descriptions given by other builders. My questions are basic and due to my lack of experience/knowledge with routers. How do ...

I am planning to use 1/8 inch sapele veneer on the sides and 1/4 inch on the deck and transom. Does anyone know approximate square footage, including adjustment for waste, required?

One other comment with lams. Other than maybe one screw to hold in place at the stem/chine blocking, I would only epoxy to frames until all laminations glued in place. Then you can go back and drive a single screw through all your layers and into each frame.

I went with triple laminations glued on one layer at a time. The sapele bent into position effortlessly. Just make sure your first lam follows a nice fair curve.
Bob

Thanks guys. Bryan, I have been following and admiring your build. So, just to make sure I understand this properly, I could use 3/8(or metric equivalent) plywood in the aft portion of the bottom and 1/4(or metric equivalent) plywood plus veneer, to make up the difference in thickness, on the forwar...

Returning briefly to the water line discussion, can an okoume plywood bottom be stained to match the mahogany veneer side planking at the bow between the chine and the water line or will I need to veneer that portion of the bottom as well? I prefer not to bring the bottom paint all the way to the ch...

Bob, I am building a Malahini but have been boating in a 18.5 ft Sea Ray bowrider with a 115 hp 4 stroke Mercury for 12 years. It has a 20 gallon tank. It depends on what kind of boating you are planning but 10 - 15 gallons of fuel has always met my needs, usually a full day of tubing, skiing, and c...

I have a big weekend planned. The framework is faired. Side panels have been rough cut, joined, and dry fitted. Stem to transition joint properly trimmed and fitted. Today I purchased a small can of extra slow hardener(West 209). All that is left is to glue and screw. I really don't want to screw th...

I am using 6mm(~1/4 inch) Okoume. It took the side transom curve well so I think it will clamp into place on the stem. Love the batten idea. Thanks for the info and advice PeterG!

I fabricated my stem according to the plans. The plans show a bit of concavity to the leading edge of the stem between the chine and the sheer. I didn't think much about this other than to notice it makes a nice visual line. However, now that I am dry fitting my side planking, the planking doesn't n...

I didn't glue or clamp sheer/transom frame junction while other while other sheer/frame junctions dried because I wasn't ready for transom frame to be permanently mounted yet. Therefore, the aft portion of sheer was not pulled in creating the proper bowing of the sheer line. Long story short, sheer ...

See table saw jig on page 95 of Glen-L's book, "Boat Building With Plywood". This approach worked beautifully for me. Definitely attach transom frame to plywood before cutting bevel. I used steel screws initially and waited on the bronze and epoxy until later so I could still tweak transom frame not...

Is there any reason why the transom motor board cannot be made with lumber instead of plywood? I have a 10 inch wide sapele plank that I think will work and it would match the transom frame width so the knee would not require any additional shaving/fabrication. Also, what should the size of the tran...

If building up your sheers and/or chines in laminations, scarf joints not necessary and butt joints adequate as adjacent laminations serve as butt blocks. I am doing my chines in triple laminations. The individual laminations are very easy to handle and bend effortlessly with no steam or boiling wat...