Glen-L.com

I am at the point where I need to consider how to put a cap on the stems of my canoe project, the Huron. Glen L sent me an article from an old newsletter( webletter 112) but I need more help. How do I bend a solid wood cap around the curve of the canoe stems? The newswletter refers to an alternative - using laminations- but I am also not sure about that. Can you provide any guidance on this issue? Also I guess I am supposed to add the cap after I have fiberglassed the canoe, so I need to have the surface ready for the cap to fit before I put on the fiberglass. Not sure where to end the cap on the bottom of the boat.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

My impression of the Cap made of lamination's would be several thin layers of a good wood, heated and bent, and glued down.
I like the Belt and Suspenders building ideas though. I'd still use a long enough, Lapped boat nail to make sure the ends don't de-laminate.
I've never done that, It's just what came to mind when I read your post.

Here is a link..
http://cedarstripcanoe.info/stems/attac ... ern-stems/

You need to make a profile (form) of the bow out of plywood or particle board To clamp several thin wood strips to making the laminated stem...

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I appreciate the input on the lamination style cap. Sounds like more work than I bargained for, but is a viable alternative.

How would a solid wood cap be done. Can I make a solid length of 1 x 1 spruce or mahogany and bend around the stem by making cross cuts every inch or so and gluing it on? There is probably a term for this cross cut idea but I don't know what it is.

Please keep the comments coming, and thanks for the laminations method.

That technique you describe is "kerfing". But I think it would look a little ugly. (unless you want to fill the slots and paint over it)

If the canoe is basically built, you could laminate thin strips 'in place" by doing it progressively over several days...

Do one lamination at a time.

Cut the strips to about 1/4".... Soak them in very hot water.... take a strip and hit it with a hot iron on the inside of the bend... quickly bend the lamination around your stem and tack it down with brads.... after a day, the bend should be "set". epoxy the strip on...

after the epoxy sets, repeat the above process until you have built up the thickness you want.

Then use a plane to blend out the sides and bottom to nicely meet the hull.

(If you try it, please take pictures.... someone else will need to do this some time, and you can be the "expert")

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

This sounds a little 'Rube' but...you might find a Knot in a tree, or a sharp angled Root or Branch of a tree and cut it to fit the width you want.

Bruce,

thanks for the explanation. It seems strange to me to do this after I have fiberglassed the hull. With all the shaping of the laminations, it seems risky or I will just have to be extremely careful. Just to make doubly sure, should I do this before or after fiberglassing the hull. Would spruce wood be ok for this or do you have a better recommendation.

Tom

Also, when can I take the canoe off of the building form. It is low to the ground and I am tall and tired of crawling around on the ground to do some of this work. I think the canoe should be stiff right now fully planked, and would sure like to elevate it to sawhorse height.

Tom,
I built the stems up on my pontoons with 4 laminations that were 3/16" thick. As Bruce mentioned I glued one on a day and used staples to hold in place until the epoxy set. I cut my pieces a little wider than needed. I would then remove the staples and sand into shape before attaching my next piece.

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Tom:

I agree with your instinct.... I would add the stems before I glassed the hull.

As for wood.... I think the last time I put stems on a canoe, I used a harder wood. I think it was ash.

(If you have a keel, I would put that on after I glassed.)

Good luck.

Thanks for the pictures. I did not realize that the Huron had such a "flare" in the panels... That will really slice thru the water nicely.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

One of the "reasons" for putting keels ,stems etc on after, is to make it easier to replace if damaged, and to allow the glass to conform better.

That said, in the case of the stem, I would put mine on first like Gran Chillin, and round over then glass. Just don't run into anything!!

Chillin, post that pic of the finished,sanded, and stained stem where it looks like all one piece....that was a great pic

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Pirate,
I take it you are talking about this one.



Here is one I took last night. It is now glassed.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

That's it!!! Thanks Chip.

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Canoes often have a brass stem band to take the brunt of the landings and other dings.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Great comments everyone and thanks for the pictures. All this really helps me get my mind around the challenge and make a plan.

Thanks