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I'm working from the Sliding Seat plans. I'll be installing them into an Appledore Pea Pod - 16' 9" LOA. There are two stringers in the bottom of the boat, which unfortunately may interfere with the the two stringers of the sliding seat rig. On one hand they will conveniently rest ontop of eachother. On the other hand, I'm afraid I will build the rig, and realize that I am too high above the waterline, and want to lower the unit, but will not be able too. Therefore I am tempted to increase the width between the two stringers on the rig so they they nestle next to eachother and gain an extra 2 or 3 inches. I am uncertain of the location of the WL on the hull, otherwise I could figure things out. Yes yes, I could just throw it in the water and mark it, but this is way I gain experienced opinion. Critical concerns: oarlock heights in reference to sliding seat (fixed in the plans but could be modified), and WL level in relation to those two heights. The angle of effort concerns me... A simple and direct answer would indicate how high the oarlocks should be above the WL. I think I'll go toss the hull in the water to gain some info... Thanks a ton

Welcome.

Not being familiar with those plans,is there an indicated W/L?

Most Glen-L plans have this line somewhere in their plans, so I'm not sure if your designer has indicated this

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
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Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Hi VR.

I don't have experience with the sliding seat, or with the hull design you are building.

But I will validate your "instincts" that 3" of extra seat height in a small, narrow hull is a BIG DEAL.

I have a 15' low volume plywood touring kayak. I originally built a 2" high minicell seat. The boat was just too unstable up on that seat, so I generally just sit right on the floor now. That 2" makes a huge difference in the feel of the boat.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Well, I'm almost certain there is no indicated WL on the glen design, but that would be a nice reference.

I am not building the hull. It's an old glass Alden Appledore Pea Pod. 16' 9' long with a beam of I think 33". It's a double ender that originally had some puny outriggers attached to the rail, but the rail rotted out over time. Replacing the rail now with some Sipo. Glen designs had told me that the oarlocks were about 15" from the bottom of the stringers. I had not verified this since I received the plans though. From the sound of it, I guess I'll modify to go as low as I can, and if necessary adjust the height. Be a shame to need the room and not have it, rather than have the room and not need it. Thanks so far

Have you considered a Front-facing rowing rig?

Many advantages over the sliding seat. Look where you're going and go where you're looking. The olde purist rowers may scoff, but since they're facing backwards, they don't get to watch the guys with the Front-Rowers puling away from them! I have have a Front-Rower in my 15' Merry Wherry since 2006, and have logged over 2000 miles with my daily 2-mile row. Best investment I ever made. This is by no means any record for these rigs...There's a guy who is well into a circumnavigation of the lower 48 using a FR. Made it from Texas to Maine so far. Check out the website.

Maybe you want the satisfaction of building it yourself. If you're interested, call up Ron Rantilla. Maybe he'll sell you a stripped-down version, so you can build the frame and seat arrangement. Good luck. I'll be interested in what you wind up doing.

Rowin Rick