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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:08 am
Posts: 194
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island, NY. Building a Zip/Flying Saucer
62 degrees this past saturday 1/7/12. top speed of 29mph

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cc9IwXrWazU

lower unit leaking badly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pk4lSxXy ... rUnknownMC


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RetroMan
Built A Zip/Flying Saucer. I do my boating on South Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY
Documenting my build on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/SuperUnknownMC
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Posts: 2902
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin
I know on my Merc 500 the oil for the lower unit is limited to the area below the water pump and the prop shaft bearing carrier. No oil is contained above the cavitation plate and visible drilled holes are for water to be able to drain out. Check out my thread on Merc lower unit 101. It will give you an idea of what is involved in servicing the water pump and seals in the lower units. It really does look like the seal(s) below the pump are bad. I ran my Merc quite a while before it started puking oil out every opening in the lower unit. I'm sure your lower unit is somewhat different than mine and I do recommend getting a good manual if you haven't already. These things aren't that hard to repair, but a manual and some tools are helpful.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:08 am
Posts: 194
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island, NY. Building a Zip/Flying Saucer
Thanks for the tips Roberta, I got the manual, guess I should order some tools. I'll keep you posted.

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RetroMan
Built A Zip/Flying Saucer. I do my boating on South Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY
Documenting my build on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/SuperUnknownMC


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Posts: 2902
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin
I would start by dropping the lower unit and pulling off the water pump and base of the pump. The seals you will need to replace will be in that area. If the drive shaft is pitted like mine was and you can't find a replacement, it can be spray welded and re-machined. If that is the case, you will need to go deeper into the lower unit to remove the shaft. Looking at parts explosions of your motor type, it seems that your's is similar to mine. Welcome to the Antique Outboard Club!!!

I have seen a lot of tools on EBay for these motors, but a pin punch can be used to remove the nut holding the prop shaft bearing carrier. Or you can make tools.

Roberta :D

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


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