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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:32 pm 
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Hello all,

Just trying to get together my BOM for my Flying Saucer. I will be stretching it 10% to a finished length of 13'6".

I am planning on using Glen-L's Poxy-Shield for encapsulating purposes and was just planning on buying all of the painting and epoxy-related materials from the Glen-L site for ease of use and to support the forum and the brand.

How many quarts or gallons of the System Three Spar Urethane Varnish will I need for the boat? I plan on painting the whole underside of the boat south of the decking gloss black (please, any specific suggestions for what prep steps I should be taking for this, how many coats of epoxy, what grit sandpaper, what primer, and what paint are welcome!!!) so the only place I would be using varnish would be on the decking.

In terms of the paint, this boat will be used in freshwater almost exclusively and will largely be docked versus beached when we aren't on it, and the boat won't be stored in the water, it'll be stored on a trailer when not in use. What kind and how much primer and paint should I be buying for a high-gloss black finish for anything underneath the decking (on the outside of the hull only)?

Thank you for your time, just trying to make sure I have everything budgeted out etc--Please feel free to comment on my thread in the Epoxy subforum regarding how much and what kind of epoxy to purchase as well.

Matt


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:31 pm 
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Are you going to varnish the dash, floor, seats and/or carlings on the inside the boat also or just the deck?

I bet just the deck alone youll want about 8 coats of varnish for good protection and I would guess that will take around half a gallon or a little more, just for the deck. Its amazing how far a little cup of varnish goes. The problem I have is I need to pour and mix with thinner just enough for one coat exactly because I never have any luck covering and re-using any unused portion so a lot depends how little I waste by measuring well, it takes a couple coats to figure it out just right. Its nice to have other things ready to varnish like floor panels so you can coat them with your extra from each coat on the deck to save from wasting any.

To paint 4 coats on just the bottom of my boat below the waterline I used well under half a gallon.
You must really like sanding! Gloss black will look great if you put in the prep time! Are you painting the transom as well?

Im sure different brands will vary but that should give you some idea.

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http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#
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www.woodduckkayak.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:06 am 
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I will varnish the inside of the cockpit of the boat along with the deck. It sounds like I'll be well off to buy a full gallon of that as 3 quarts individually cost about the same as a gallon IIRC.

What kind of paint did you use to paint the boat below the waterline? As I can't afford to buy 14 foot long panels of marine meranti I'll likely have to go with the 4x8 panels and scarf or butt joint them together in the middle of the boat somewhere, and as a result I will paint the entire hull below the deck.

Is the paint used below the waterline any more expensive than what you would use above the waterline? If it's all the same cost-wise I might as well just paint the whole bottom of the hull in the under-waterline paint. I don't plan on using anti-fouling paint as a result of environmental concerns and lack of variety available in colors--As noted I don't plan to keep the boat in the water overnight or anything. If I ever do sell the boat to someone who is interested in docking it all summer or something I'll just tell them to repaint the bottom of the hull, but honestly I hope to be in a position where I can afford to keep it.

Looking forward to hearing more advice, you said you did 4 coats on just the bottom of the boat on the zip which is a slightly smaller boat than the stretched flying saucer, and I plan on coating the entire hull, so it looks like I'll be buying a gallon of that as well. What did you use for paint? And did you roll and tip the finish, or just one or the other? Some of the tutorials for roll and tip look to give an excellent surface finish if done right.

To be honest, I don't know if I'll be painting the transom--I guess that depends on how it looks. I may try to do something creative like paint it but mask off the letters to have the name in wood-grain--that just involves coming up with a name for the boat first :).

Thank you.

Matt


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:02 am 
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Most all of us used 4x8 sheets so we all have a joint in the side. You barely notice it unless you look for it. I prefer the butt joint as its simple. The trick is to overlap the panels and cut the joint in one cut that way it is almost like a puzzle joint and fits back together perfectly with nearly no gap.

As for paint I have tried 3 brands, all rolled and tipped. You DONT want to use what I used on my Zip which was called SuperMarine Paints. Its not durable enough and although nice enough looking it isnt nearly as simple to apply nor does it lay as smooth as the other major brands.

My paint of choice now after using it on my second boat project is Interlux Brightsides with Prekote primer or Primekote primer. Its amazing stuff worth every penny. You can keep the boat in the water all weekend without worry. Its a topside paint so its perfect for above the waterline as well. Its rolled and tipped on and lays smooooth with high gloss. Here is a great video showing how easy it is to apply and get amazing results, its durable too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

Pettit and System Three make a good product too. I would suggest you stick to one of the tried and true brands such as these.

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My Glen-L Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#
Wood kayak build
www.woodduckkayak.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:45 pm 
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Thank you for the suggestions, I'll definitely look into those. As I noted before I think I'll need a gallon for the hull given how much of it I'm painting, especially if I am doing four coats of the paint by itself. How many coats of primer should I be putting on? Thinking 2 coats of primer and 4 of the paint so that'll be a gallon of paint and 2 quarts of primer? Given that I am not using antifouling paint, would you think it better to use the Epoxy Primekote or the Pre-Kote? There's no instruction for number of coats with the Primekote so I take it that means one coat of that versus 2 coats of Pre-Kote. With epoxy on the joints, a layer of fiberglass over that, and the Primekote Epoxy over that it should be smooth and water-tight. I'm leaning toward Primekote instead of Prekote just because it seems a better solution for under-waterline painting. Let me know what you think as I'm leaning toward this as my final decision.

Matt


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 3:08 pm 
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We discussed the Primekote vs Prekote before on the forum because two of us were being suggested different primers.

A check with Interlux said that since we are putting the paint over an already fiberglassed hull that it didnt matter which we used but to keep confusion down for different situations they only suggest Primekote. At the time I painted mine I didnt know of anything other than what my distributor was suggesting which was the Prekote so that is what I used. I only learned of the Primekote later through the discussion on the forum after another builder was told to use Primekote in the same situation. Anyway, the prekote/brightsides boat is going on its 3rd season and the finish doesnt have even a single scratch. 2 coats primer and 3 coats paint is what i used on that job.

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My Glen-L Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#
Wood kayak build
www.woodduckkayak.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:04 am
Posts: 210
Awesome. Thank you for the insight. So it looks like the Primekote is the way to go because of its epoxy content and sounds like "straight from the horse's mouth."

Did they offer any insight as to whether you need to put on more than one coat of Primekote, or is it a single-coat application? Should I be sanding after this coat, before the brightsides or is it not necessary?

Matt


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:20 pm 
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http://www.pyacht.com/Interlux-Epoxy-Primekote-PDS.pdf

_________________
My Glen-L Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#
Wood kayak build
www.woodduckkayak.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:04 am
Posts: 210
Image

Thank you!

Time to look at the plans again and make sure I don't have any other questions.


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