'Caulk' Options

Painting options, interior and exterior.

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Andy Garrett
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'Caulk' Options

Post by Andy Garrett » Sat Jan 25, 2020 8:32 am

As I refinish my deck with cover and field boards, I will be encapsulating and painting--there will be ZERO bright work on my Zip.

My plan is to paint before caulking the gaps, so... I am left to determine the best way to fill those gaps, and by BEST, I mean, 'something I won't have to redo. I'd like a relatively permanent solution.

Traditional marine caulks do not indicate that they will adhere to paint, but that doesn't mean they won't. But, they also seem to have a limited lifespan, requiring periodic removal and replacement. Removal could mean damaging the underlying paint. I'm pretty sure I'd like to avoid that.

Perhaps a clear coat of UV protectant paint over the caulk, though my experience with UV clear coats on the boat have been less than inspiring (thus the redo).

I was thinking a thickened epoxy 'caulk' and simply painting the contrasting color into the gap with a narrow brush (carefully taped, of course). This would leave opaque paint everywhere for best UV protection. This seems like a laborious but rather permanent solution, but I may be missing a consideration or three.

Are there other products or techniques I should be considering?

I should also state that my caulk lines will be light gray to contrast with primarily white paint.

***A thought: If I lay down the deck boards using 3mm (1/8") Okume plywood, perhaps the following encapsulation and coats of paint will have enough surface tension while curing to create a nice concave meniscus of the proper depth to avoid any need for a 'caulk' to fill it and a simple gray paint line will work.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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mrintense
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by mrintense » Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:58 pm

Deck expansion under heat would be my main concern with a hard permanent solution. Laying in new caulk every few years is certainty less intensive than having to sand and refinish and then re-caulk. If a super hard epoxy paint were put in the cracks before caulking and given sufficient time to cure, removing the caulk could probably be done without too much risk of damage assuming it was something less "permanent" than 5200. Other's will undoubtedly know more.
Carl
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TomB
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by TomB » Sat Jan 25, 2020 3:23 pm

Andy,

I don't think I could get the epoxy to hold a uniform meniscus everywhere. Maybe a round nose/core box bit using just enough of the bit to cut the meniscus shape in the plywood sheet and then encapsulate, paint and pinstripe.

Tom

gdcarpenter
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by gdcarpenter » Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:45 pm

A bit pricey and a bit fastidious to use in that it must dry for about a week before sanding, but Boat Life Caulk is very reputable product. Used it on my Boat Bow Wine Bar.
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Jimbob
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by Jimbob » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:53 am

I used boatlife polysulfide life-caulk. It can be sanded, painted over, and varnished over.
Great stuff easy to work with, cleans up with mineral spirits. I sprayed varnish over the deck before applying, and then varnish on top of the caulk once it set up. See page 12 of my build on the link below.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089&start=165
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Andy Garrett
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by Andy Garrett » Fri Jan 31, 2020 8:35 am

Thanks for the advice fellas.

Great bar GD!

Jim, your process pics are great!

Cutting grooves into my existing 1/4 deck was my original thought, but cutting perfectly straight lines would seem more laborious than laying boards.

My inclination at this point is my 1/8" ply option. With a groove depth of 1/8" between boards, encapsulation, primer, and two coats of white paint, I imagine a final depth of about 1/16" to 3/32". These coats will provide some degree of radius in the groove and I can always go through the grooves with a radiused dowel end wrapped in sandpaper to make a nice uniform channel . Then a hand striped final gray paint will finish the job unless I clear coat the works for a uniform sheen.

With this color combo in the Pacific Northwest, I don't have thermal expansion concerns, but I will keep a close eye on it.

Probably the biggest reason to go this route and not use a regular product like Life Caulk is that I can find none in my preferred color. :?

Thanks again!
Last edited by Andy Garrett on Sat Feb 01, 2020 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Jimbob
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by Jimbob » Fri Jan 31, 2020 5:10 pm

You said you couldn't find the color of caulk that you wanted. I would find a caulk that is close to the color you are looking for, varnish over it, and then paint it the color you want. On classic boats they use white caulk. The color turns amber when varnish goes on top, so they paint the caulk lines with white bootstrap paint. That's what I did on my boat.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Andy Garrett
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Re: 'Caulk' Options

Post by Andy Garrett » Sat Feb 01, 2020 5:43 pm

Jim, My current deck is the one in my avatar. My new one will be this. Not exactly 'classic'.
If my plan fails, I may try a traditional caulk after all.
I feel a test board coming.
dsn-zipl.jpg
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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