Glen-L.com

Goal:
white hull with a stained wood stripe down the side (above the waterline) with white above and below

Option A:
If I clear the stripe area over the epoxy, then apply the white, I save on clear coat because I only need to paint the stripe. The potential drawback is that I have 'edges' where the white stops to form an edge of the wood stripe.

Option B:
If I apply the white first and then clear the entire inverted hull, I protect the 'edges' of the white, but use a ton more clear, not to mention much more sanding and buffing.

My deck will be sprayed with House of Kolor clear, because I have the equipment and experience to do that, and I can trailer it to the paint shop. However, because it will still be inverted on the form and in my garage, the hull will be rolled. House of Kolor can't be rolled, so I will use one of the marine paint lines which can be.

Also, how does primer figure in? If the marine clears will adhere to the epoxy without primer, why won't the colors?

When waterlines, bootstripes, etc. are painted, is a clear coat required to protect those edges?

In any case, I will opt for two stage catalyzed paints and clears. I just think that they perform best if mixed and applied properly.

Any suggestions are welcome.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Wondering, from what I understand, if you hit the sides with the white, could you then tape off the white and hit the 'stripe' with clear, to build up the clear enough in that one 'stripe' area to 'level out' with the paint edge. Then, if you wanted, you could overshoot the entire area with clear>

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Urethane paints do adhere to epoxy. I also used automotive paints on my build and topcoats do stick to epoxy if properly sanded.
Primers over epoxy would be for surfacing/sanding since adhesion is not the issue.
On my topsides I bought generic label urethanes online and the primer/surfacer is outstanding, fast build, easy to sand.
here is the link to my build.
http://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboard9/pic503a.html
all the mahogany is simply auto clear urethane over epoxy; all white is generic urethane over urethane surfacer, over epoxy. All of it is automotive 2part urethane sprayed in the back yard. Nothing special nor 'marine' grade about it.

The bottom is only epoxy mixed with graphite powder for a black, no paint bottom.

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God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

Andy go for option a and just wild spray the clear where you want the clear stripe to be spray it oversize and then feather sand the edges of the stripe then you can tape out for the white and spray that when you are done there wont be a paint line under the white the urathanes stick to epoxy very well with no primer just as Ken said so you should be just fine with the house of color paints

I wish I could use HOK stuff on the hull, but it can't be rolled and I can spray it where it will be when it is still inverted.

I need to select a paint system that is formulated for rolling, That means primer, white, and clear. I loath the idea of this due to all the sanding, but shy of buying a big, high-flow compressor and setting it up in my garage... WAIT... I bet I could rent one!

There may be hope! Gotta make a call!

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

How big is your boat?

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God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

DuPont Marine finishes lists two products for brush application :

DuPont 18101S™ Brush & Roll Activator and DuPont 18701S™ Brush & Roll Reducer

Sherwin-Williams has a rolling reducer for use in their solvent-based urethane coatings :

E-Z Roll Reducer, Urethane Defoamer

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Paul Kane Chelsea, PQ

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com