Lessons learned on SM1000

Painting options, interior and exterior.

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soedesh
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by soedesh »

Ouch vupilot. It will take a while to get that image out of my mind!

I wear a t-shirt while painting, but I dampen it with SM1000 so I'm like a human tack cloth. :shock:

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Bergy
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by Bergy »

Wow! I love multi-tasking!
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DaveLott
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by DaveLott »

soedesh wrote:I'm finding that after each coat I tend to have some small bumps here and there (in addition to other dust in paint) that the scotch brite (green) doesn't really remove. So, I've been lightly hand sanding with 500 grit on a rubber sanding block between coats. Then I scuff with the scotch brite and then wipe with tack cloth.

I have relatively dusty conditions, so maybe others didn't have to deal with this.

Has anyone used steel wool to remove the dust nibs??????
Dave

Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project
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Bergy
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by Bergy »

Not I Dave. Think it would create more of a problem. I've used it with butchers wax refinishing furnature. On my boat I used bronze wool to clean fittings.
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
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upspirate

Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by upspirate »

I've always heard NOT to use steel wool as it will leave behind particles that'll rust.

As Bergy says, use bronze wool

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soedesh
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by soedesh »

Well, I am planning on the fourth coat for tomorrow, and I think that will be the last. I think I'll wait until later to decide if and how to polish this paint. Still, I'm wondering if there will be a way to remove the dust from the finished surface without going through the whole procedure of 400, 600, 800, ... , buffing etc. It would be nice to have a smooth surface even if it wasn't as glossy as I'd like.

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soedesh
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by soedesh »

Photo of the end result, proving conclusively that if viewed at a great enough distance, and with low enough resolution, any paint job can look at least mediocre! :P

(photo flipped again, not sure why)
photo(1).JPG

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ttownshaw
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by ttownshaw »

Fixed the flipped photo...looks slick!
Bill

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DaveLott
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by DaveLott »

I'll take it anyday.
Dave

Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project
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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

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vupilot
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by vupilot »

Looks great from here.

For info on polishing SM1000 check Teds build log. Go halfway down this page.
http://tedsbuild.blogspot.com/2010_05_01_archive.html

You can see the paint gloss before polishing here.
http://tedsbuild.blogspot.com/2010_03_01_archive.html

Its a TON of work, especially on the entire hull. I've seen Teds boat in person, the paint is smoooooth and now its kinda satin or semi-gloss looking. I dont have the patience and the first scratch would just kill me but it sure looked good when I saw it

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soedesh
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by soedesh »

Thanks vupilot.

Some other comments on painting the SM1000 for future reference (we should have a sticky on this subject).
  • I did find that as I applied the later coats of paint that I could get a pretty good, shiny finish by applying a bit more paint. This definitely takes some feel because too much paint gets really bumpy. If the paint is applied too thinly, it gets a sort of haze to it when it dries, while the somewhat thicker coats kept a bit more shine after drying.
  • I also switched from the foam brush to a high quality bristle brush for tipping. This seemed to provide a better finish with a bit less streaking.
  • I also found that if I moved the tipping brush too quickly across the surface, it would create some lines that weren't there if I slowed down with the tipping brush.
Now I really am not motivated to sand and polish the whole surface and I kind of like the look of the paint as is. However there is a fair amount of dust and some fibers in the paint that I'd like to get rid of, I'm hoping I might be able to polish this out somehow without sanding down the whole finish. I'm wondering if I could go directly to the finer grits or a buffing compound without the coarser grits. This might leave the slight orange peel (which is OK with me) while removing the dust?

I have a test panel I painted that I'll use to try this theory out, unless someone knows the answer.

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vupilot
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Re: Lessons learned on SM1000

Post by vupilot »

I've tried light polish compounds and it created a haze that did not go away.

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