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I've been varnishing my dash panel, and it seems that no matter how well I clean the part and filter the varnish, I still get some small specks in the finish which appear as tiny bumps in the finish when it is cured. I've read some prior posts on buffing out the varnish, but I'm wondering if anyone has a technique for getting a relatively bump-free finish without needing to do polishing. I am relatively sure this is not from dust after the application, I can see the small bumps right after the varnish flows out.

I kind of suspect the bumps are due to some tiny lumps in the varnish which might go right through the paint strainers I'm using. Maybe others use an alternative filter for the final coat of varnish?

Is your dash in place (vertical) ? I like spraying varnish, like minwax spar varnish. The other trick I've done is diluting regular varnish with mineral spirits about 50-50 and applying with a lint free cloth. You can apply a coat, let dry then buff with scotch pad, wipe with mineral spirits with lint free rag and repeat. My bar has 10 coats using that process as well as some furniture projects. Good luck.

Two questions please:

How many coats have you applied thus far?

Did you use a grain filler?

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Dave

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Hey Dave,
Does epoxy count as a filler if you've encapsulated and sanded smooth?

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I think that the only way to get a smooth finish is that you have to sand between coats. Other wise you are just coaering up all the dust that get in the varnish. When I did the sides of my Zip I stained first .Then Let that dry several days. Went over it with 3m super fine sanding pad with a block backer. Wiped off with a lint free rag. Put on a coat of thinned hogh build sealer. Let that dry good Then sanded that and wiped off with denatured alcohol. Put on another coat not thinned, let dry and sanded. Then started with high build varnish, with the same process after each coat. After 2 more coats it is as smooth as can be. I think the trick here is to put varnish on over a smooth coat.
I have seen varnish sprayed on warm. And that finish is out standing. Putting it on warm you can put 3 coats of sanding sealer in one day. Sand and clean off, put on 2 more gloss varnish next day and final coat on the 3rd day and your done.
Jeff

I have about 8 coats and the grain was completely sealed smooth several coats ago. The surface wasn't sealed. I am finishing the part flat (not vertical). Note the the finish overall is beautiful and like glass, it just has some tiny bumps on it. At this point I'm using the varnish thinned about 10% and sanding with 400 grit between coats. It is Epifanes gloss varnish.

If using a used brush the specks could be from it. Some people buy a new brush for each boat and the final coat, after sanding the first coats, is done with it.

Scott

Absolutely. There are some that are holding to the thought of encapsulating first with epoxy before varnishing.

The nibs you spoke of reminds me of grain that has stood proud. It takes several coats to fill the open grain and cover those nibs. But after 4-5 coats you have to lightly sand with 220-320 to knock those off.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

if NY is anything like GA. is right know its probably pollen getting in your finish this time of year is the worst for trying to paint. That stuff will settle on the surface faster than you can tack it off even in a paint booth

If you are using a brush to put the finish on with. Try using a epoxy type roller and tip it off with a foam brush. This is what I used on the sides of my boat. The other thing is that a board laying flat is more likley to get things on it. Try hanging it after you have put a coat on. What sort of area are you doing the varnishing in. And do you leave that area after you put a coat on.
Jeff

This is in my garage, and I am careful not to make dust and I leave the room undisturbed while the part is drying. I looked at the "nibs" with a magnifying glass and it looks to me like little chunks of cured varnish. Since this happened even with a brand new brush I assume that this is from small cured chunks in the varnish can. I found that I was able to filter the varnish through a coffee filter, I think I'll see if that solves the problem (along with the great advice I got here).

Neat idea. I might try that instead of those funnel or coned shaped paint filters next week when I freshen up the kayak with a couple more coats of vanish.

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Just an update that the following web page is a really good description of how to apply marine varnish: http://www.defender.com/html/varnish.html

Good post and link. This describes the way I have been doing my Zip. I use a 16" long board with 240 grit paper between coats along with scotch brite and a randon orbit disc air sander.. It is amazing to see how much flatter and nicer each coat gets. I am at 15 coats on my Zip using Epifanes and nearing the end. It is a lot of work, but the results will be worth it. You literally fair the varnish into a perfetly flat finish.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"