Latex Paint

Painting options, interior and exterior.

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Bill Edmundson
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Latex Paint

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:26 am

I just read the article in the 3/28 newsletter on using exterior latex paint. Has anyone here tried it?

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jprice
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by jprice » Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:13 am

Interesting. I always thought it would be fine for topside, but never for a bottom paint.
Since I will be doing some topside painting relatively soon, I think I will try this. Certainly can't beat the price. :D

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Re: Latex Paint

Post by Lowka53 » Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:34 am

Bill Edmundson wrote:I just read the article in the 3/28 newsletter on using exterior latex paint. Has anyone here tried it?

Bill
I have read the same article but have never tried it. I thought about trying it on the Mr John I am building it is a cheap build so would be a good test boat
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:49 pm

I had considered it inside the cabin. But, I want the same colors inside the cockpit area. You know at some point you have so much invested in your boat. Then, it doesn't make sense to not use something proven. Many have tried new ideas only to find that the time, effort and money to fix it really out way the original savings. That is why I always say, "Bottom paint is for the Bottom." Someday you will leave the boat in the water too long and get blisters. Now fix it.

However, above the waterline Latex sealer/primer and house paint adds up to a lot of savings over marine brands of PU and epoxy paints.

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galamb
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by galamb » Mon Apr 14, 2014 5:11 pm

The paint companies have been doing some pretty innovative things over the past few years. At least on my side of the border we have pretty much completely stopped sales of "oil based" paints (which is really a generic term for everything "except" water based, at least as far as the general public is concerned) for houses, decks etc (I imagine the push came from the US ????).

Anyhow, that has resulted in the paint companies reformulating to try and put some durability back into traditional paint types such as melamine and exterior "house" which they can no longer produce and sell in the (old) alkyd formula.

A lot of work with acrylic and enamel in latex bases (which actually don't contain latex - go figure) had been done to dramatically increase their durability over what was 10 or 20 years back.

We deal with CIL where I work and they have been pushing many new formulations. I'm still not ready to totally jump on board with some of the "latest" concoctions simply because they are so new they have no track history. But as the push continues for "greener" paints I'm sure they will step up.

But I share Bill's apprehension, at least for the moment. Marine paint is still expensive, but replacing portions of the hull would be more expensive.
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by chugalug » Fri Jul 10, 2015 3:50 am

:D Willing to try it on my hull(chugalug).Even have colors chosen a sublime green for sides and carrottop for bulwarks.carrottop is as close to the teal bottom paint-according to my colorblind eyes :lol: read a little about using house paint in the Glen-l boatbuilders notebook.The sublime color is a little darker than the lemonade/limeaid,then there's white.
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by kens » Fri Jul 10, 2015 5:16 am

I tried latex on some of my floorboards.
It did adhere, it did not peel, but, it does get dirty looking the worst of any paint product I tried.
Once it gets dirty looking it is the hardest paint to get to look good again.
With so many other paint choices out there, why bother?

For a inexpensive interior cabin paint, why not plain hardware store enamel? Garage floor paint?
Industrial paint 2-part poly would be a good way to go.

I got Sherwin Williams industrial 2-part for $100(2-gallon kit) I like this stuff. This is my beige hull insides and it has held up well, easy to wash off. It is thick to apply, not glossy, not real smooth, but holds up well, and compatible with epoxy base. You can get it in different colors. This stuff has held up to shark blood, tuna guts, and fishing sinkers.
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by chugalug » Fri Jul 10, 2015 6:13 am

:D I was thinking on using it for topside hull paint not underfoot floor paint .floor will probably be outdoor carpet
Last edited by chugalug on Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by chugalug » Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:12 pm

was thinking on trying this stuff and primer on the outside and inside cabin (color of paint is sublime)primer says it stick well(without sanding) to all slick surfaces including fiberglass doors.
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Dave Grason
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by Dave Grason » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:10 pm

chugalug wrote: ...primer says it stick well(without sanding) to all slick surfaces including fiberglass doors...
I have learned to NEVER completely trust claims made on the label of paint cans. Also, I never trust the tech sheets either. I have taken these instructions in complete good faith only to find myself with a mess and having to completely redo what I had just spent too many hours doing in the first place.

As fat as fiberglass doors go, even slick ones, think about it. The primer is what will give the topcoat something in which to adhere. So the end finish is going to be only as strong as the bond between the primer and the fiberglass. The two separate materials can only make a connection one of two ways - either chemically or mechanically.

If chemically, the primer has something in it that somehow would soften the surface of the fiberglass so that the primer can bond.

If mechanically, you would have to roughen up the surface somehow so as to give the primer some tooth. Am I correct here?
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by Dave Grason » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:11 pm

Dave Grason wrote:
chugalug wrote: ...primer says it stick well(without sanding) to all slick surfaces including fiberglass doors...
I have learned to NEVER completely trust claims made on the label of paint cans. Also, I never trust the tech sheets. I have all too often taken such instructions in complete good faith only to find myself with a mess and having to completely redo what I had just spent too many hours doing in the first place.

As far as fiberglass doors go, even slick ones, think about it. The primer is what will give the topcoat something in which to adhere. So the end finish is going to be only as strong as the bond between the primer and the fiberglass. The two separate materials can only make a connection one of two ways - either chemically or mechanically.

If chemically, the primer has something in it that somehow would soften the surface of the fiberglass so that the primer can bond. I don't think so.

If mechanically, you would have to roughen up the surface somehow so as to give the primer some tooth. Am I correct here?
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by chugalug » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:26 pm

:roll: The hull is far from slick since I sanded it all down to smooth it out.If you don't trust labels -guess I can't trust the 250.00 a gallon stuff either.
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by Dave Grason » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:32 pm

I think (and notice that I use the word "THINK" :lol: ) that, If the topcoat is NOT going to be below the waterline and NOT going to be walked on all the time, you're going to be fine if you've got surface that is just rough enough for the primer to bite.

Agree or no?
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by chugalug » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:45 pm

:D YES.I hope it's not below waterline.I tried to figure out where the waterline was when boat was inverted and added an inch or so when I put bottom paint on.The more stuff I add to cabin makes me wonder where to put the perascope :lol:
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Re: Latex Paint

Post by vupilot » Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:22 pm

Just an FYI, the entire hull of the inside and out, above AND below the water line of the Glen-L Utility I bought a couple years ago and brought with me to the Gathering last year was painted with Behr latex house paint from Home Depot. The hull wasn't fiberglassed to the best of my knowledge, even though the builder said the hull was fiberglassed I didn't find that to be the case. The seams in the hull may have been, but the entire hull was not. Anyhooo.....

That builder figured house paint is some of the most tested and competitive markets of any product so he figured it ought to be pretty good. I bought the boat when it was 5 years old and when I went to get it he had it stored in his backyard against the house under a tarp and on a trailer, so I assume it was stored there year around. That house paint didn't show any wear! I used the boat for 2 seasons and left the boat in the water for 3 days straight at the Gathering with nothing but house paint over bare wood. It didn't bubble, it didn't flake, it didn't care! (Yet my 100$/gal Supermarine paint on the Zip bubbles after 4 days in water)
The only "trouble" spot on the boat when I bought it was right around the drain plug. The paint had cracked there and the sleeve wasnt bedded in epoxy very well. So I sanded the transom by the drain plug and found no fiberglass there or on the bottom below the drain and no signs the wood was getting wet, it was solid and clean. Only the area inside the drain plug hole was getting any moisture and that was just a poorly sealed hole. I re-bedded the drain plug sleeve and used fiberglass around the area of the plug and on the bottom just below the plug. That's the only repair I made to the boat.

My point is, I was impressed with the house paint. I wouldn't hesitate to use it and you can get it in a gazillion colors. What will eventually be that particular Utility boats demise is its lack of fiberglass used on the hull, not the type of paint used. Had that boat been fiberglassed I probably would have kept it.

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