Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

[BayouBengal]

S3 will custom mix the color for you. All you need to do is send them a color card identifying the color you want.

[JimmY]

Hi Bryan,

Yes that is what I'm recommending for rolling and tipping. It appears to me that the more coats, the deeper the brush marks so you end up sanding more to get the paint level.

[DrBryanJ]

I didn't know they would mix color for you. There are some Barrett Jackson colors I would like to use. I'll have to check it out.

Bryan

[Bill Edmundson]

Does the value of this forum ever end? I didn't know they would mix either.

Bill

[Mr Hot Rod]

If you're spraying your finish, you have many options :

• • Barrett-Jackson & Sherwin-Williams
  
  • Color Finder
  
  • Refinish Systems
  
  • Sherwin-Williams GENESIS® GC 3.5 Low VOC Acrylic Polyurethane

If you wish to roll & tip your finish :

• • E-Z Roll Reducer, Urethane Defoamer provides a better final appearance and minimizes the potential for foaming and bubbling during roller application.

This paint and PPG urethane products have held up to 80+ MPH runs and thousands of miles of trailering with minimal wear and tear on the paint. Click here more details.

____________________
Paul Kane
Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com
Glen-L Hot Rod build thread
Kane Custom Boats YouTube channel
Glen-L Boat Video Directory

[JimmY]

From the System 3 paint "Description and Application Guide":

Notes:
We factory-tint all our colors, using special pigment dispersions that
these materials require. Custom-matched colors are available, in
gallons only, for an up charge. System Three requires a sample of the
color to be matched.

[ToddM]

From Dave: “So I really think that spraying on a finish is likely very intimidating.”

I use nitrocellulose lacquer on furniture, and I brush it on, even though spraying with an HVLP is quicker, more accurate, and more consistent, because I am completely unconfident in my ability to clean out a solvent based product from a sprayer. And my perception is that the cleanup will be very messy. Spraying is easy; cleaning, not so much. And no, I don’t have to clean the brush I use for lacquer. I wrap the brush in Saran wrap and stick it in lacquer thinner for a minute before I use it the next time.

From Dave: "The varnish will give the boat a really shiny gloss and also will provide UV protection that the epoxy does not do. You're done.”

You don’t color sand varnish? I have always used lacquer, so I don’t know varnish.

From Dave: “Then, after you have the cloth and epoxy applied, you can sand that until smooth and then apply the primer.”

What happens if you sand through the epoxy to the fiberglass? Can you just apply some more epoxy, or do you have to go though some monsterous process?

From Dave: “ With a little prep work, some careful masking and good spray techniques, it is amazing the quality that spray cans can deliver these days.”

Absolutely! When I want to spray nitrocellulose lacquer, I use rattle cans cuz I don’t want to deal with the clean up.

There is a cliché about paint or clear finish quality, “The looks and durability of the finish coat depend more on the prep than the actual paint.” And I have found this to be true. When the directions say to clean and tack the surface, there is a really good reason. When the directions say to sand any shiny surface before applying, there is a reason. When the directions give temperature and humidity limits for application, there is a good reason. When the directions say to pour the finish through a strainer or stir well, or when your compressor says to use a moisture filter, guess what? When you hear about an incredible finish where someone applied 20 coats of lacquer, it ain’t the 20 coats that look so good. It is the leveling, (sanding), between every few coats, and the final polishing, (320 grit to 4000 grit to the polishing material), that looks good. 18 of the 20 coats of lacquer may have been sanded off, but whatever remains is flat.

[BayouBengal]

Sounds like we got a new guy here with a lot more than a cursory knowledge and amount of experience regarding finishes and that's something that a lot of guys can use help with. Welcome to the forum!!!

[ToddM]

Sorry to disappoint BayouBengal, but my experience is limited to nitrocellulose lacquer and some oil finishes for wood furniture. I know nothing about varnish, and my experience with paint is that just like the cliche, 90% of a good paint job is in the prep. And I have learned about lacquer the hard way, fixing mistakes, rather than the easy way, following the directions.

[BillJ]

I do realize this thread has a little age on it but lots of great information.

[Sarnian]

I've read this post a few times - and I am really intrigued by the idea of spraying an auto finish on my boat. I will finish the sides bright, and the bottom a solid color. So a question - does anyone have a recommendation for an auto system to use? My boat will be fully fiberglassed with a few coats of epoxy - so following this - I think I understand that it goes -

primer (only on bottom)
color (only on bottom)
clear (on both bottom and sides)

but in looking around at the various systems I have become slightly lost as to which I should use (looked at house of Kolor, PPG, BASF). Any specific recommendations for a system from soup to nuts?

[Mr Hot Rod]

My previous post covered most of these questions.

I've expanded and moved the post to the Painting topic :

• Knowledge Base - Painting

Hope this helps !

____________________
Paul Kane
Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com
Glen-L Hot Rod build thread
Kane Custom Boats YouTube channel
Glen-L Boat Video Directory

[Sarnian]

Hi Paul - this is helpful (I had found your post earlier - which is great).

I guess I am still looking for a little clarification - perhaps one question will help me start to drill down a little. I am hoping to spray without using a forced air respirator (so just using an organic solvent mask or similar). Are there products that would allow me to do that? (I assume, this means that they do not contain isocyanates).

thanks v much

[Mr Hot Rod]

You might consider a single part solvent-based paint such as RUST-OLEUM's Marine line of paints. Primer, topsides and bottom paint.
Follow the link below for more info.

• ● Rustoleum Boat Paint
  
  ● RUST-OLEUM Marine Coatings (rustoleum.com)

An air-supplied mask is a great investment. Not only does it ensure a fresh, cool air supply, a full-face mask keeps you cool and prevents fogging if you wear eyeglasses. Makes the painting experience so much better !

____________________
Paul Kane
Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com
Glen-L Hot Rod build thread
Kane Custom Boats YouTube channel
Glen-L Boat Video Directory