Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Painting options, interior and exterior.

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kens
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by kens » Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:35 am

All the paint on my boat is automotive 2-part poly. It is fine.
Automotive clear over clear epoxy brightwork is awesome.
Most of our builders are not equipped to spray automotive paints, few have any experience spraying, that is probably why marine paints are better, they can brush it on.
My experience with paints is that brush on is thicker viscosity, I'll assume that if you get the correct thinner you could thin out brush on paint until it could be sprayed. I don't know I never experimented with this.
Marine paints are expensive, and auto paint aint cheap. A Full gallon of auto paint is in the $100 range, if you want red, up that some more. And Im speaking of the cheap stuff, solid color, on the internet.
If you want the good stuff, basecoat/clearcoat, then the base is about $100/gallon + the clear coat $100/gal + activator + whatever thinners you need + the ability to spray + air compressor + paint booth + respirator + masking as required + dust control + overspray control + ventilation +++++ and so on.

I sprayed because I had lived a former life in a body shop, I still got a compressor, paint guns, respirator, and such ilk.
Yes, the auto paints are equally high quality as marine counterparts. However, most of the Joe Builders on this forum would be better suited to brush on paint, they just aint equipped or experienced to spray.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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mrintense
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by mrintense » Wed Feb 24, 2016 8:36 pm

Bumping this thread to revisit this topic.

I have been researching paint for my Vera Cruise and had nearly settled on a brand. My thinking up until a few minutes ago was that a good quality two part polyurethane paint applied to the sides (and bottom) would be fine for a boat that is trailered most of the time. I was more worried about the ability to hold up under sliding along the bunks than anything else.

But I happened to read something that made me realize that a trailered boat will be setting on a wet carpet for a period of time. The carpet directly under the boat will probably stay wet for quite some time, especially if the boat is indoors out of the sun.

In this scenario, how does the use of polyurethane hold up? Is this area in direct contact with the wet carpet subject to blistering or discoloration after a short while?

I don't feel that anti-fouling paint is necessary (if I understand the reasons for it's use), but I've seen references to something called hard bottom paint, presumably with some copper mixed into the paint, although I am not sure of this. I seem to remember something about a paint called VC but can't remember the brand or any details about it other than it was extremely durable.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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mrintense
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by mrintense » Wed Feb 24, 2016 8:42 pm

Okay, just read a bit more and forgot about something. A good two part poly can still be protected from the wet carpets by a good coat of wax.

also the paint with copper is anti-fouling. Not what I am after
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

gdcarpenter
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by gdcarpenter » Thu Feb 25, 2016 4:53 am

Perhaps you are thinking of Interlux VC Performance Epoxy. That's what my research let me to put on my ZIP. While not anti fouling per se, If I recall correctly, it's rated for up to 60 days continuous immersion.

My main concern was longevity and low maintenance, and it has exceded my expectations. Each summer my boat is in the water for about a solid month, has seen over 5,000 miles trailering, and a whole lot of launches and retrievals. all with nary a blemish.

If there was one paint that was heads above the others most would use it, but that doesn't seen to be the case. VC is 'nasty' stuff to work with, but has worked out well for me.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by Bill Edmundson » Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:29 am

VC is Super tough! It's been on the Tahoe a long time. The only failure I've had was not the paints fault. I scraped the stem on the trailer and broke through the glass a few times. After I made the repair with Dynel fabric, no more problem.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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BayouBengal
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by BayouBengal » Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:12 pm

When I built the Squirt, I decided to use Interlux Perfection. While I have no complaints about the durability of the paint, the only thinner that seemed to work with it was their specific thinning product. This added considerably to the cost of using their paint. Additionally, the paint takes longer to dry than most automotive paints and clearcoats. This led to some problems; slight sags and some dust capture. My brother, who’s a professional street rod builder and painted the final coats in his paint booth convinced me we’d get better results using automotive clearcoat. Partly because he felt it was a better product and partly because he was more used to working with it. In the end, we left the Interlux perfection black on the sides and bottom where the finish wasn’t so visible, but used automotive clearcoat on the decking of the boat. Squirt build with Automotive/Interlux finish shown below.
II at Madisonville 01.jpg
After doing some research and actually working with some sample pieces, I decided to use SystemThree LPU on my present build. While I’ve not had my boat in the water, others can attest that the durability is satisfactory. I also painted the cabinets in my outdoor kitchen with it four years ago and it’s held up well. The paint sprays well, but probably isn’t as good a roll and tip paint as the Interlux. What I really like about the paint is that it dries extremely quick which allows you to build up coats very fast, and the convenience of water cleanup cannot be appreciated enough. Present build with SystemThree finish shown below.
Before Flip 01 - Websize.jpg
In brief, I’ve found Interlux Perfection, Automotive Paints, and SystemThree LPU will all provide an excellent finish and are durable, but there are nuances to working with each. Personally, I’m addicted to the easy water cleanup and application of the SystemThree product and it’s what I plan to keep using going forward.

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steveh41
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by steveh41 » Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:25 pm

Jeff,

Appreciate your post and the general info on this thread. I'm leaning strongly toward S3 LPU as well for the same reasons... test panels look great and the water cleanup is priceless!

Regards,

Steve
The longest journey begins with a single step… then repeat as necessary!

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gap998
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by gap998 » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:46 pm

I love the idea of water based paints. I've used them around the house indoors & am happy with the results, and my last 5 cars have had water based finishes from the factory. The last one I didn't wash for the whole year I had it - a 12 month British winter, road salt & Steel-town pollution. Flawless finish when I washed it to trade in!

Does anyone know how toxic System Three LPU is spray? Does it require an externally ventilated mask?
Gary

Planning a whole fleet, but starting with a Zip...I think.

"Just when you think you've made something idiot-proof, someone builds a better idiot!"

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steveh41
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by steveh41 » Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:22 pm

Here's an excerpt from the WR-LPU MSDS:

"... Do not ingest(!). Avoid breathing vapor or mist. If during normal use the material presents a respiratory hazard, use only with adequate ventilation or wear an appropriate respirator... "

You'll need to thin it out by maybe 20% for proper spraying.

Steve
The longest journey begins with a single step… then repeat as necessary!

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gap998
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by gap998 » Sat Feb 27, 2016 11:10 am

Sounds like a normal toxic vapour filter respirator would be sufficient (but not just a dust respirator).
Gary

Planning a whole fleet, but starting with a Zip...I think.

"Just when you think you've made something idiot-proof, someone builds a better idiot!"

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Feb 27, 2016 11:28 am

Gary

Definitely a vapor mask. The vapor is bad. But, you really don't want the mist. if you are going to spray PU you should have a positive pressure mask.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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BayouBengal
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by BayouBengal » Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:29 pm

You'll need to thin it out by maybe 20% for proper spraying.
I'm thinning to 30, but I suppose it depends on your external conditions and particular spray gun.

JimmY
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by JimmY » Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:16 am

Just to chime in here on what I'm learning (from BayouBngal, and others) is that if you are rolling and tipping (and even spraying to some extent), expect to have to sand (220) every couple of coats to re-level the paint and wet sand/polish to final coat if you want something glossly.

I'm working with the WR-LPU, and after a day drying it sands nicely and doesn't gum up the paper. It appears to harden up well, and looks like it will polish up nicely. It is not hard, but I think I was naïve to think I could roll on a showroom finish.

My $0.02
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

rleete
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by rleete » Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:13 am

Back in the day I helped my dad restore old cars. Studebakers, mostly. Well, his last one was a 1964 Avanti, and he put on over a dozen coats of lacquer. I can tell you he spent a helluva lot more time sanding than spraying.

He had professional grade equipment, and by this point knew very well how to use it. Even so, there is no way to get a good, shiny finish without lots of sanding. Not to mention cutting, buffing and polishing...

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Let's demystify some of these boat finishes

Post by DrBryanJ » Fri Apr 07, 2017 12:17 pm

I am leaning towards S3 LPU. I have never sprayed anything, so I plan on rolling and tipping. Do I understand that you guys are recommending to do two coats then sand. Then do 2 more coats and sand. And finally one or two more coats and sand, then clear?
I've ordered several small bottles in different colors. With the help of my artist daughter, I'm going to try and mix the colors I want for my boat. Let you know how it goes.

Bryan
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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