Support Knowledge Base - Automotive Paints

Painting options, interior and exterior.

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Mr Hot Rod
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Support Knowledge Base - Automotive Paints

Post by Mr Hot Rod » Mon Jul 30, 2018 10:57 am

This post is another in the 'Knowledge Base' series. The intent is to create an index to useful posts which would be of general interest.

Please post any useful Paint links from other topics on the Forum or write a post to cover a particular topic.

Many builders have had excellent results with rolled and tipped marine paints and varnishes. Another option if you're spraying is to skip the marine products entirely. We've had excellent results with DuPont Imron and PPG urethane primers, sealers and topcoats. We've torture-tested these products to 80 MPH + and thousands of miles of trailering with minimal wear and tear on the paint.
Click here for more details.

Due to tighter VOC regulations, these paints are no longer available in our area, so we switched to Sherwin-Williams. Their primer-sealer and Genesis® GC/G8 Single-stage acrylic polyurethane seem to be holding up well.

Please refer to the following product's MDS Material Data Safety sheet. Use of a proper air-supplied respirator system is mandatory to prevent health issues,

(1) Paint Prep
(2) Automotive Paint
(3) Clear finishes
(4) Spray Guns : HVLP
  • Since the air pressure is considerable less than a conventional gun, more paint is applied to the substrate and less ends up as overspray, so it saves material. More paint being delivered means that proper reduction and operator technique are critical. Approved safety equipment is a must as the isocyanates used in the hardener are highly toxic and can cause serious health issues.
    Here's a link to a recent thread on HVLP equipment :

    Recommendations for an inexpensive HVLP sprayer
(5) Defoamers - Roller Application of Automotive paints
  • E-Z Roll Reducer, Urethane Defoamer provides a better final appearance and minimizes the potential for foaming and bubbling during roller application.

    • From the DuPont Technical Manual :
    "Using minimum pressure, apply paint to vehicle in a “V” pattern. The “V” pattern will reduce “track marks” from the roller’s edge."

    See Page 3 in section titled 'Application'.
    Roller Application of 2K Primers (dupont.com) (Broken Link - Looking for a product link)
(6) Sprayers vs Rollers 05-AUG-2018
That's it for now, We'll be adding to this post at a later date, so check back later for updates.

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Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

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Last edited by Mr Hot Rod on Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:28 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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kens
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Re: Knowledge Base - Automotive Paints

Post by kens » Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:35 pm

On the subject of final wash (solvent wash), my auto body paint experience leads me to delete all solvents on the paint surface. I never used the one mentioned by OP, but my concern comes from a solvent merely spreading oils or waxes around on the surface; thin it out, yes, but get rid of it, no.
How do you get rid of the solvent along with its diluted contaminants? Wipe it with a rag? now you got a contaminated rag, rubbing that around.
My preferred method for oils or carnuba wax removal is Scotch Brite & Ajax & elbow grease & water. This is very aggressive and will abrade paint, thin rust, wash away oils, and do some amount of feathering edges. Plus, all this ajax is rinsed off with water, it leaves a clean surface. If taken seriously, scothbrite/ajax can surface to approx 260 grit.
If anybody knows of a oil, contaminate, or (carnuba)wax, that can survive a 260 grit wet sanding or a aggressive scothbrite/ajax, please post it.

Since most of us are building new, there is no oils, wax, or contaminates in the first place, so why worry? (unless mold release)
If you are dealing with silicone wax, or silicone contaminate, then all bets are off by me. I never could get past a silicone contamination, using solvents or otherwise. Silicone contamination breeds fish eyes in sprayed paint surface, and 'fish eye eliminator' sometimes cures 'fish eyes' but then it leads to its own krinklly finish. Neither one is a good surface finish.

As far as 'final finish prep' surfaces for spray painting, my favorites are in order:
1. raw bare wet sanded surface
2. raw bare scothbrite/ajax abraded with water
3. raw bare dry sanded

Solvent wash of ANY kind, to me, is a big no-no.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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