PUG

About powering boats with electricity

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thudpucker
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Re: PUG

Post by thudpucker » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:11 am

:) I caught the part about the skins.
I'm still thinking of building the Jon, but it don't look like my Health is gonna last as long as my thinking :lol:

But I'll sure enjoy more photos of your boat though.

Oyster
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Re: PUG

Post by Oyster » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:56 am

this is the hardest stitch I have ever done . we closed the bottom at the bow from a 5" gap to a 1" gap tonight. Will let it rest over night and close up tomorrow. I hope.
In this particular setup with the boomerang shape bottom panels, its fairly simply to lay the two panels together, one on top of the other and loosely stick them and then fold them out like opening a book, or so has been my witness on even a kayak type build with thin veneers.
I would think that even if you do this in the bow section to the midship, which is normally the most tedious section to pull the panels in, this would be an improvement pulling the panels closer.
Image

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psychobilly
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Re: PUG

Post by psychobilly » Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:48 am

So you just did butt joints with blocks I see. Why not scarf? Do you find one better over the other?

upspirate

Re: PUG

Post by upspirate » Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:05 am

Coming along Chip....hang in there buddy! :D

The prototype is always the toughest!! :wink: :D

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:38 pm

Thud, After rereading your post and thinking about it. I must say I over reacted :roll: :oops: it was late and I was tired. So no hard feelings. :wink: I'm sorry to hear that you are having health issues. Go ahead and build the Mr. John, believe me it will do you good. Since I started back on my projects I have regained full use of my left arm. :D the Doctors said it would take about Two months of rehab to get there. Three weeks of boat building fixed me. :D
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:45 pm

psychobilly wrote:So you just did butt joints with blocks I see. Why not scarf? Do you find one better over the other?
PB, I have done both and they both work. the plans called for butt blocks, plus trying to figure out the extra lenght of ply needed to do scarfs with the dimensional layouts was too much for my two marbles. :wink: :lol:
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:55 pm

rocking right along, we were able to finish closing the gap at the bow, plus we glued up the port side. we then sat the starboard side in place. both will be stitched on tomorrow. :D
Pug 015.jpg
Pirate, this picture is for you, how is this for totured?
Pug 018.jpg
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

upspirate

Re: PUG

Post by upspirate » Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:09 am

OWW!!! :shock:

Should be strong though when all glassed up! :D

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Fri Sep 30, 2011 9:42 pm

Houston, I have a problem :shock: I started to remove the stitch wires on the bottom and soon found out I didn't use enough thickened epoxy :(
Pug 021.jpg
plan on retrying, at least this time the panels will be preformed :D
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Oyster
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Re: PUG

Post by Oyster » Sat Oct 01, 2011 3:14 am

There is nothing wrong with using 403 thickening agent and a small tab for tacking the bow in place, as long as you confident about the shape. When you get things where you want it when its all 3d, then just tab right across the entire spots too. I know you are a perfectionist and probably would be bugged with some hump, but done right you will not have any issues here.

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:57 pm

Mike, my impatience bit me in the butt this time :shock: :roll: I knew I needed to add more thickened epoxy, but I wanted to remove the wires first. What I should have done was stop after removing the first wires and added more epoxy and then tab the front of the plywood :oops: I'll fix it and it won't happen again. :D
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

upspirate

Re: PUG

Post by upspirate » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:59 pm

I wondered if the epoxy wasn't set enough.....but then again it looks like the wood tore and splintered.

Maybe put a tab of cloth around the forward area some til you get everything tabbed on the inside

Oyster
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Re: PUG

Post by Oyster » Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:24 pm

Grand Chillin wrote:Mike, my impatience bit me in the butt this time :shock: :roll: I knew I needed to add more thickened epoxy, but I wanted to remove the wires first. What I should have done was stop after removing the first wires and added more epoxy and then tab the front of the plywood :oops: I'll fix it and it won't happen again. :D
You do know that you can tack the panels together between the wires and even tape right across the area after you pull the wires out with another thin layer of thickened epoxy and tape across it all. You can touch the areas with a sanding disc without worrying about how fancy you do it since you can just smear a thin layer across the entire seam. Of course you know all of this too, but I thought I would remind you anyway. By all means use the 403 for those tabbed areas, IMO.

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Grand Chillin
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Re: PUG

Post by Grand Chillin » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:47 pm

The B-team and I were able to pull her back together :D we traded the copper wire for steeland while not as close as before, I will live with it, but with some more thickened epoxy and some sanding no one will know :roll: I will admit it is not the neatest work I have done :oops:
Pug 022.jpg
I did use 403 this time. :wink:
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

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steve crawford
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Re: PUG

Post by steve crawford » Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:37 am

I wonder why the designers didn't incorporate those last 3''-4'' into the side panels. From the last pic. it looked like it could have worked...

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