Electric Drive

About powering boats with electricity

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upspirate

Re: Electric Drive

Postby upspirate » Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:51 pm

Did you have a blond consultant on that??LOL :wink:

Those are very pretty pics BTW

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:06 pm

OK, I have my thinking cap on now.

Upspirate, the minimum depth it would operate in is 4 feet. Been studing the same thing. Here is what I have so far: maximum draft of the pontoons 9", don't know prop size or what depth it would need to be. Something else that I thought about today, if I build a pod can the aft end be square or do I need to taper it? Here is a picture of a setup I found today, it doesn't give any details other than electric motor attached to reduction gear which is inline with drive shaft.
"Image"
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

upspirate

Re: Electric Drive

Postby upspirate » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:28 pm

I'm not an engineer,but I would guess taper it....you need flow to the prop....

Wait,are you having the prop come out of the rear of the pod like from a sailboat keel,or under the pod bottom?

I was just thinking,is the price of all the hardware(prop,shaft,log,strut....etc) worth doing this on a pond boat? not belittling the boat,or usage or pond any,but is this cost effective?

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:29 pm

Did you have a blond consultant on that??LOL


How did you know :?: There was several of them. They all had on these short white t-shirts with some orange writing on them. I think it started with a H or K. Don't really know. Maybe we should gather a special task force together to solve this mystery. :lol:

Oyster,

I haven't forgotten about you. If you don't have a helmet we will get you one. :D
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:45 pm

Grand

That is so great. I think, we'll need to barrow some grand chillin and give it a try!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:13 pm

Bill,

Barrow away!

One favor in exchange. I have made Oyster my official test pilot and he hasn't agreed yet. So here is the deal, if he doesn't agree I ask that you call for a vote from the forum to see if they agree with my choice. BTW It looks like we maybe pushing Mach 1 soon. :lol:

Chip
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:01 pm

I was just thinking,is the price of all the hardware(prop,shaft,log,strut....etc) worth doing this on a pond boat? not belittling the boat,or usage or pond any,but is this cost effective?


Upspirate,

I didn't and would not take your question as belittling anything. As you know I'm just tossing this idea around. Have looked at prices for the items you mentioned and they are expensive. Hopefully, this setup would have more thrust and run time. Thus allowing me to use the boat on the lake. Then I could take my Honey on some sunset get aways. :D
Then again if I went with a minn kota outboard. +$2,000.00
Twin 80 lb trust, that would be cut in half. +$1,000.00

The main thing is no matter which way I go it will be different. That is what I like about this band of renegades. It is your build and everyone is different. I don't care how big or small, what I respect is that they tried and hopefully finished their boat. The biggest kick I get from the Tubby Tug is when people ask me where I bought it and then the look on their faces when I tell them I built it. :D

Chip
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

upspirate

Re: Electric Drive

Postby upspirate » Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:46 am

Well,FWIW,Oyster and I were discussing your tug and we both think you did a great job on the build and details,adapting the electric,steering,etc.

I'm sure you will do a great job on the pontoon and whatever drive you use.

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:57 pm

I have stated before that I am new to this forum business. When I say your FWIW I didn't know what to think. As I was getting in my truck to head to Florida my son ask me why I was so mad and I told him, somebody called me FWIW. Thankfully he set me straight. :oops:

PS Thanks for the vote of confidence. :D
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

upspirate

Re: Electric Drive

Postby upspirate » Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:45 am

Sorry :oops: ,For What It's Worth!!!

Have a great trip...it's cold down here too....31 in Ocala at 5AM this morning :(

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Cranky Badger
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Cranky Badger » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:54 pm

upspirate wrote:...it's cold down here too....31 in Ocala at 5AM this morning :(


Since we're not even pretending to keep this thread on the rails anymore:

Chip, you're going the wrong way !
Hang a left and make a run for the border (nope, the northern one)
It's been around 6deg here (~43)

Sorry, I had to say that: it's not often (especially during the winter!) that we can say it's warmer here than Fla.
No hurricanes either!
-Brian

"Do or do not. There is no try."
- Yoda

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Grand Chillin
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Grand Chillin » Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:17 am

Brian,
If I make a left turn I will run right into the Atlantic, would need two lefts to head your way. :D Global Warming in the south, 31 in Ocala and here in South Carolina today was the hottest in five days. 50 degrees.

Alright, let me try and put this thread back on its rails.
Here is what I have so far:
36 volt motor, needs shaft and cover
controller
batteries
charger

This is what I need:
mount
drive shaft
coupler
reduction gear?
prop

At this point it looks like my biggest expense would be the drive shaft and prop.
The questions I have now are what size prop/pitch, how deep the prop needs to run and what clearance I need below the pod.
Last edited by Grand Chillin on Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Cranky Badger
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Cranky Badger » Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:21 am

:oops: :oops:
-Brian

"Do or do not. There is no try."
- Yoda

Oyster
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Re: Electric Drive

Postby Oyster » Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:42 am

Grand Chillin wrote:Brian,
If I make a left turn I will run right into the Atlantic, would need two lefts to head your way. :D Global Warming in the south, 31 in Ocala and here in South Carolina today was the hottest in five days. 50 degrees.

Alright, let me try and put this thread back on its rails.
Here is what I have so far:
36 volt motor, needs shaft and cover
controller
batteries
charger

This is what I need:
mount
drive shaft
coupler
reduction gear?
prop

At this point it looks like my biggest expense would be the drive shaft and prop.
The questions I have now are what size prop/pitch, how deep the prop needs to run and what clearance I need below the pod.

Back on track.....

For your performance specs which is more in line with making things go foward, check out prop and wheel shops and see if they have any older and bent shafts that maybe longer than what you need. Most of the time you can cut them and get a good piece out of it. Machining is the expensive part. But you will save on the materials costs and the machining is all the same if you go with the converntional setup of taper and keyway.

The other issue is the coupling end. You will need some creative engineering unless you can purchase a coupling setup that fits the small drive on the motors which is normally the case. You are not looking at something cheap in tne running gear end of the conversion. But if you are going this way, i would not short change it as you will probably be monkeying around with it down the road to improve it.

There has been some creative ways to do drive trains for air cooled engines which also would be an alternative power unit using motors from lawn mowers and their declutching setup and chain drives. I have included a shot of a Kohler conversion with a direct drive shaft. We used a bilge pump and cooled the exhaust which is another issue if you go inboard gas engine.

For an off the shelf setup bolt on there is an engine thats sold and used in the swamps, the Go Devil engines.

http://www.godevil.com/6.5hp_Intek_Pro.html

Your biggest issue in using anything inboard even if you convert the golf cart engine is that you do not have a centerline to install anything. Installing a power plant of anything off center with the pontoon under carriage or on one side is a challenge for steering and handling. Another issue with mounting all that dead balast on one side in one pontoon is how out of wack your boat will sit in the water. Of course you can mount the batteries in the other one in hopes that it balances the boat out. But you go wiring and switching issues too with the added length of run.
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upspirate

Re: Electric Drive

Postby upspirate » Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:10 am

I was thinking last night about this....how about using just the lower unit(foot some people call it) mounted solid to the bottom of the pod(or one in each pontoon),with an adapter to mount the motor vertically to the shaft.

You could use the reversing stuff in the lower unit and they would be cheaper than inboard hardware

You could use twin rudders similar to the type on a hobie cat sailboat with a tiebar....this would probably be cheaper to buy used or to make than the inboard hardware and rudder.

Here's an old lower unit being used: page 4

http://www.vintageprojects.com/boats/motor-board.pdf

Another page2 :

http://www.vintageprojects.com/boats/little-boat.pdf

An electric motor could be used, and you wouldn't need the cooling.

I was also thinking that I couldn't see any problem cutting a hole in the bottom to fit the unit with the cav plate up flush to the bottom with bolts through the plate as a flange.

Not sure,but I think this would have to be reversed through the unit instead of reversing the motor as the lower would ratchet if the drive shaft was reversed to change direction.


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