ceiling & gussett question
Moderators: Bill Edmundson, billy c
ceiling & gussett question
Hi Everybody!
Here's the next questions for you all. I'm completing the floor on my Barrelback. Getting ready to work on the ceilings? (walls) in the cockpit area. Do most of you attach the interior wall planking directly to the frames, or do you build a structure that is attached to the frames and then the planking to it?
I am also thinking about trimming the gussets in the cockpit area so that the wall planking goes straight to the floor instead of angling out at the bottom following the angle of the gussets that are on the frames. Seems like at this point with deck beams etc. that the part of the gusset that is not against the frame is not all that important.
As always, your suggestions and opinions are appreciated.
Jim
Here's the next questions for you all. I'm completing the floor on my Barrelback. Getting ready to work on the ceilings? (walls) in the cockpit area. Do most of you attach the interior wall planking directly to the frames, or do you build a structure that is attached to the frames and then the planking to it?
I am also thinking about trimming the gussets in the cockpit area so that the wall planking goes straight to the floor instead of angling out at the bottom following the angle of the gussets that are on the frames. Seems like at this point with deck beams etc. that the part of the gusset that is not against the frame is not all that important.
As always, your suggestions and opinions are appreciated.
Jim
Re: ceiling & gussett question
Hi Jim
I used the frames. you may have to add a false frame member at the cockpit edges if you want to stop the ceiling at the end of the cockpit. I found the gussets on the Belle were hidden by the seating. I would not cut into them. When conditions get rough on the water and you are pounding thru the waves,you will be thankful It is a full plate holding together that butted joint
I used the frames. you may have to add a false frame member at the cockpit edges if you want to stop the ceiling at the end of the cockpit. I found the gussets on the Belle were hidden by the seating. I would not cut into them. When conditions get rough on the water and you are pounding thru the waves,you will be thankful It is a full plate holding together that butted joint
Re: ceiling & gussett question
Thanks Billy,
I get so focused on the next step, I didn't stop to think that the seats might just cover the gussets. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and check when I get home. I can still go flat on the ceilings and just go around the gussets. Thanks getting me to think further ahead.
Jim
I get so focused on the next step, I didn't stop to think that the seats might just cover the gussets. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and check when I get home. I can still go flat on the ceilings and just go around the gussets. Thanks getting me to think further ahead.
Jim
Re: ceiling & gussett question
One of the things I have been wondering is how to keep water from getting trapped between the gussets. Do they need drain holes or should a piece of ply the thickness of the cockpit sole be put down between them so that water cannot collect there.
Re: ceiling & gussett question
hoodman wrote:One of the things I have been wondering is how to keep water from getting trapped between the gussets. Do they need drain holes or should a piece of ply the thickness of the cockpit sole be put down between them so that water cannot collect there.
Matt I just encapsulated it. water can drain easily between it and the sole
Re: ceiling & gussett question
Jim; Just yesterday I completed the ceiling structure(??) on my Gentry. Here are some pics of my process. Everything is now removed for finishing.
Re: ceiling & gussett question
And one more (frustrating 3 attachment rules!
Doug
Doug
- Bill Edmundson
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Re: ceiling & gussett question
Why not just cut a wedge and fill in between the gussets?
Bill
Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Re: ceiling & gussett question
On my Tahoe, I only cut 1 pair of gussets, ahead of the rear seat. The next forward pair were covered by my seat bases. The pair ahead of that, I covered with Dek-King same as the floor. I will try to post a pic of the covered ones next. Stand by......
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Re: ceiling & gussett question
The first pic is of the covered gusset. The second pic, you can't see anything, but the gusset was cut back in order for the Dek King to overlay, and cut back for the upholstery panel. I don't know if it's taboo to cut them or not, but I had to in order for things to be right. Time will tell.
Re: ceiling & gussett question
Thanks Everyone!
You all have been so helpful! The pics really help.
On my boat, it looks like the front seat will cover the gusset, the gusset in the rear seat area will be 3-4 inches in front of the rear seat. I think I will put a wedge in the hole and then cover the gusset that is exposed and the one under the dash with mahogany veneer so it looks finished and then work around them with the ceiling planks.
Now I have a question on the ceiling planks. I was thinking of two ways to go. Mill mahogany down to 3/8" and use that for the planks, or use 1/4 okuma plywood with a 1/8 mahogany veneer (might be more stable) . Does 3/8" thickness sound ok? I am leaning toward the solid mahogany because of less work and I will have a nice edge when I cut the holes used for storage. I attached a pic of the storage hole, and the look I am after.
I think I am driving myself nuts with all these details. (just noticed they don't have a crazy emogie)
Jim
You all have been so helpful! The pics really help.
On my boat, it looks like the front seat will cover the gusset, the gusset in the rear seat area will be 3-4 inches in front of the rear seat. I think I will put a wedge in the hole and then cover the gusset that is exposed and the one under the dash with mahogany veneer so it looks finished and then work around them with the ceiling planks.
Now I have a question on the ceiling planks. I was thinking of two ways to go. Mill mahogany down to 3/8" and use that for the planks, or use 1/4 okuma plywood with a 1/8 mahogany veneer (might be more stable) . Does 3/8" thickness sound ok? I am leaning toward the solid mahogany because of less work and I will have a nice edge when I cut the holes used for storage. I attached a pic of the storage hole, and the look I am after.
I think I am driving myself nuts with all these details. (just noticed they don't have a crazy emogie)
Jim
- Bill Edmundson
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Re: ceiling & gussett question
Jim
On the Tahoe, I used 3/16 (4mm) Okumne for ceilings. On the Bartender I'm using 1/4 it's what I have. Tahoe was bright. The Bartender is paint.
Bill
On the Tahoe, I used 3/16 (4mm) Okumne for ceilings. On the Bartender I'm using 1/4 it's what I have. Tahoe was bright. The Bartender is paint.
Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Re: ceiling & gussett question
JIm... I used 3/8" solid mahogany boards for the ceilings. I put a slight rounded edged on each piece and then butted them up to each other. They are flexible enough to make the interior curves. I did put the ceiling boards on over 1/4" ply.
Re: ceiling & gussett question
Thanks everyone! With all of your ideas and pictures this is what I ended up doing. I found that the gussets weren't as big a problem as I anticipated. Turns out when I extended out the floor, they were only at most an inch higher than the floor level, so I trimmed the gussets and they became part of the support for the flooring. I will plug and cover the gussets under the dash with mahogany veneer and leave them exposed. The pictures below show a gusset before and after the trim.
Jim
Jim
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