Glen-L.com

Jamie,
We were thinking of that, and not yet ruled it out, but might be a problem scooping water when in reverse. I also think it would be just a little too "retro" as there is something about those twin exhausts out the back of a classic transom that we don't want to loose. It will be a great place to hide the twin bilge drain plugs though.

We'd do a stainless insert if it were to also serve as the exhaust, but it think it will end up being "phantomed" and painted with the bottom paint.

Don't remember seeing it anywhere, but wouldn't doubt if it's been done before. Just seemed like common sense to us. We plan on making a multi purpose center rear cleat that could lift the boat, pull a skier, secure the boat to the dock, and serve as the swim step handle for skinny dippers.

I hope we can flip it still this summer. Need to drill the prop/rudder holes before we can glass but the drop strut is back ordered which is holding us up.
We plan to do the flip with just us two guys after glassing.
I love dreaming.
Hope you're having as much fun with your project as we are.

Grampa Steve

Re the discussion on plywood frames versus solid lumber. we have been building marine grade mahogany plywood framed boats for nearly 30 years. Sizes range from 16' to 34'. If you choose to use this method there are some things you MUST do. The most important is to seal all exposed edges with several applications of epoxy resin. Apply resin until the edge stops absorbing it. Once the frames are produced, each one is completely encapsulated in epoxy prior to assembly. The statement that screws and nails into the edge grain of plywood do not hold well is a valid one. They don't. However in our method of construction the frames and longitudinal members are all bonded with epoxy therefore we do not rely on mechanical fasteners for structural integrity. Over this frame structure we bond on with epoxy a double plank laminated skin. This is indeed a little more labour intensive but in my opinion the end result is well worth the effort.

For a photo series on building a few different designs of our boats in this method visit the following link and click through the photo albums. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Clarion-B ... 77?sk=wall

In all honesty, if you are building a boat for the sheer joy and pleasure of working with wood and the feel of a shaving curl off a sharp plane and the associated smells then by all means follow the plans and build in the traditional manner. It has worked for a few hundred years. There is no greater satisfaction than building a beautiful wooden boat.

Dwight

Dwight,

Thanks for the confirmation on the plywood frames and the fact I don't need to somehow replace them if we want a lake worthy boat!
Clarion boats has served as an excellent example of how amazingly classic boats can be "new" too, and an inspiration which we hope to follow.
Keep up the good work.

Grampa Steve

Some more progress.
We've glassed the bottom and used that surface as a test to see how our finish will hopefully look.
On to the topsides.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0dTVU-4QXM

The dreaded "flip".
I know..... no where near OSHA approved.
Levitation method. Just needs one guy in flip flops;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5RyaUzhSwQ

Okay Steve.......you gotta give us a few more clues as to how that was done!
Doug

Pretty simple really, just a big cheap rotisserie.
One of our family mottos is "work smarder not harder" lol
Also helps to get the surfaces in a better position to work on them.
We started fiber glassing the tops sides. Sure glad we don't have to lay on our backs;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUsqcCLkXGQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfyP0AF0mzU

Finishing the brightsides. Only polish and wax and that step's done.
Not bad for our first try if I do say so myself!
Ok, I know we do things differnt, but who follows instructions anyway?.
We call it "Reverse Negative" Epoxy Encapsulation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKEXssShRME

Hey guys,
We 're getting ready to paint the bottom gloss black...gulp.
This boat will spend most of it's time out of the water so anti fowling wont be necessary.
I wasn't able to find enough info through the search feature here.
Any recommendations of what to use or not to use would be greatly appreciated.
I'm thinking a two part urethane?
Thanks for your help.

Grampa Steve

Steve the sides look great if you dont have to have gloss for the bottom go with a good quality teflon it will be a satin finish and take a little longer to dry but once its cured out you will just about never scratch it off all the big paint companies have a teflon ppg, akzo noble (inter lux) axxon martenz if you do have to have the gloss black (witch i completely understand) the polyurathane will be fine any of the major brands but keep in mind the carpeted bunks will wear it off quicker than you might think

Thanks Red,
Looks like we'll be using one of the poly urethane marine gloss paint brands such as Interlux unless we get major warnings to the contrary.
We should be drilling the prop shaft hole first though. Looks like we'll be doing that soon.

Grampa Steve

Not a very clear video pic this time, but the rudder and prop shaft holes are drilled.
How did you guys seal the inside of your prop shaft holes?
So far ours is encapsulated with epoxy, but I bet it needs something better than that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uunjPdA_RI

Bottom paint, fist coat;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G23bGlrFnwE

That is one slick bottom! Beautifull workmanship.... YOu are getting closer to the really fun stuff.

Thanks for the compliment Oyster. It gets even slicker with each coat. We'll sand with #400w/d and apply the third one tomorrow.

I think we're getting closer to the really expensive stuff lol.