Glen-L.com

Im nearing the time to apply the mahogany layer. I'm looking for sage advice from others who have done this before. Suggestions?

Thanks

Robert

Hi Robert.

I made some long strips of cardboard to see where the side strakes would go. (a "strake" is a single row of planks running end to end)

Generally, on these hulls, strakes made from straight planks will have a tendency to "swoop" up at the bow and stern. If you want to use straight planks, play around with the cardboard to find the pleasing lines.

The other way is to create the perception of level planks. This will involve a lot more cutting. At the location of each frame, divide the distance between sheer and chine into even increments for the number of strakes you want. (the classic mahogany runabouts had five strakes) Then use a batten to mark the smooth line from bow to stern, and transfer that to your wood. The planks will look crazy on the workbench, but be nice and smooth and even on the hull. Much more work. I wish I had understood this approach before I used the straight plank approach.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

This may help a bit:

Here is a plank tacked in place against the prior one.
I used a compass to draw the line from the plank above onto the new part.


I then trimmed to the line and tacked it back in place using alignment marks.


A little jig for my trim router to follow the prior plank and cut 1/2 the depth into the new plank provided a relief line to plane too and smoothed the bumps. All final fitting was made pretty snug.


That gave me a smooth line to follow here to trim with the small block plane


I then refit the top edge and adjusted with the block plane and trimmed the bottom to match lines on the hull.


Here is a full strake on the bench

Not sure if this helps clear things up.

_________________
Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

Perfect description Bob!

_________________
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

OK, so where should I start?
I've read that people start with the bootstripe/waterline and line off of that.
I've also measured a bit and I'm about 31 1/4 inches at the widest section to about 21 inches at the bow.
If I'm using 5 boards i'm almost 6 1/4 inchs wide. While my stock is about that wide, I may want to add a 6th board to
not have excessive waste?
I liked the laminate edge trimmer, I'll "borrow" that idea.

Robert

I have 7 planks on the sides of my Monte carlo. I started at the bow because that would be the widest piece I would need. It was 8 inches. The longer your planks are the wider the pieces you will need. If you were to use shorter lengths at the bow then you could use narrower pieces overall. I wanted the planks to appear to the eye that they are straight and they do. my finished peices averaged 3 3/4 in width. some places they were more. At the bow my total distance was 23 inches. I dont remember the widest section but I think it was about 33 inches. But that was because of the barrel back. in the middle of the boat it was about 30 inches. I drew all the lines on the boat where the planks would lie prior to cutting any materials so I would know what they would look like. Its a lot of extra work but I felt it was worth it.

_________________
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

Now that I'm looking at the picture - I had 7 planks.

Mine are an the same width at each frame.
Do divide each frame using math is a pain (and not necessary)
I found this:
http://lumberjocks.com/mattd/blog/11897

Look at the diminishing device - that is how you divide each frame evenly w/o math.
Use Paper tape to pick up the length of the frame.
Then match the end points to the outer lines and mark the planks on the tape
transfer to the hull

if you are really lucky - both sides of the hull match perfect

Leave a little extra on the sheer strake. Your rub rail is going to take up some of that space - so you don't want a skinny plank.

Once you have all the marks - use a long batten - connect the dots. I used a micro pinner to hold the batten and made sure the line was fair. Don't JUST connect the dots. Once you start, you will see.

Plank from Chine to Sheer of course.

_________________
Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

Good info Bob. I divided by 7 and used MM. Your method looks easier.

_________________
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

Bob:

You mentioned the Micro pinner and I looked it up as to what it was.
Can you tell me how you used it? I assume that it takes the place of
staples, but I dont understand if you pull the pins as you would staples
after the epoxy has cured.

Also I was wondering if you had any additional photos
of the jig you build for the trim router. I'm just getting ready!

I'm finishing up the bottom laminations. I was wondering in the flat area's did you use
strips running with the Keel or just the largest sheet you could vacuum bag?
I want to use large pieces near the stern where its really pretty flat.

Robert

I used the micropinner on the batten for lining off the hull, that way the nails didn't split it. An 18G nailer may work as well - but I had the smaller gauge gun. My batten was 1/2" x 1" (I think) - you want the batten to be somewhat stiff so that the line is fair. A floppy batten will make for a wavy line. I then pulled the pins or trimmed them from the batten.



I'll take a look - I may even have the jig someplace.



I stayed with the 6" strips on the flat area.. mostly because I had then milled up. But secondly, just in case I trapped an air bubble under a large panel. I'm not sure if that can happen with all the vacuum.. If I were to do it again.. I probably would have went with 1' wide strips instead of 6" to make it go quicker..

Now post some pics!

_________________
Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

OK Bob here you go, a link to the picasa web album of the build so far.

Thanks again for ALL your help

Robert

https://picasaweb.google.com/107943171039831524272/BarrelbackBoatBuilding?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMvR_ubxouHxFA&feat=directlink

Looking great. Oh, I remember those days well. Vacuum packing is time consuming but definitely insures no voids

_________________
Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Nice pics!

I wish I had that much space to work in. I have a good sized shop - but it was tight with the boat in it.
Keep 'em coming!
Bob

_________________
Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

Very nice Robert! I sure wish someone would write an article for the Glen-L blog about their experiences with vacuum bagging. (not-so-subtle hint)

_________________
Gayle Brantuk
Vice President
Glen-L Marine
Visit our Blog & Create Your Own!

yes Bob please do

_________________
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.