Tahoe 23

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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Aussie
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:31 pm
Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Aussie » Wed Apr 03, 2019 1:17 am

Tony/Alan,

Thanks for the info.

Alan,

I thought that was the go, need to have a think about rego and maybe no’s. Maybe 427 Belle?

Thanks Jamie

Ozzieboat
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Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:40 am
Location: Logan, Queensland, Australia

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Ozzieboat » Wed Apr 03, 2019 4:33 am

Jamie
Unfortunately you can't have a custom rego, has to be standard format. Letter, letter, number, number, number, Q. I had a few attempts, but managed to get GW177Q, very happy with that. Maybe BI427Q or GL427Q. Still looking for the ABP maker.

Ozzieboat
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Location: Logan, Queensland, Australia

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Ozzieboat » Wed Apr 03, 2019 4:32 pm

Jamie and Tony
ABP maker is metalsignlabel.com.au
Alan

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Aussie
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Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Aussie » Sat Apr 06, 2019 3:02 am

Thanks Alan.

Tony Hain
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:01 pm
Location: Queensland Australia

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Tony Hain » Sun Apr 14, 2019 4:35 pm

Well I have been working towards the engine mounting. Looked into my options for moving and lifting the motor. I ruled out an engine lifting crane as it would not give me the height clearance I required. Ruled out using the shed trusses as I wasn't sure they would handle the load and last thing I wanted was the roof, engine coming crashing down especially through the bottom of the boat. So that left me with a movable gantry. Priced the steel and cost of getting it welded up and found it was cheaper to get a new 1 tonne (1000kg) one and at the end would have a shop bought one that I could sell for a lot more than a home made one. So it cost me $699 Aus. I think it is worth it as I imagine in the early stages I will be lifting the motor in and out a few times.
Next I wanted to check on the positon of the engine and engine mounts when aligned to the shaft. Especially checking over-all heights for hatch clearance and clearance of sump and sump drain hose to the keel and frames. To do this I made up a jig that would give me length of motor, shaft alignment and engine mounts. This seemed also an easier way to check on clearance of frames than test fitting the motor. The end result is that the engine is sitting about 2" (50mm) higher than I would of liked. I may have to modify the hatch. I may be able to get it down another inch (25mm) but we will see. The things that might of got it down further are prop shaft angle and prop shaft hole but I am not going to try and change those now so I will live with what I have.
Next will be a test fit of the motor directly. I am waiting on a pair of spreader bars a friend is making up for me so that when lifting the motor the chains from the engine lifting hooks don't squeeze in on the motor and damage anything. A couple of photos below.
Question: The exhaust from the motor is a little over 4" OD. What size will I reduce the exhaust system down to. 3 1/2"?
Attachments
P1010919.JPG
engine jig
P1010918.JPG
Jig to determine motor position
P1010917.JPG
1 tonne adjustable height gantry
Tony Hain
"Never under-estimate the bounds of human stupidity" (Robert Heinlein)
and on a more optimistic note "nor the capacity for human brilliance"

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Aussie
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:31 pm
Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Aussie » Sat Apr 20, 2019 4:39 pm

Looking good Tony.

Get a move on and you may be ready for a gathering!

That gantry will also be great to assist with lifting onto a trailer.

I ended up getting my motor sitting very low so don’t have the issue of the room against hatch, although I did put extra camber in the deck frames to assist with room, also gives a more pleasing look as the deck in my view was too flat.
Attachments
01376E77-3377-4E22-94EA-D8D0A08BE811.jpeg

Brian
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Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Brian » Sun Apr 21, 2019 1:20 am

Just looking for the appropriate place to ask a question about engine hatch design. Each half is hinged with SS continuous hinge. Got that. But each half is also trimmed with matching width SS band, both ends and the center. Is this just screwed to the perimeter to hide the butt ends of the hatch on top? Butts to the hinge?

Second, many boats have a pair of classic raised hatch rails, which I assume are used both to lift the hatches and as grab rails when moving across the deck. Does anyone know where you can get these? I have not seen them on any of the usual classic hardware sites.

Third, what options are there for latching? Is it possible to not have a latch, but just use recessed lifting handles? With the hatch at the CG of the boat, it seems like the hatches wouldn't bounce, even without a latch. For a latch, one side has to be secured so the latch will have something solid to latch to. A twist handle that operates rods that go into receiver holes in the fore/aft bulkheads would seem to be the best, but I haven't found any such thing.

Appreciate the help with this, and any pics anyone may have of their hatch treatment.

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Aussie
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Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Aussie » Sun Apr 21, 2019 1:58 am

Sorry to fail road your post Tony.

Brian,
If you go over to Power Boats under
Aussie Belle you will see my hatch that is rounded and hinges from the rear on concealed hinges and 2 x flush lift rings
Attachments
BEA69420-5ADA-471D-8DFB-2A96434F2FD6.jpeg
985BA9E7-1108-466E-A934-E6CD6CB0309D.jpeg
984943DF-7228-4413-AD04-99182ACF62C5.jpeg

Brian
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Location: Hawaii

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Brian » Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:00 am

Thanks "Aussie", nice pics and great workmanship. I notice you are using a flush mount ski tow in the transom. A couple of words of caution. Towing from the transom is not a great idea, as the transom is not usually a structural member designed for that. One of the builders at Sierra Boat (the wood boat guru's in California) told me of a beautiful boat with a ski tow like that, which ripped the entire transom off! Second, a pylon is a much better choice from a skier's perspective. If you are just towing tubes, probably not a problem, but with a low tow point, the rope is usually in and out of the water, which makes it hard on the arms and can snag the rope on the wake when crossing. If I were you, I would keep the flush tow where you have it, but limit its use. I'm looking for a removable pylon, hiding the aft deck hole with a matching wood plug. Haven't found one I like yet. After all the work you've put into the Belle, I'd hate to have you pull that fitting out...or worse!

As far as the engine hatch, mine is 4'X4' and I intend to split it in half for a traditional opening. I'll probably use gas lifts. I think I can resolve the latching with flush cam latches on one and a twist latch on the other. Now that I'm building it, I think I see the answer to my question. The bands around the perimeter hide the framing so you can butt the Mahogany planks into it and cover the joint with the SS bands. I knew there had to be some logic there!

Tony Hain
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Location: Queensland Australia

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Tony Hain » Thu May 09, 2019 3:50 pm

Did a test fit of the motor and it ended up not sitting as high as I thought it would. Top of engine beds about 20mm (7/8") above the top of the stringers. May even get it down a little lower with the final fitting of engine beds as I have had to cut away two frames to make clearance of sump and shaft coupling. I re-inforce the cut away frames with pieces of angle iron bolted to the frames. Have finished the engine beds and painted them.

Before I do a fit of the engine I want to sort out the rudder, tiller arm and top bearing on the rudder post as I have to lift the back end of the boat to get the clearance to put the rudder in and then remove it again to get the keyway and maybe rudder post cut to length. So obviously I don't want the extra weight of the motor.

Am also looking at fuel tanks. Looking at a plastic tank 120 litres (32 US Gallons). It is 950x400x400mm (38x16x16inch) I will put off buying this until I have sorted the rudder and tiller. That way I'll know what clearances I have. With that tank I am more concerned about the top clearance between the tank and deck. Mainly fitting the fuel fill hose and getting enough room for tightening clamps etc.
Below are photos of the cut away frames and the painted engine bed.
Attachments
P1010926.JPG
P1010924.JPG
Tony Hain
"Never under-estimate the bounds of human stupidity" (Robert Heinlein)
and on a more optimistic note "nor the capacity for human brilliance"

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mrintense
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Re: Tahoe 23

Post by mrintense » Fri May 10, 2019 5:26 am

Nice looking work Tony. I think you gantry logic makes sense. When I saw the painted engine bed, I had to do a double take because it looks similar to my posted photo from a few weeks ago showing my painted aft bilge area. I think white is a good choice for bilges as it makes it very easy to see anything that ends up down there.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Tony Hain
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:01 pm
Location: Queensland Australia

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Tony Hain » Fri May 10, 2019 11:05 am

Yes Carl. That was my logic. The only down side is that in certain areas I will have to sand back the paint so as to glue on backing blocks etc and then touch up with paint. Maybe you can epoxy on to 2 pack Poly Paint, but I would rather take it back to the epoxy sealing coat underneath.
Tony Hain
"Never under-estimate the bounds of human stupidity" (Robert Heinlein)
and on a more optimistic note "nor the capacity for human brilliance"

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Aussie
Posts: 397
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:31 pm
Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Tahoe 23

Post by Aussie » Sun Jun 23, 2019 8:02 pm

Tony,

I have been through the registration process and the Belle is now registered.

There is a form to fill out for boat registration, if you fill this in and take to the transport department and ask to be issued a HIN number they will give you one, also while you are there you can request to see if a rego number is available and they will issue this as well as a reserved number (you will have about 4 weeks to use the number) the combine is now 3 letters, 2 numbers followed by Q. I ended up with AUS19Q.

Send off for you builders plate at Metal signs.com and get your builders plate and HIN number on a plate.

I then went back in with my form and receipts with the box ticked for Builders plate attached and they registered it no worries. Was very simple, they don’t need to see boat or builders plate.

Jamie

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mrintense
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Re: Tahoe 23

Post by mrintense » Tue Jun 25, 2019 3:23 am

Tony Hain wrote:
Fri May 10, 2019 11:05 am
Yes Carl. That was my logic. The only down side is that in certain areas I will have to sand back the paint so as to glue on backing blocks etc and then touch up with paint. Maybe you can epoxy on to 2 pack Poly Paint, but I would rather take it back to the epoxy sealing coat underneath.
Yes, I tried to anticipate where I might bond and left those areas unpainted, but I am sure I missed somewhere and over compensated in others! :D :D
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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