Norwegian Barrelback 20'

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Bluesman
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Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:35 am
Location: LeClaire, IA

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Bluesman »

No matter what you'll have to "spile" the planking to get it to match up, this takes some work with scribe and trim methods. Search the internet for some videos.

The other thing is that in the bow areas you'll be laying a flat piece over a concave surface so be sure to apply a LIBERAL amount of epoxy adhesive or you'll have a void behind the veneer.
Tahoe - 21' under construction

LeClaire, IA - Birthplace of "Buffalo" Bill Cody and home of the American Pickers on The History Channel

neel thompson
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Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by neel thompson »

Thomas, Your lines look good, but you might consider raking the planks up slightly from the transom forward. You have drawn them parallel to the W/L which will look fine but, if you look at the antique Chris Crafts, you will see what I mean. The planking on the bottom follows the chine and then the side planking goes up a little as it goes from transom to bow. Look at some pictures. Also it makes things a lot easier when drawing your plank lines on the hull if you use a laser level. I put vertical lines on the hull sides about every 2 feet. then I used the flattest paret of the hull, near the center, and divided the lines so I had five planks, 5" wide. Then connect the marks going forward and aft with the laser and make marks on the hull as you go. When you have it marked, connect all dots using a long batten. I will attach a picture of my hull with the lines drawn to give you an idea. The blue tape is the waterline. Your build looks great... Neel
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20200724_161756.jpg

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Jimbob »

Here are some pictures I took of original boats that show how planking was done.
Jim
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PB090080.JPG
P8080002.JPG
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Jimbob
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Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Jimbob »

Here are some pictures of how I did the planking on my boat.
The first thing that I did was to make marks at each frame dividing the distance between the bottom of the boat to the top of the boat equally at each frame for six planks. The widths will be different at each frame point.The next thing that I did was to get some screen molding, and tack it so the top of the molding lined up with each mark I made above at each frame point. It will form a nice smooth curve. I drew a line for where each of the 6 planks would go using the molding. The butt joints for each plank were made at a frame position, using sort of a "brick" pattern. Hope this helps.
Jim
Attachments
If you enlarge the pic you can see the vertical blue chalk lines where the plank butt joints will go.
If you enlarge the pic you can see the vertical blue chalk lines where the plank butt joints will go.
20150131_165941.jpg
20150131_151154.jpg
Last edited by Jimbob on Sat Sep 12, 2020 11:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Jimbob
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Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Jimbob »

This is how it turned out. I had to do a lot of spiling to get tight fits between the planks. I didn't use any filler in any gaps because I wanted the individual planking to be seen like on the original boats.
Jim
Attachments
20181005_155355.jpg
20181005_155405.jpg
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Thomas H
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:52 am
Location: Norway

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Thomas H »

Thank you so much for all the feedback guys - I appreciate it. You all have amazing looking builds!

Bluesman,
I've been starting to look into the different techniques for the spiling, I think the router-version is the most tempting so far.
Noted on the epoxy. I will be vacuum bagging the mahogany, so the chances of getting voids should be relatively small if I do things well.

Neel,
I have been debating with myself prior to posting this regarding sweeping the planking as you mention. I am aware as you point out that this is done on the old CC's and many others. I will look a bit more into it and maybe draw some alternative lines, starting at the chine, to see how I feel about it. I know it's against tradition but I sort of feel that the curves (looking straight from the side) flow better if I use the WL as the starting point, but again I guess this comes down to personal taste in the end.
If I understand you correctly, you took the "flattest" frame as the starting point, divided it into 5" planks and made all planks go vertical from there? You didn't divide the height at each frame?

Jim,
Thanks for the pictures. On your build then, it sounds like you did it like I have been thinking, but starting at the chine rather than the waterline when dividing the heights. When you divided the height at each frame in equal parts, did you measure along the hull/frame, or did you use a "vertical projection" of the frame at that point?

Thomas H
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Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:52 am
Location: Norway

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Thomas H »

I made another illustration where I have used the chine as the starting point for the planks. Also divided the vertical height into 5 at each frame. This of course makes it sweep up in the front, but I guess the back won't really sweep up until the length along the barrel shape is divided into equal parts, rather than the projected height.
Attachments
Veneers-side_from Chine.PNG

neel thompson
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Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by neel thompson »

Thomas, Yes, I drew a vertical, plumb line from chine to sheer near the center of the hull (where there was very little curve). I wanted the planks to be 5" wide at this point, which happened to coincide with dividing by 6. Then I took my laser level, set it so the light passed through a mark on the vertical line, cocked it sightly to rake it up at the bow. Other vertical lines were drawn on the hull sides two feet apart. I then went to each vertical and put a mark where the laser hit it. Then I stood on my head and looked at it. All was well.

I think if you use your latest drawing, you will be almost exactly following the original Chris Crafts. Nice

Thomas H
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Location: Norway

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Thomas H »

Thanks again Neel. I’ll most likely go for the last one - have to think a bit more about it. My mahogany is around 12” wide, so will probably go for 6 planks as well so that I don’t waste too much of it.

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Jimbob
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Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Jimbob »

In answer to your questions and more:
I measured from the chine to the top of the boat when I divided my sections for the planking. Where the butt joints were I made them follow the frames underneath, so they would be perpendicular to the water line. My thought was that when they built the original boats, the planks would have to be screwed into the frames. Your drawings look good. Some guys don't spile the planks and let then run against the previous plank. That causes the planking to raise up in the front looking somewhat like a viking boat.

It Took me a while to remember how I did it all, but here goes. I was afraid to use the router method because things can get screwed up quickly if something goes wrong. With a sharp block plane it goes very quickly when trimming the planks. When you decide how many planks, you will want to decide on a width that will work with the available material and your resaw height limitations. You will need to start with a wider board to allow for spiling. Whatever method you decide on, I would suggest drawing the plank lines on the boat first.
1. I tacked the first plank slightly proud of the chine. Then I used my molding to mark a line on that first plank. I used spacers with the molding so my compass had something to "ride" on. After I got my mark, I shaped the plank using a sharp block plane and a long board sander. I would then hold the plank on the boat checking my trimming to make sure it followed the line exactly. The plank was still slightly proud of the chine. I flush trimmed it to the chine after the epoxy set.
2. The second plank was tacked in place, and the curve of the first was marked onto it and then it was shaped to insure a tight fit.
the bottom of the second was marked using the molding and spacers. From then on it was the same process over and over. One plank run at a time. When I came to a butt joint I cut it not at 90 degrees, but in line with my frame line.
The raptor composite brad gun works great for tacking things in place and removing easily.
Hope all of this helps.
Jim
Attachments
Got this compass at woodcraft for marking.  Worth the money.
Got this compass at woodcraft for marking. Worth the money.
Bottom of second plank marked and ready for trim. Notice the butt joint in alignment with blue frame line.
Bottom of second plank marked and ready for trim. Notice the butt joint in alignment with blue frame line.
Notice the spacers placed on the lines.
Notice the spacers placed on the lines.
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Thomas H
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:52 am
Location: Norway

Re: Norwegian Barrelback 20'

Post by Thomas H »

Thanks for the thorough explanation Jim, it definitely helps. Good to see that different people are using different ways to get to a great looking boat. I agree that the router might add a higher risk to the picture, so will consider that - especially since my mahogany is so thin (2.5mm)

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