Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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tcough
Posts: 157
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:30 pm
Location: Panama City, FL

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby tcough » Thu Aug 11, 2016 8:00 pm

Though I've only completed the hull, I think the sheet count is accurate. I'm building the 19'-9" version, and so far, I've used 12 sheets, with left over pieces from the bow area. I did use 1/4" sheets laminated in the bottom bow area, but 1/2" sheets in the middle/rear area of the bottom to save some time. Like Kelly, I plan on using those in other places to beef up my build as I'm a big boy as well.
Happy Boating,
Tracy

Building a 19'-9" Flats Flyer

Ranny
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:01 pm
Location: Lake Monticello, VA

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Ranny » Fri Aug 12, 2016 12:09 pm

Great point about having zero soft spots. I know when I used to sail on big boats, the first question when I came on board was "Where can I step?" Because I fish a lot off my dock, all my rod holders and cleats are the flush mount kind. Four years and zero broken toes :D
Ranny

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specialk
Posts: 480
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:53 pm
Location: Columbia, SC

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby specialk » Sat Aug 13, 2016 7:53 am

Ranny , I have learned over the years... I don't sit in wicker furniture... I can't walk on a single 2x10 scaffold board, and do not ever fish in a boat with soft spots... all of these if videotaped would have made me a rich man...!

Having a bad day at work so I thought, I would finally figure out how to upload my Flyer Flip to YouTube... please check it out...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwH5S_mXbZw
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

Rollbar
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:33 pm

specialk wrote:Tcough
I am putting two layers of 1/4" on the bottom.. so I did the bottom first ..so I could use the chine as my straight edge... and then belt sand to it...then the side, let it run long ..top and bottom...I have a dewalt jigsaw that will cut angles both ways..than belt sand to the bottom layer ... I am now putting the last layer on the bottom... My thought to this is.. I am locking all plywood layer's together..only the last bottom layer edge is exposed...Ok hope that helped a little... Kelly


Still reviewing your post and came across this.
Question, when you applied the two layers of 1/4" for the bottom, did you epoxy/seal the first 1/4" first layer/bottom then add the seconds with fiberglass? Like the idea of two layers.
Also, with the fasteners, can't one use stainless steel screws etc instead of the bronze?
Thanks,
Jim

Rollbar
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:50 pm

specialk wrote:Ok I am posting this Pic.. by special request...for Travis24....shop truck 66 ford and my wood shop...


Nice '66 !

Here's my '65 F250, 352v8, 3spd, 4:10, 99k for $250,00. Not finished yet but getting there. It was sitting under a Oak tree for 15yrs. New everything almost. It was rough.
Image
Last edited by Rollbar on Thu Jul 20, 2017 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Rollbar
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:59 pm

jprice wrote:I guess it's a little late for this method, now that you've already glassed. But I glassed the transom first, then built up the roundover with some thickened epoxy, filed it flush, then glassed over the bottom.
taransom glass.png


Image

I suppose another option now would be to build it up with several strips of fiberglass, then file/sand it flush to form the crisp edge.


Question, why not have a rounded chine? Air boats use the rounded chine to help them slide but since there is an outboard on the back is a hard chine really needed?

Sorry for all the questions, building some knowledge because I'm thinking about the 16' Scooter build.
Thanks,

Rollbar
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Thu Jul 20, 2017 5:15 pm

Image

What did you paint the hull with on the inside and when you glassed the deck, did you use one 6oz layer or ?

Thanks again,

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Ibrew2be
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:52 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Ibrew2be » Thu Jul 20, 2017 6:54 pm

Rollbar:
To address two of the questions you raised above:

Silicon bronze screws are preferred to stainless steel for marine applications because stainless, in certain circumstances, is subject to corrosion. In order to be corrosion resistant, stainless steel needs to be exposed to oxygen, to maintain the chromium oxide coating in the alloy. If a screw is buried in wood and under paint etc., it doesn't have the needed exposure to oxygen and it can begin to corrode. The same is not true with bronze, hence it is the better choice.

The reason for having a sharp edge at the transom is to prevent porpoising. The way I like to think of it is that a rounded edge makes it easier for the boat to rock back and forth, creating the porpoising effect. So what builders typically do is round over the edge at the chine to aid in adhesion of the fiber glass to the wood, then build up a sharp edge at the transom afterwards, as shown in the diagram.

Barry
Barry Shantz

Imp built and launched. Thinking hard about Boat 2.0

Rollbar
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Thu Jul 20, 2017 7:02 pm

Ibrew2be wrote:Rollbar:
To address two of the questions you raised above:

Silicon bronze screws are preferred to stainless steel for marine applications because stainless, in certain circumstances, is subject to corrosion. In order to be corrosion resistant, stainless steel needs to be exposed to oxygen, to maintain the chromium oxide coating in the alloy. If a screw is buried in wood and under paint etc., it doesn't have the needed exposure to oxygen and it can begin to corrode. The same is not true with bronze, hence it is the better choice.

The reason for having a sharp edge at the transom is to prevent porpoising. The way I like to think of it is that a rounded edge makes it easier for the boat to rock back and forth, creating the porpoising effect. So what builders typically do is round over the edge at the chine to aid in adhesion of the fiber glass to the wood, then build up a sharp edge at the transom afterwards, as shown in the diagram.

Barry


Ok thank you very much for the information. :mrgreen:
I didn't know either of those answers. Knowledge is wonderful to have.

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specialk
Posts: 480
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:53 pm
Location: Columbia, SC

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby specialk » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:11 pm

Rollbar...your question about the 1/4 inch plywood ..I was very generous with epoxy when I glued down the first sheet...and when I glued the second sheet down I totally covered the area with slow setting epoxy. ..I used about 5 to 6 gallons of epoxy on my build...I did encapsulate the entire inside of my flats flyer with epoxy...
The paint on the inside is 2 part epoxy paint...it is hard to work with...I used disposable brushes and rollers...

I use silicon bronze.... this boat lives most of it life in shallow saltwater...and when you mix several different kinds of metals you can get electrolysis...as you build...you will be faced with trying to save money. ..my two cents on this subject are...if it is something that you can replace later...than that fine...this boat has been in 8 ft swells...yes I have taken it in the ocean. ..I have the greatest confidence...in the materials...
Just keep that in mind as you build...
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

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specialk
Posts: 480
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:53 pm
Location: Columbia, SC

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby specialk » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:12 pm

Love your truck...want to clear coat mine one day...

You want a sharp edge on your transom with a planing boat...a rounded edge will cause porpoising...

And on the top deck I only put one layer of cloth....but a couple of extra coats of epoxy primer...
Last edited by specialk on Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

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tcough
Posts: 157
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:30 pm
Location: Panama City, FL

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby tcough » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:17 pm

specialk wrote:Rollbar...your question about the 1/4 inch plywood ..I was very generous with epoxy when I glued down the first sheet...and when I glued the second sheet down I totally covered the area with slow setting epoxy. ..I used about 5 to 6 gallons of epoxy on my build...I did encapsulate the entire inside of my flats flyer with epoxy...
The paint on the inside is 2 part epoxy paint...it is hard to work with...I used disposable brushes and rollers...

I use silicon bronze.... this boat lives most of it life in shallow saltwater...and when you mix several different kinds of metals you can get electrolysis...as you build...you will be faced with trying to save money. ..my two cents on this subject are...if it is something that you can replace later...than that fine...this boat has been in 8 ft swells...yes I have taken it in the ocean. ..I have the greatest confidence...in the materials...
Just keep that in mind as you build...

8' swell? No way, Janet would kill me! That is, after she stops chuming....
Happy Boating,
Tracy

Building a 19'-9" Flats Flyer

Rollbar
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:27 pm
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby Rollbar » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:21 pm

specialk wrote:Rollbar...your question about the 1/4 inch plywood ..I was very generous with epoxy when I glued down the first sheet...and when I glued the second sheet down I totally covered the area with slow setting epoxy. ..I used about 5 to 6 gallons of epoxy on my build...I did encapsulate the entire inside of my flats flyer with epoxy...
The paint on the inside is 2 part epoxy paint...it is hard to work with...I used disposable brushes and rollers...

I use silicon bronze.... this boat lives most of it life in shallow saltwater...and when you mix several different kinds of metals you can get electrolysis...as you build...you will be faced with trying to save money. ..my two cents on this subject are...if it is something that you can replace later...than that fine...this boat has been in 8 ft swells...yes I have taken it in the ocean. ..I have the greatest confidence...in the materials...
Just keep that in mind as you build...


Thank you very much for the info, and nice boat you have.

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specialk
Posts: 480
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:53 pm
Location: Columbia, SC

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby specialk » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:28 pm

Tracy..I think it was a day are two after I took y"all for a ride...I just want to know that ,, if for some reason I got in heavy seas...that this boat could take it....(and you know Beverly sat at the camp site.)....kinda like sea trials. ..it was kinda scary in the low parts of the waves..you lost site of everything. ....you should see the 115 motor I have for her in my barn...can't wait..
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

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tcough
Posts: 157
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:30 pm
Location: Panama City, FL

Re: Flats Flyer Build in S.C.

Postby tcough » Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:33 pm

Can't wait to hear how a 115 works on her. That's what I'm planning to put on the back of mine. I have a Yamaha 115 4-stroke on the back of my deck boat and it's super dependable and can push me around with ease. I had 9 adults in it over at Homosassa Spring and though I couldn't get her on plane, she still pushed us around well enough to enjoy the scenery and monkey island.
Happy Boating,
Tracy

Building a 19'-9" Flats Flyer


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