FF in Kathleen GA

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

Thanks. Tbh, it wouldn't be any less accurate than me tracing...cause it still have to cut it out again on the line. The only things I can't cut out are the frames and I did it with nailing holes along the line through contractor paper, then cutting it out.
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

I want to eliminate the motorwell and hook a jack plate directly to the transom. I was thinking of bringing the 2x6 transom cross member up to the top, but now I’m wondering if the transom knee should just go all the way up...my concern is the strength of the transom. Should I thicken it as well or should the double ply be enough to handle the jackplate? Should the center 2x6 be maintained?

I can post some drawings tomorrow if that would help illustrate my point
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

PeterG
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Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by PeterG »

Drawings or sketches will help. Some here can offer help.
Food for thought: making the transom knee thicker like 4 plies of plywood instead of a typical 3 plies doesn't add much strength but making each leg deeper like 4 or 5 inches versus per plan 3 inches will make it stronger without much added weight. The cross brace should probably stay per plan size and in the plan location, and vertical braces off the same dimensions at each end will help stiffen the transom.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

PeterG wrote:Drawings or sketches will help. Some here can offer help.
Food for thought: making the transom knee thicker like 4 plies of plywood instead of a typical 3 plies doesn't add much strength but making each leg deeper like 4 or 5 inches versus per plan 3 inches will make it stronger without much added weight. The cross brace should probably stay per plan size and in the plan location, and vertical braces off the same dimensions at each end will help stiffen the transom.
I'm not a structural engineer, but I think I'll leave it as planned and just board off the top without the . I think the jack plate distributes the pressure in the same area over a larger area than the motor clamps would anyways. The area in front of the motor won't be used much anyways. I'd put a picture of th plans up, buy I'm not sure if Glen L would frown on that.
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

hoodman
Posts: 2608
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by hoodman »

One thing to consider is that a jack plate will move the weight of the outboard further aft maybe 8-10" (or more?) and could upset the balance of the boat depending on how heavy your motor ends up being.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

When using poxy grip in 40 degrees, how long should it take to be workable? I'm looking at gluing up the stem tonight.
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

PeterG
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Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by PeterG »

Not quite sure what you're asking but when working with epoxy at lower temperatures are the pot life and cure time will be longer. The pot life or working time shouldn't be a problem for gluing up your stem at 40 degrees. You can just mix it and apply it but give it longer time to cure before handling it. Cooling the epoxy after you mix it is a common trick to extend pot life or working time when working at higher temperatures. Most epoxies don't do well below 40 degrees so beware of that.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

PeterG wrote:Not quite sure what you're asking but when working with epoxy at lower temperatures are the pot life and cure time will be longer. The pot life or working time shouldn't be a problem for gluing up your stem at 40 degrees. You can just mix it and apply it but give it longer time to cure before handling it. Cooling the epoxy after you mix it is a common trick to extend pot life or working time when working at higher temperatures. Most epoxies don't do well below 40 degrees so beware of that.
By workable, for the stem, I meant handling to cut to proper sizing. I left them a bit over the line so I could laminate them and then cut them on the bandsaw at one time. Thanks. I’ve heard of people putting the epoxy in the freezer and keeping it for a couple of days.
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

The keel is drawn and ready to be cut.
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AB1BF119-FC62-43E0-84FB-8DA5B493A495.jpeg
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

hoodman
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by hoodman »

I usually just keep the mixing cup sitting around and when the leftovers are cured then I know whatever I have glued has cured also. Your fingernail will not be able to dent fully cured epoxy. You probably know this but if you keep your epoxy in the house where it's warmer then it will be easier to mix up. If it's too cold it can be like molasses.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

hoodman
Posts: 2608
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by hoodman »

A space heater pointed overnight at whatever you are gluing can also be a big help in cold temps to speed up curing.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

hoodman wrote:I usually just keep the mixing cup sitting around and when the leftovers are cured then I know whatever I have glued has cured also. Your fingernail will not be able to dent fully cured epoxy. You probably know this but if you keep your epoxy in the house where it's warmer then it will be easier to mix up. If it's too cold it can be like molasses.
As my father says, "I've forgotten more than I've known, so its good to be reminded anyways." Thanks
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

Getting the gussets drawn out
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1517775886305294023695.jpg
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

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specialk
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Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:53 pm
Location: Port St. John Florida

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by specialk »

Conrad...remember when cutting multiple pieces or your gusset. ...you can cut a little big...and use a bottom bearing bit on a router to match everything up...
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

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Conrad
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 am
Location: Kathleen GA

Re: FF in Kathleen GA

Post by Conrad »

Most of the gussets are cut and pre-wetted.
Attachments
15182290602561147576000.jpg
Keep your lines tight!

Conrad

Consider what God has done: Who can straighten what he has made crooked? Ecc 7:13 :)

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