Monte Carlo engine compartment

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Brian
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Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Brian » Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:18 pm

I'm going to be dropping my big Ilmor in next month and have left the forward deck beam off until I see how much clearance I have. The hatch will be 48X48, which is big enough to remove the engine if necessary. The width of the compartment is fixed. But the length forward will impact how much space is left for seating. A cross deck there can be anything from about 10" to whatever. Are there forward engine clearances I should be wary of? Or just tuck it in (it's a tight fit)? Should the rear bench seat back be removable or have an access panel? Appreciate anyone's experience with this.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:38 pm

Brian

I put access panels fore and aft. And, still want more! More is good.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Roberta
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Roberta » Mon Oct 31, 2016 4:12 pm

Don't know what your engine has in front, but my Crusader has the belt, water pump impellor, and the fuel control cell up front that need periodic servicing. I put a removable panel in front with an air vent to allow cool air in to the front of the motor. It is pretty tight to the panel and no issues. I have bucket seats in my cockpit. If you are doing a bench seat, just make a hole below the seat bottom for a vent.

Roberta
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Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Brian
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Brian » Tue Nov 01, 2016 10:02 am

Wow, that is SO helpful, Roberta! I am going to do the same. Now I'm ready to locate that beam! Even with a 48" hatch opening, getting to various parts of the engine will be a struggle unless I can train my 4 year old grandson to slide in there! But I have lots of room down the sides, so there will be access to those areas from the rear cockpit and from behind the bench in front of the engine. The air intake is interesting. Does it allow more noise through? I was planning on putting heat/sound insulation on the back of that bulkhead/panel (as well as the hatch and wherever I can do it without being it). What is that material you are using for seat bases and panels? AB Marine ply, non-Marine Meranti, or what?

And Bill, yes, more access is better, so I am going to make everything I can removable. Front seats fixed, but everything else removable. Thanks.

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Roberta
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Roberta » Tue Nov 01, 2016 10:46 am

Hey, Brian,

The flooring for the seat bases is Exterior AB DF plywood (3/4") and the Bulkhead panel is 1/4" Okoume marine plywood. I used contract adhesive and glued on a suede like material I purchased from Great Lakes Skipper (Racine, WI). I used no insulation or sound deadener. I used marine grade carpet also from GLS. The bucket seats I use also came from there. You can see in the pic with the panel off that I used some wedge shaped pieces to close out the area outside the opening. These allowed the panel to slope a bit. Two blocks on the floor in front of the crank pulley are set to hold the bottom of the panel in place. Panel is set in between them. Only three screws driven into the deck beam along the top are need to hold the panel in place. Plywood panels were made to close out the areas below the cover boards.

The vent was put in the panel mostly to ensure venting for bilge fumes. The closed cooling on the Crusader engine really keeps things cool. I don't remember where I picked up the vent. I think it was GLS or their spinoff vendor Kendor (Franklin, WI).The Rinker seats are very comfy and fit the Torpedo very well. I am in the process of having an upholstery shop remove the Rinker embroidery and replacing it with the Glen L logo. Attached are some interior pics showing the seats and the foot wells I put in straddling the motor stringers. You can see a joggle in the front floor board. This sets on a center support and allows me to easily lift the carpet and pull those two boards out for maintenance and inspection.

Roberta :D
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Controls 002.JPG
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Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Brian
Posts: 179
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Location: Hawaii

Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Brian » Tue Nov 01, 2016 11:01 am

Very helpful and gorgeous work, Roberta. My spaces are very different, but I get the idea. Wish I had the ability to go around my stringers in the front, but mine are much wider with the beam that sisters up and goes forward. So I'm going to be stuck with a bit of an awkward seating situation in the front. The angled foot panel will help, and it won't be much different than a Lamborghini :-) But I think I am going to have about 6" of rise at the front of the seats (plus 2" of cushion), and I'm going to try to drop the sole a couple of inches in that area, so maybe not too bad.

garrech
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby garrech » Thu Nov 10, 2016 3:33 am

Brian wrote: Even with a 48" hatch opening, getting to various parts of the engine will be a struggle unless I can train my 4 year old grandson to slide in there!


One of my favorite memories with my Granddad is dropping down into the engine compartment of their 28' cabin cruiser to help him diagnose an issue! I was probably 7 years old.

Brian
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Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Brian » Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:00 am

My grandson is 4 now, so in a few years he will be very helpful in my engine compartment as well!

Brian
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Location: Hawaii

Re: Monte Carlo engine compartment

Postby Brian » Fri Oct 13, 2017 8:48 am

Humbly, I admit that I still have not installed my engine (note the dates of earlier posts), but I am getting closer, I swear! I've put it off mainly because it's SO much easier to work without it in there. In looking at how it will go, the mounts on the engine (Ilmor) will need to go lower than the tops of the stringers, and inboard a little, so I am going to need to remount them (4) on the inside of the stringers. The mounts have a lot of adjustment all directions, but not enough. They are the kind that are sort of an upside down L forging with rubber and adjustments, that bolt onto a stringer. So I don't think I can use any kind of angle aluminum or steel. So, I'm thinking of a piece of oak about 2" thick, 4" high, and 3 feet long, bolted through the stringers. Does this sound right, or are there other ways to do such a remount?


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