20ft Texas Barrel

[Hercdrvr]

I must be crazy, I haven't even finished my Malahini yet and I started a Barrelback build. In the past I've only asked questions occasionally on the forum about building my Squirt and Malahini. Im going to run a continuos thread for this build.
First picture is me with a confused look as I unroll the plans.

Matt B

[alycat]

Where in Texas?

[Dave Grason]

If you have room for both projects at the same time you're good to go - right?

I mean, you have to start when the inspiration strikes.

BTW, I saw a photo of you and Roberta playing guitars on Friday evening at the Gathering. You have to believe me when I say, I had the killer of all migraines that night. I had to go back to my cabin and sleep. Otherwise, I would have been right there with you.

[Hercdrvr]

Had a little set back on the Barrel Back today, snapped one of the side battens at the stem. I cut the broken section out and scarfed in a patch way aft on a straight flat area. I could have made a new batten but it takes lots of material to make a 20ft batten.
So far so good,
Matt B

[JimmY]

I wish I had the room to build 2 boats, or at least one full size one!

Looks like a good start to another classic woodie.

[PeterG]

Great recovery with the batten. Note the shape of the hull near the bow, lots of flare sheer to chine, gotta love that classic look. Nice work!

[Hercdrvr]

All the battens are on. Fairing is almost complete.

Now I'm staring at this transom curving in 3 dimensions. Dang, this is tricky to visualize how it all comes together in a beautiful Barrel back. Well at least I'm looking at it upside down, that helps too.

Matt B

[Jimbob]

Looking good!
I had to make my exhaust holes larger later for proper placement of the exhaust tips.
I almost screwed up by not fairing the bottom of the transom to match the battens on the bottom of the boat. I noticed the "hook" on the bottom after I had installed the plywood on the bottom of the boat. I ended up having to fair the plywood to get it right. The other thing you might consider is if you are going to put limbers on the frames, they will need to drain out of the transom unless you are putting a thru hull in the bottom of the boat. I didn't want two drain plugs coming out of the transom, so I routed the two sides on each side of the keel to a center drain hole. (see picture). The hole also goes into the two areas below (as you look at the picture) so water can drain out if any gets in. In any case, I would cut your transom drain hole(s) before you put on the bottom plywood. I didn't want to be drilling blindly into the boat so that's why I did it this way.
Jim

[Hercdrvr]

Jimbob,
Do you have a side view of your transom before it was planked? I'm just not seeing how this all contours together at the top of the transom (bottom in pic).

Matt B

[NAMEngJS]

While the model images are not directly a barrel back it is still a barreled stern that is assembled in the same way as the barrel back. Hopefully these help somewhat until some one who has actual assembly photos of the transom

In the below photo I have tried to show what the built up area at the top of the transom would look like.

Also if you go to
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=25407

Will's facebook build log is in his signature and I believe he has some construction photos of that area as well.

[PeterG]

I have the Key Largo plans, same as the barrelback. In looking at it, the barrelback transom can get confusing but break it down to the controlling shapes or surfaces: The 3/4" plywood transom, which gives the shape of the sides, deck and bottom surfaces at that location. Then the vertical curved aft face of the transom is the other controlling surface. Where these surfaces intersect will give the final shape of the deck and transom. Probably the easiest way to build this is to attach the horizontal 2x4 pieces to the 3/4" plywood transom, and cut the extra 2x4 material off along the edge of the plywood. Cut it perpendicular to the face of the plywood. This will give you the shape you need to attach the transom planking to, and leaves enough material to fair it properly. You can final fair at the deck after you flip the hull. Check out Bill Checkerberry (BillyC) 's Belle Isle build, it has the same construction, very detailed.
By the way, you can use the same pattern for making all of the 2x4 horizontal pieces. Make the bottom one first, then use it to make copies for the others. Install each piece then cut off the overhanging ends flush with the edge of the 3/4" plywood. This will give the correct curved aft surface of the transom.

[Bill Edmundson]

This is my transom for the Tahoe. It is probably the same design from KH.

Bill

[Hercdrvr]

Great input everyone, thanks

Matt B

[Hercdrvr]

I think I've got a handle on the shape now. Cooked another belt sander today so it's break time. I'm averaging 1 belt sander per boat. Another $30 HF model on order.

Matt B

[Hercdrvr]

I'm looking at everyone's exhaust cut-outs, are mine too high up the transom? When I say "high" I'm mean after the boat is flipped, my intent is to have the bottom of exhaust trumpets at the water line.
Matt B