20ft Texas Barrel

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Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:24 pm

Ok, great. Thanks for the advice all. I think I’ll only close up the transom to the mid camber board and do the rest after the flip. There’s lots happening on the top of the barrel transom that can be better dealt with right-side up.
Matt B

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:23 pm

I drove into Dallas and ordered all the African Mahogany for the side planking. Having it resawn and milled to 3/16” in 8-10 Ft lengths and 6-8”wide. 90 bd/ft total at $5.25 bd/ft plus tax was right at $500....plus $225 to re-saw, plane and run it all through the giant pizza oven conveyor drum sander.
My friend and fellow Barrelback builder made me some planking to practice bending and he had trouble planing it down to 1/8 without it tearing out.
The plans call for 1/8 planking but after playing with some sample 3/16 I think I can bent it into submission. 1/8 is so thin if I need to do any significant sanding.
Great lumber yard to work with and $5.25 bd/ft is as cheap as it gets round here.
Time to learn what this spiling is all about now.

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sproggy
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby sproggy » Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:16 am

Hercdrvr wrote:Great lumber yard to work with and $5.25 bd/ft is as cheap as it gets round here.


That's less than half what I'd pay over here - a great price.

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:53 pm

BTW everyone, I’m going to stop being such a forum hog as soon as it quits raining in north Texas. Two weeks stuck in the house. I have to wheel the boat outside to work, 20ft boat in a 20ft garage stall is tight.
Matt B

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hoodman
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby hoodman » Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:18 pm

I love seeing your posts about the barrellback, Matt.

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:54 pm

Sometimes I have to revisit previous lessons learned. Follow the directions. While it might be possible to cover the transom in a single sheet it’s not practical. Maybe if I had 4 people to hold it all down at once.
It was a twisted buckled mess before I got 10 staples in. Also, there is an area of the transom I used thickened epoxy to build up a low spot, well the raptor staple won’t penetrate the dried epoxy filler. I’ll have use a few screws in that area.

I’m glad I didn’t try to force a bad idea. Still have 3 full sheets of 1/8 plywood to finish the transom.

Back to the directions, two layers of diagonal strips.

Matt B
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sproggy
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby sproggy » Fri Mar 02, 2018 2:37 am

I've studied the Barrelback transom design (but not build instructions) a fair amount as I'll have a similar curved outer transom on my Zip. But smaller :) I'll use a single layer of 1/4" ply screwed to the frames with 1/8" mahogany strips raptor-stapled on top. Why do you need to use diagonal strips in 2 layers on a simple curved surface?

I'd have thought a single layer of 1/4" ply, one row of screws down the centre first, then bend one side at a time against the curved frames, working out from the centre would have the same end result, a smoother surface for bonding the mahogany to and no buckling?

I'm probably missing something, though.

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Jimbob
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:36 am

HI Matt,
I used the diagonal strips. I think they are much easier to control at the edges. I could see with each strip that I had a good bond with the frame underneath and at the edges. Flush trimming the strips at the edge was easy. I didn't want to fight a large piece and take the chance of not getting a tight joint at the edges. Not really all that time consuming to go with the strips.
Jim
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Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:58 am

Jim

Looks like you used 6" strips. I can easily use that many strips in a session. So, a day per layer. I think I did use sheet of 1/8" on the Tahoe though.
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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jamundsen
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby jamundsen » Sat Mar 03, 2018 7:01 pm

i did one piece on mine.
John Amundsen
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Lakeland,Fl

Work tends to get in the way of boat building

DavO
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby DavO » Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:09 pm

Matt
A question for you and/or the group. Are you attaching your outer mahogany planking using the Raptor staples? I understand that you will need to sand off the cross-portion of the staple, but the remaining ends tend to disappear (I saw a blog on the website where the person did several experiments about this). I know that some people use screws, but I do not see how one can countersink a screw in 3/16 wood, and still have room for a plug on top to hide the screw head.

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:45 pm

Hi David,
Haven’t crossed that hurdle yet but I agree with you about not enough meat there to counter sink the screws and have enough room for a wood bung in 3/16” planking. Raptor fasteners and poxy-grip is my plan, then sand off the plastic staple heads.

I’ll call you when I pick up all the planking from Hardwoods of Dallas so you come by to see how it turned out.
Matt

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:47 pm

Anybody else on this one?
Matt B

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Jimbob
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Mon Mar 05, 2018 3:35 pm

I used raptor brown brads (not the staples) to attach my mahogany veneer on the sides and the decks. I then filled the holes with famowood mahogany filler. You can't see where they are after the mahogany is stained.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Brad Tucker
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Brad Tucker » Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:09 pm

I used Raptor brads on mine.


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