20ft Texas Barrel

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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neel thompson
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby neel thompson » Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:30 am

I helped Glenn B in Lancaster PA put his planking on a couple years ago and plan to use his method on my PB. He had ripped strips of scrap 1/8" plywood and scrap 1/8" mahogany. He used my Raptor brad nail gun with brown brads. He secured the planking by nailing through the scraps and into the planking. After the epoxy cured, he tapped the scrap strips with a hammer to break the brads off at or above the planked surface. Then he did a light sanding to make everything flush. This way, no fill was required and honestly the brads are invisible. I have had some issues with the brad nail gun in the past as sometimes they counter sink, sometimes they remain proud above the surface, and sometimes they are flush. I have experimented with different air settings and could never get consistency. When I planked my Gentry, I used the rope and staple method. It worked out fine and the staple holes mostly filled in with the filler stain I used. It was a lot more time consuming than the method Glenn used. In my opinion, the Raptor staples should only be used in places that won't be seen such as cold molding plywood strips. I don't see how you could make the staples invisible. Just my two cents.... Neel

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:44 am

Hmm, Gonna have to give this some thought.
thanks Neel.
Matt

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DrBryanJ
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby DrBryanJ » Tue Mar 06, 2018 10:58 am

I didn't have a raptor stapler and didn't want to spend the money on one. I used regular staples with my pneumatic stapler shot through rope. Pulling staples was fairly easy. After staining and epoxy you can not see the holes.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

steves
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Location: Friendswood, TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby steves » Tue Mar 06, 2018 7:39 pm

I used scraps of the 1/8" plywood, cut into 1" squares and used the longer 9/16" staples to staple through them and through the last layer of mahogany veneer. Once the resin was relatively dry, a knock on the plywood square with a piece of wood or a hammer would shear it off. The ends of the staples disappeared after sanding and staining.

I hope this makes sense.

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:26 pm

Back on the rails, two layers on the transom today and that’s it, she’s all closed up. Those 200+ strips of 1/8” plywood was a real karate kid wax on...wax off journey.
Matt B
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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby hoodman » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:30 pm

You deserve a tasty beverage!

Tang
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Location: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Tang » Thu Mar 08, 2018 8:02 pm

This thread is really helpful, I'm clearing space in my shop to get a barrelback started soon. But will prob be hot by that time. Still investigating material sources.

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Sat Mar 10, 2018 12:21 pm

I have to have a transition joint from lap joint to butt joint right? I used the same technique from a sheet plywood boat. Bottom planking is 1/4 proud of side planking right now, 4 layers bottom and 2 layers on the side. I ordered my Mahogany side planking 3/16” so I’ll be off by 1/16” at the butt joint. No big deal to sand that out and it all gets covered up with fiberglass and paint.
Am I missing anything here?
Matt B
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hoodman
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby hoodman » Sat Mar 10, 2018 8:30 pm

Spray rail basically covers that joint too if you're going that route.

neel thompson
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Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby neel thompson » Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:14 am

Matt, If I am understanding your question, I think you need to sand the bottom section forward of the transition joint to flow into the sides. I dug through my pictures and found these. Maybe they will help... Neel
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billy c
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby billy c » Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:03 pm

Hi Matt
It is a little hard to see the beginning of the transition joint that you have. looks like I am seeing the framing for the chine?
You do not want the bottom to lap the topsides on your cold mold at the bow so think the bottom needs to be brought flush with the sides. can you post a picture of the transition joint from a few more angles so we can see the overlapping plywood better?
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

PeterG
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby PeterG » Sun Mar 11, 2018 2:14 pm

Matt, that makes sense to do a transition of the side topside planking to a butt joint with the bottom planking, just like the plywood hulls. The only layer you need to do that is the top one, the under ones can stay a lap joint like you have. You could put your transition from lap to butt aft far enough to be covered by the bottom paint. It would look just like the vintage boat planking. Like Matt (Hoodman) says, a spray rail could cover the joint too. Definitely check out BillyC's Belle Isle project as well as Neel's boat and Bob Perkins' boat. These were finished bright on their topsides and set the standard we (I) aspire to meet.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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billy c
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby billy c » Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:04 am

PeterG wrote:Matt, that makes sense to do a transition of the side topside planking to a butt joint with the bottom planking, just like the plywood hulls. The only layer you need to do that is the top one, the under ones can stay a lap joint like you have.

Right Peter. You definitely want to get the full thickness of the mahogany layer as you run the transition all the way to the bow. Fairing the mahogany layer and future refinishing work will benefit from the full butt to miter joint plank thickness. This seam is visible above the waterline at the bow.
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

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hoodman
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby hoodman » Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:26 am

Thinking about this, it seems to me that Neel is right. I think this is going to cause problems if you don't trim it flush with the side planking. You're going to reveal quite a bit of edge grain layers on the plywood farther up forward but that's where the chine crosses the waterline so you'll likely be veneering over that anyways. This is tough. It's hard to see what's really going on in the pictures.

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Jimbob
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:56 pm

Hi Matt,
I think what Neel said is right. On my barrelback I blended the bottom into the sides on before the the mahogany planking went on. I would suggest trimming that sucker down where the bottom meets the sides so there is no proud lip, then go with your planking. Leave the mahogany veneer proud of the bottom and then fair it back to the bottom of the boat. Another think to keep in mind, is that a spray rail won't cover anything but the last 4ft at the stern of the boat on the barrelback design. What will cover seams is the fiberglass, epoxy, and bottom paint.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
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