20ft Texas Barrel

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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BayouBengal
Posts: 1024
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Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Oct 10, 2017 1:40 pm

LOOKIN' GREAT!!!

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Fri Oct 13, 2017 1:58 am

I got one side “starboard” trimmed off along the chine. Port side only took 3 days to plank. I never know what to call the sides of the boat when it’s upside down. Isn’t “Port” still the left side of the boat boat facing forward even if it’s capsized? So Starboard planking becomes Port planking after the flip?
My mind has to think about something while tacking on all these strips of wood.
Matt B
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Starting to get a sexy shape

PeterG
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Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby PeterG » Fri Oct 13, 2017 8:47 am

Port/Starboard... Starboard/Port... Tomayto/Tomahto...
You just gotta love those sweet lines and the flare of the bow on that hull!
Your planking looks great, keep up the good work!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

DavO
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Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2017 1:53 pm
Location: McKinney, TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby DavO » Thu Oct 19, 2017 5:44 pm

Slow down there bud, this isn't a race!

Mickffly
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:02 am

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Mickffly » Fri Oct 20, 2017 8:44 am

I found a good tip on "breaking down plywood" on the Woodsmith shop tv program (PBS). Buy a piece of 1" or 2" foam insulation (4X8), lay it on the ground and place the plywood sheet on top of the foam. Use your circular saw to make any manageable sizes of plywood you need. Set the blade so the saw just penetrates the foam (that way you can use the foam over and over). I mark the rough edges so I can use the "factory" edge on my table saw to make strips.
Mickffly
Charleston, SC
Key Largo Build
started 8/30/2015

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:19 am

I’m liking this full sheet section. How did everyone glue the next full sheet on? I’ve been using Poxygrip, but it’s kinda thick to cover a larger area. I am thinking poxy-shield would be easier.
Matt B
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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:31 am

You are right the poxygrip is thick. In cold weather it even gets thicker. (warm it up before you mix up a batch).
Here is what I have found works pretty well with poxygrip.
Just get the epoxy on the boards with a chip brush (you don't need to paint the entire board), follow up with a bondo spreader so that each board is covered evenly.
You will end up with a uniform coating of epoxy and less squeeze out at the edges.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Nov 22, 2017 12:47 pm

Good call on the Bondo spreader, I’ll try it.
Thanks,
Matt B

TomB
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby TomB » Wed Nov 22, 2017 3:21 pm

Matt,

Use an 1/8" notched plastic trowel set about 45* to the sheet to spread the thickened epoxy on both sheets wiping first one way then the other. You will get a very even layer of glue ridges. The epoxy will spread into the little valleys as the next sheet is applied. The notched trowels are available at the home center for about the same price as a plastic spreader. I like the notched trowel because it avoids the risk of leaving thick areas that are difficult to flatten as the top sheet is applied. For encapsulation with thinner epoxy I use the plastic spreader and watch to avoid a ridge coming off the edge of the spreader.

Tom

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:50 am

Working my way forward 5 inches at a time. I started out trimming each plank to line up along the centerline of the keel but said to heck with it, I’ll trim them off later all at once. Volley up advice if anyone sees a problem here.

It’s nice to have a Malahini complete and ready for the water next summer so the pressure is off on this build.
Matt B
McKinney TX
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jenko
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Location: Pine Mountain . Vic . Australia
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby jenko » Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:05 pm

I think it pays to cut at the Keel and mark your centreline , you can trim the outside easily later it is important to keep track of the true centreline .With all the layers being added it has been known for the centreline to shift up to a 1/2 inch in one case

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:06 pm

I cut each plank close (slightly proud) the centerline of the keel. When I got one complete side done, I took a plane and trimmed that side down to the centerline. (it's like fairing all over again) After doing that, I planked the opposing side once again leaving that side slightly proud, and then once again taking a plane and trimming it down to the centerline. The result is that on the centerpoint of the keel, you will not have a seam, but overlapping pieces of plywood (stronger that a butt joint ). If your fairing is correct you will end up with a centerline that doesn't wander. I feel that the overlapping is also important at the bow and stern. It's also easier than trying to make a perfect seam where the two sides meet. I tried that first and it was a nightmare.
Anyway, this worked for me and I was very happy with the results.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:39 pm

Very Good reply’s about keeping the centerline true throughout all the layers. I agree about overlapping planking on the forward 1/3 of the boat where the angles are steep, exspecially on the stem, Like a sheet plywood boat overlaps at the stem.

I’m not too worried about the stern 1/2 of the keel, it’s so flat I’ll just pour in some epoxy to fill any gaps, pop a chalk line and sand it true if needed.
Thanks for your advice,
Matt B

Hercdrvr
Posts: 531
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Sat Dec 02, 2017 1:07 pm

A Friend has a 1965 ChrisCraft 36 ft in a pasture rotting away with twin 283’s. I dug around to see if I could salvage an engine and transmission for the Barrelback. The engines are probably more headache than they’re worth but It was fun to examine the boats craftsmanship.
Matt B
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PeterG
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Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby PeterG » Sat Dec 02, 2017 4:08 pm

Too bad about the boat, probably too much work to fix it, but the engines are probably worth salvaging for a period correct install. They would be perfect for a 20 ft Glen L runabout. Not too small, not too big, easy to rebuild. Just not something I need.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.


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