Tom's Tahoe
Moderators: Bill Edmundson, billy c
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Toivo,
The initial plan to cut the step into the area above the rudder has been abandoned.
The plans show a transom made from a layer of plywood with blocking aft to create a cambered transom. I am keeping the plywood and doing something different aft. The area from chine to keel to chine is extended about 3", the sides are extended a maximum of 10", and the deck is extended about 6" on each side of the scallop while the scallop reduces the deck about 3".
The blocking to define the scallop and the first layer of plywood where test fit last night. The battens for the areas adjacent to the scallop will be cut today and then the glue up. I will post pictures which should do a better job of explaining.
Tom
The initial plan to cut the step into the area above the rudder has been abandoned.
The plans show a transom made from a layer of plywood with blocking aft to create a cambered transom. I am keeping the plywood and doing something different aft. The area from chine to keel to chine is extended about 3", the sides are extended a maximum of 10", and the deck is extended about 6" on each side of the scallop while the scallop reduces the deck about 3".
The blocking to define the scallop and the first layer of plywood where test fit last night. The battens for the areas adjacent to the scallop will be cut today and then the glue up. I will post pictures which should do a better job of explaining.
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Looking good TomB. It is amazing to see the solutions people come up with.
Re: Tom's Tahoe
The blocking to define the scallop shape has been installed and faired on the transom.
The battens flanking the scallop have also been cut. I sprung battens across the transom to match the camber of the deck and then cut the bottom of the notches, screwed the battens down, and then cut away the area that will be scalloped. Final attachment will wait until the transom is attached to the motor stringers. (I will probably wish for more access than I can get.)
The blocking at the top of the transom is faired to the scallop and the deck. I will fair the blocking on the scallop and leave it loose to, maybe, make the deck easier to fair later.
Another backing piece is needed at the transom/hull side. The transom and hull side battens give me an idea of the shape.
Tom
The battens flanking the scallop have also been cut. I sprung battens across the transom to match the camber of the deck and then cut the bottom of the notches, screwed the battens down, and then cut away the area that will be scalloped. Final attachment will wait until the transom is attached to the motor stringers. (I will probably wish for more access than I can get.)
The blocking at the top of the transom is faired to the scallop and the deck. I will fair the blocking on the scallop and leave it loose to, maybe, make the deck easier to fair later.
Another backing piece is needed at the transom/hull side. The transom and hull side battens give me an idea of the shape.
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23
Re: Tom's Tahoe
I could not resist the urge to force a piece of 3mm plywood into the scallop.
The little voices in my head say "attach it now" and "you'll regret it if you do".
Tom
The little voices in my head say "attach it now" and "you'll regret it if you do".
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Tom, looks great, very challenging to figure this out. Question, do you have any horizontal blocking between the vertical pieces of the scallop, to support the entire lower edge of the scallop plywood? May want some to keep the joint between the scallop plywood and the shelf from possibly opening up.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Thanks.
Pete, you caught me! There are four little pieces to finish out the blocking at the lower edge of the plywood. I left them out to give myself a little access for encapsulation. They will go in with the second coat.
Tom
Pete, you caught me! There are four little pieces to finish out the blocking at the lower edge of the plywood. I left them out to give myself a little access for encapsulation. They will go in with the second coat.
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Thought you had that covered, but second set of eyes and all. Your design is really going to look sharp. The transom corners will be fun, you've got a great start.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Re: Tom's Tahoe
That's turning out really nice!
Re: Tom's Tahoe
Very creative Tom. Thrilled that you are giving it a go and will continue to follow with great interest.
Donn
Donn
Re: Tom's Tahoe
The corner boards seem simple enough. All they do is follow the side and transom curves while also covering the planking end-grain.
While I can see the line easily enough, shaping a board has turned out to be a challenge. The first attempt to build out the corner looked good. A boat-mare (nightmare about the boat) left my wondering how to attach a corner covering board. The first attempt went in the burn pile! Four more attempts...a growing burn pile.
This is the sixth attempt. It will show about 1" on the transom and 1 1/2" on the side.
The corner board was cut oversized and shaped to follow the curves. The board sets proud of the frame by the thickness of the planking plus a little for fairing after planking. After I was satisfied with the curve and fit, 3/4" of the forward edge was cut away and then moved toward the CL to give a landing place for side planking.
The guard will cover the joint and the screws between the two corner pieces.
Backing to catch the end of transom planking is attached to the battens.
The battens, blocking and corners will be removed before the transom is flipped and hung on the frame. Then the bottom and side battens will be installed. And finally, the transom corner pieces can be re-assembled and faired. I hope I can lift it.
Tom
While I can see the line easily enough, shaping a board has turned out to be a challenge. The first attempt to build out the corner looked good. A boat-mare (nightmare about the boat) left my wondering how to attach a corner covering board. The first attempt went in the burn pile! Four more attempts...a growing burn pile.
This is the sixth attempt. It will show about 1" on the transom and 1 1/2" on the side.
The corner board was cut oversized and shaped to follow the curves. The board sets proud of the frame by the thickness of the planking plus a little for fairing after planking. After I was satisfied with the curve and fit, 3/4" of the forward edge was cut away and then moved toward the CL to give a landing place for side planking.
The guard will cover the joint and the screws between the two corner pieces.
Backing to catch the end of transom planking is attached to the battens.
The battens, blocking and corners will be removed before the transom is flipped and hung on the frame. Then the bottom and side battens will be installed. And finally, the transom corner pieces can be re-assembled and faired. I hope I can lift it.
Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23
Re: Tom's Tahoe
This is really an amazing piece of work Tom, your dedication to getting it right is going to pay off in a real head turner when finished. The bar here on the forum keeps going up!



Re: Tom's Tahoe
WOW. Stunning, this will look great!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Re: Tom's Tahoe
You're ingenuity and craftsmanship is astounding.
Give me a call if you need a hand installing it.
Give me a call if you need a hand installing it.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!