Tom's Tahoe

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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TomB
Posts: 336
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:22 pm

Ouch!!! That's about what I spent on the compressor, piping, controls, and tools. I probably should of spent more on the compressor. Tom

TomB
Posts: 336
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:01 pm

I did some "lining off" today. I ran masking tape from chine to sheer; marked its location on the hull and peeled it off; measured; did math; and marked the tape for planks; taped it back on the hull; stood back a squinted. It took a "noodle" of a batten to give a fare line at the bow. I like seven planks a little better than six. It seemed like the planks drooped a little when I divided the stem by seven spaces, so the stem got six planks. The seventh plank fades as it touches the stem.
Lining off starboard.jpg
I can re-saw about 5 1/4", maybe. I cut a plywood strip 5 1/4" wide and clamped it across the lines to see how the arc of hull would run through a plank. The bottom center is indexed on the sheer. Butt joints would be located where the top of the plank crosses the plank line. There will have to be more butt joints at the bow than I would really like. I will have to see if I can really resew 5 1/4" and think a little more about butt joints and plank width.
sample plank starboard bow.jpg
Tom

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by JimmY » Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:03 am

Hi Tom,

Nice job in the spiling. A couple of comments...

I ended up with shorter boards at the bow due to the spiling and the length of the veneer I used. You don't really see them once the boat is upright, so it might not be as bad as you think.

The other idea to get longer boards without making them wider is to use the offcut from the bottom (top when up side down) of the plank and glue this to the top of the plank to fill in the radius. By using the same plank, the grain will probably match pretty close and you won't see it in the final result. I did this on one or two of my covering boards and you can't see the seam now.

Looking good so far!
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by Hercdrvr » Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:10 am

You will be able to make longer planks as you progress toward the waterline. I was happy the way my butt joints naturally staggered near the bow.
Barrelback
Matt B
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TomB
Posts: 336
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:36 pm

Jim & Matt, thanks for your comments. A little slip match joinery would be a good way to trick the eye into seeing a plank that is wider than it is. And as long as I'm resawing anyway the color and grain from one piece to the next should be close enough that the end of one plank and beginning of the next shouldn't be noticeable. I should be able to pull that off, my joints will be barely noticeable from 100 yards and at 40 mph over open water. :D :D

After sleeping on it, Ive decided to narrow the planks and go with 9 or 10 planks rather than 7. It makes the plank about 1" narrower and I don't think I will know the difference once I step back a little.

A few years ago I wanted some experience with mahogany, resawing, laminating ,bending, and bungs in anticipation of the basic boat building tasks. I built a chair as a practice project. It was inspired by a chair I saw in a magazine.
044.jpg
With the chair experience I had confidence that my bandsaw and I were up to resawing for the boat. The clearance on the bandsaw is 5 1/2", so I tried 5 1/4". The blade screamed, the cut wandered, and I couldn't get anything that looked like something other than firewood. So I used the table saw to get most of the cut and then the bandsaw to get the center. It worked ok for today but I don't want to do a whole boat that way, more thinking need 'cause the sawyer is obviously doing something wrong. :roll: :roll:

Tom

BillJ
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Location: Southwest Georgia

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by BillJ » Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:06 pm

Tom,

I see you don't back away from difficult tasks. Really a beautiful chair.

BillJ

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hoodman
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by hoodman » Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:43 pm

Wow, I love that chair!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

TomB
Posts: 336
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:29 pm

Thanks Bill & Matt. The chair was a fun project for a guy that didn't have room to build a boat. I did the chair looking at the pictures in the magazine and I think Rockler sells plans now.

Back at the bandsaw, I reset everything and got three good planks...then the blade did a right turn...a bit of wood fiber got between the blade and the zero clear insert. No answer for the question, "why is he using a zero clearance insert for resawing?" :oops: :oops: Time to do something else for a while.

Tom

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BayouBengal
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Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by BayouBengal » Thu Jun 28, 2018 1:13 pm

I did all my plank spiling with a router. I know some folks don't like using a router and I'll admit I have a love/hate relationship with mine, but it worked out pretty well for the spiling task. If you're interested in using a router method instead of a bandsaw, I'll be glad to give you all the details.

I'd go with the wider 6 or 7 plank siding than the 9 or 10. It looks a little more Chris Crafty, but also it'll only be about 2/3 as much work considering that it takes as much time to glue and fasten a 4 inch plank as it does a 5. You'll also end up with some uneveness between the planks, so the more plank lines you have the more sanding you're going to have to do. Matt (Hercdrvr) is correct in saying that once you get closer to the waterline the length of the plank can increase and having only a 2, 3, or 4 foot long plank near the front of the bow isn't so noticeable.

Enjoying following your build. The stepped transom is going to be spectacular.

TomB
Posts: 336
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Thu Jun 28, 2018 5:19 pm

Thanks for the comment on spiling. Router spiling looks like a great approach. So far I've ripped the lumber to 5 1/4"x1", surface planed it, and now I'm resawing, taking a 1" thick board and making a stack of 1/8"+ thick boards, that is, I am still "sawing the hard way". I get three thin boards using the table saw and four or maybe 5 think boards with the bandsaw. For now, I'm still making the pile to be spiled. Ordered a new blade this afternoon. I started the transom rabbets this afternoon....

Tom

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billy c
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Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by billy c » Thu Jun 28, 2018 6:11 pm

Tom you can get away with a rough side on your board. I'd try for 3/16 boards as the ability for the board to take the exact curve of your hull isn't going to happen and there will be fairing involved. With a thin kerf in your table saw and the release cut from your bandsaw you should be in pretty good shape
Billy
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

TomB
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Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Fri Jun 29, 2018 3:19 pm

Billy, I yield to your experience. I have made 5 planks 5 1/4” wide x 5/32” thick x 6-7’ long. Three made with the table saw and two with the band saw. The table saw pieces where made free hand and the kerf side had some waviness and plenty of burn marks. A proper set-up would solve most of that. The bandsaw pieces came out almost useable, a single pass through the planner would yield uniform thickness and leave only a few blade marks. If applying the planks blade marks down I would be good to go.

Shifting to the transom…Today was the day for starting on the corner boards. The Tahoe as planned and as I envision uses a rounded corner board at the junction between side and transom. The corner boards made earlier didn’t fit so I had decided to do the diagonal planking and then cut rabbets and fit new corner boards. I would like to have all that done before planking.

So today, with a great deal of anxiety, I cut the rabbets. I have been loosing sleep over getting this right and while not perfect, it is nice to have that task behind me.
Port transom rabbet 180629.jpg
port trnsm rabbet 180629.jpg
I have given up on making a one piece corner board. I plan to make the corner board in three or four pieces with joints hidden by the waterline or guard and one joint that will show.
transom corner blocking 180629.jpg
Each of the pieces has a curve and a twist. (this is where I would insert the head scratch emoji)

Tom

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billy c
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Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by billy c » Fri Jun 29, 2018 6:09 pm

Tom
your 5/32 thickness is great. Just don't want to get a skimpy 1/8. :lol:
That is a pretty good challenge you have for the transom. Mocking it up in some foam insulation board first might help visualize the pieces?
Billy
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

TomB
Posts: 336
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by TomB » Mon Jul 02, 2018 4:33 pm

The foam is a good idea for a mock up. The old corner pieces wouldn't work as is but I cut them up and used them for mock up.

The transom corners are close to finished. They fill the rabbets and are a little oversized so I have material to fare when the planking is completed. I wound up with three piece corners. One joint will be hidden by the guard, the other joint lines up with a plank joint.
Port transom corner.jpg
starboard transom 180702.jpg
The corners will be set aside until the planking is complete. The planks will be allowed to overhang the rabbet so I can take a little off as I mate the corners to the planks. Hoping for tight joints.

Tom

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Post by JimmY » Wed Jul 04, 2018 6:51 am

Details like these will really make it one of a kind.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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