Tom's Tahoe

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

Moderators: Bill Edmundson, billy c

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1835
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby hoodman » Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:06 am

The rump on this boat is going to be something really special.

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Sun Aug 12, 2018 6:38 pm

Hey Matt, "rump", I like it, more friendly sounding than "stern"!

I decided to stick with seven plank courses and started planking at the sheer. I studied a number of methods and I may have settled on the absolute slowest way possible, almost entirely with a hand plane to spile each plank. Each piece gets test fit too many times to count as I try to avoid mistakes that I will notice.

I am planking one strip all the way around starting at the stem and working both ways, concentrating on alignment and tight joints.
planking 3 180812.jpg
I lightly sanded after the second course to see what the joints will look like.
planking 180812.jpg
The third course is almost ready to glue in place. I will slip planks behind it to get a joint line for the next course of planking.
planking 2 180812.jpg

Happy to be covering the plywood,

Tom

DaveM
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:57 pm
Location: Ontario Canada

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby DaveM » Sun Aug 12, 2018 7:10 pm

Your planking looks good, your method and installation is very similar to what I have done on a Tahoe 23. It is nice to have gravity help. One thing I found interesting was that my butt joints on the bow sections had to be visually squared for appearance, meaning put it on - stand back and look - ok square. On the straight sections aft I could use a square.

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:56 pm

Thanks Dave. I am using a square set to the spile line and mark a cut line, then flip the square to come at the butt joint from the other side which always marks a slightly different cut line, then I split the difference and cut. In essence, set the butt joint on the radial line of the curved/spiled plank. Then I step back and have a look. Interesting stuff.

Tom

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:59 pm

This is the spiling method I am following. Use a card to move the spile line up.
mark offset spile line.jpg
Slip a new board behind the board ready to put on the boat and mark the bottom of the new board. Cut the bottom of the board to shape. Put it back on the boat and transfer the spile line down using the card.
cut one edge then mark the other.jpg
Cut the top of the new board to shape. Flip the new board to the other side and check it there too. If it fits, use it for a template for a board on the other side. I glue the bottom course down after a full course is roughed out. The glued down course moves a little so no need to get the too perfect on the rough out. After the glue up is cleaned up I finish tuning the next layer.
3rd ready for glue 4th ready for final shaping.jpg
Rinse and repeat.

Tom

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Wed Aug 15, 2018 3:06 pm

I make a bunch of wood washer and backed them with packing tape to cushion the staple during gluing. About 80% get busted up removing the staples after the glue sets. So I switched to the staple through rope method. I find a few wood washers with a lot of rope works best for met.
rope and wood washers.jpg
3 down 4 to go.jpg

Three courses down, four to go, plus the bottom, and the holes in the bottom, and a little sanding...and so on.

Tom

JimmY
Posts: 664
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby JimmY » Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:53 pm

Looking great, Tom.

Thanks for sharing your methods, I'll refer back to this for the next boat.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

neel thompson
Posts: 1224
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby neel thompson » Thu Aug 16, 2018 3:22 am

Nice work Tom..... You are using the exact same method of planking that I used when I built the Gentry. It made sense to me to start from the bottom and work my way up. The only difference is that I used a Raptor brad gun and nailed through a batten to hold the bottom of the plank to the hull while I slipped next piece under the top. Then when I had it marked, I tapped the batten lightly with a hammer to release the plank for gluing. As a side note, you would be challenged to find staple holes from the rope/staple method.... I plan to use the same process on my current build, except I may use the Raptor staple gun through rope so I don't have to pull staples. I have to experiment with that first.

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Fri Aug 17, 2018 5:22 am

Thanks for the kind words Jim and Neel. My grandfather was a good teacher. He used whatever was in his pocket as a gauge, a nickel is the proper space around a door, dimes for window sash, paper money between guide block and band saw blade, and a business card to transfer lines so you can see them when coping a board. I’ve also seen many great tidbits on the forum. So this is the method I use for this task, but far from an original method. Heck, I probably picked up some of it from you two.

I’m getting ready to make some hull finish mockups. I am going to include raptor staples, staple holes, and FamoWood to see how they look under stain and epoxy top coats.

I’m old enough to remember when radios and heaters where options for pickups. Now formerly optional skeg and spray rails appear on nearly every boat. I see that most ski boats use a ski fin rather than a skeg and I see a few fins on the forum. For those with skegs and fins, what’s your recommendation? How do they affect performance and handling?

Tom

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1835
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby hoodman » Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:24 am

Tom, I don't think I've seen a lot of skegs on the inboard designs. Since the thrust off the prop is always in line with the center of the boat it's probably not necessary. On an outboard if you have a flat bottom you can tend to slide in a high-speed turn which is an interesting sensation or quite scary. My jon boat would do that on occasion, the remedy was less throttle. I'll let you know how my Geronimo tracks with the rather long skeg after launch, but there's no way to do an A-B comparison.

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Tue Sep 04, 2018 9:36 am

I dug around a little more on the skeg/ski fin issue. Bill Edmondson, has a skeg but wrote to the effect that it would be wise to hold off and see how the boat handles. So that's the plan.


Tom

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Tue Sep 04, 2018 9:47 am

It’s time for a science experiment.

Most of the hull is coming from the same log and the resulting veneer is mostly uniform in color. Sadly, there isn’t quite enough so I will end up with a few lighter planks. I have been using metal staples and the resulting holes mostly, but not always disappear. So far, I have been able to avoid gaps between planks but I want to experiment with how best to deal with the staple holes and any gaps I may discover during sanding.

I made five samples with a dark and light plank edge epoxied to a piece of pine strapping. Each dark plank got metal staples and each light plank got Raptor staples.
stain sample brd.jpg
The staple holes are still noticeable after removing the metal staples, but I enlarged a couple of holes with a nail set and filled the holes and an intentional gap between planks with FamoWood (see red arrow). The blue arrow points to Raptor staple legs.
famowood stained and raptor.jpg
Then I used an RO sander with P80 paper and applied the stain.
stained sample brd.jpg


I want to learn, what color I like best, if can I minimize the striping between light and dark boards, if FamoWood takes stain, if the “filler” in the stain fills the staple holes (if not, what is the effect of water on the holes), and what do the Raptor staple legs look like after stain and epoxy.

Tom

User avatar
Jimbob
Posts: 564
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby Jimbob » Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:11 am

I want to learn, what color I like best, if can I minimize the striping between light and dark boards, if FamoWood takes stain, if the “filler” in the stain fills the staple holes (if not, what is the effect of water on the holes), and what do the Raptor staple legs look like after stain and epoxy.

I used raptor brads on the final planking. I got the dark brown ones, eventhough the natural colored ones take stain. Was not too big of a concern as the brads were set into the mahogany and Famowood was applied to the small holes. Famowood takes stain just fine. I don't think I would use the raptor staples on the final planking, it may create dents in the mahogany.

Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

TomB
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby TomB » Tue Sep 04, 2018 11:50 am

I don't think I would use the raptor staples on the final planking, it may create dents in the mahogany.
I agree. I "hover stapled" holding the stapler off the work for the sample board. I would use wood washers for the real thing. My hull planking is all pulled metal staples but I wanted to see if they took stain. So far they do...unless the epoxy washes the stain off? Tom

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1835
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Tom's Tahoe

Postby hoodman » Tue Sep 04, 2018 7:46 pm

Have you tried a hot iron and damp cloth over the staple holes? It might get them to close up.


Return to “Hankinson designs”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests