Tahoe 23 project, Norway

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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Steven r
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2017 12:41 am
Location: UK Dorset

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Steven r » Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:19 am

Hi,
Beleave me SB corrodes as well in time! And the saying nail sick and then it pops a plank you can't win!
Steve.

Brad Tucker
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Brad Tucker » Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:25 am

TomB wrote:
So far, I have been able to find five screws with router bit and saw. In that respect, I much prefer SB.

Tom


:lol: router bits and sawblades work MUCH better than metal detectors!

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:15 am

Do I actually need the extra fastening on the plywood? Or ca i use small nails to hold it in place until the epoxy has harden?

Brad Tucker
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Brad Tucker » Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:32 pm

Are you talking about the subdeck, or the hull? The subdeck is attached with bronze ring shank nails. What most are doing, myself included, is to attach the hull ply layers using the Raptor plastic brads or staples. They hold the ply until the epoxy cures, and they don't have to be removed. You *could* use staples popped through strapping tape and use the strapping tape to remove them, but removing 4000 + staples is a pain, literally. As far as screws, the top and bottom of the sides are screwed to the chine and sheer. The bottom is screwed to the keel and chine. Every 6 inches, if I recall. Be sure to mark their locations so you don't screw a side screw into a bottom screw. Additionally, mark every screw you install into the sheer, including the ones used to build the sheer clamp. You will be installing covering boards most likely, and they will also be screwed down.

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:41 am

Oh happy day :)

DSC_0764.JPG


DSC_0766.JPG

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:47 am

Brad Tucker wrote:Are you talking about the subdeck, or the hull? The subdeck is attached with bronze ring shank nails. What most are doing, myself included, is to attach the hull ply layers using the Raptor plastic brads or staples. They hold the ply until the epoxy cures, and they don't have to be removed. You *could* use staples popped through strapping tape and use the strapping tape to remove them, but removing 4000 + staples is a pain, literally. As far as screws, the top and bottom of the sides are screwed to the chine and sheer. The bottom is screwed to the keel and chine. Every 6 inches, if I recall. Be sure to mark their locations so you don't screw a side screw into a bottom screw. Additionally, mark every screw you install into the sheer, including the ones used to build the sheer clamp. You will be installing covering boards most likely, and they will also be screwed down.


That's the answer I was looking for :)

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:09 pm

Looking at Edgar van Holtens build, I wonder how he managed to fit the motor in his boat under the lowered sundeck. Does anybody know?

http://boatbuilders.glen-l.com/tahoe-de ... in-holland

TomB
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby TomB » Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:18 pm

I like the sundeck. Have a look at the first column of photos, four below the anchor. He set his sundeck platform around the spark arrestor and also set the sundeck pad around the spark arrestor.
Last edited by TomB on Sat Sep 09, 2017 5:01 am, edited 2 times in total.

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Sat Sep 09, 2017 12:09 am

I was wondering if maybe he had raised the deck?

JimmY
Posts: 480
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby JimmY » Sat Sep 09, 2017 5:08 am

I pulled up a photo of Edgar's Tahoe, and another "stock" Tahoe (Butch's) and it appears to me that Edgar did raise the deck. There is a definite difference in the freeboard, especially near the transom. He also, may have changed the angle of the transom, but it is hard to tell.

image-32.jpg
Edgar's

pic792-2.jpg
Butch's


Also, here is a photo of Edgar's frame. It looks like Edge has 4 battens on the side vs. 3 for a stock Tahoe.

IMG_5840.jpg


I'm not sure if you just continue the curve of the sides to raise the deck, or if he re-lofted them. It's an awesome build none the less.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

TomB
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby TomB » Sat Sep 09, 2017 5:44 am

I'm not sure what he did. There are four battens on my build and four on Edgar's. Edgar's frames might be a little long, like he may have raised the sheer a little, it would only be 2-3". He used a CNC to route his frames and used gussets of his own design, so I suspect he had access to CAD resources.

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:32 am

Interesting. That's one of the things I'd like to change. The freeboard. If he active in this forum?

JimmY
Posts: 480
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby JimmY » Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:15 am

This was the other photo of a "stock" Tahoe that I was referring to. It only has 3 battens on the side. The photo of Edgar's, he has four battens, and he hasn't installed the Sheer yet. Not having looked at the plans for the Tahoe, are the number of battens optional? I thought he might of just extended the side by the spacing of battens at each frame.

img_0074.jpg
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

TomB
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby TomB » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:11 am

I'm with ya' Jim, these pesky builders seem to just do anything they want! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Charlie Kelly went the other way with 5 battens on the sides.
thumbs_picture27.jpg
thumbs_picture27.jpg (18.45 KiB) Viewed 112 times


The instructions call for "Spacing should not exceed 5" between battens. There should be at least four battens per side..."

Back to Toivo's thread, when I compare what I'm doing to Edgar's photos, I can't see much difference in freeboard. On the other hand, it wouldn't take much to raise the sheer or to increase the deck camber to get a sun deck above the engine.

I'm anxious to see what Toivo comes up with.

Tom

Toivo
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:08 pm

Re: Tahoe 23 project, Norway

Postby Toivo » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:25 am

Tried to compare a couple of other pictures. Hard to tell if there's any difference...

"Stock"
Skjermbilde 2017-09-10 kl. 19.17.38.png


Edgar
Skjermbilde 2017-09-10 kl. 19.20.34.png


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