Key Largo Build in Charleston

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TomB
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby TomB » Thu Feb 22, 2018 3:15 pm

The guide rollers don't provide as much support for the real thin boards and they will tend to vibrate/bounce under the blades. Lifting the board going in or coming out of the planer will put down pressure on the material under the cutter helping to reduce tearout and snipe. And as Jim suggested, shallow shallow cuts. Good Luck.

Tom

mickfly
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:19 am

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:20 pm

Update on Sapele planking.

Thanks for the helpful advice. I was a bit worried about this, but it went GREAT.

I had one plank that was much thicker than the others so I decided to do a trial run, without changing over to new blades. I got the thick plank down to about 5/32 without any chatter, tear out or other problems. The only "jig" I used was some 3/4 finished plywood to raise the deck of the planer. I had some plywood scrap with a very smooth, laminate like, surface, which seemed to help.

I checked each subsequent board with calipers and grouped them by approx. thickness before passing them through. I was able to run all planks on the same final setting at 5/32. It went so well, I did not change the blades, wet the wood, or do anything else "special"...just ran them through. All the high tops of the band saw roughness are gone and I am expecting a good bond! There is now a very rhythmic set of shallow lines on most boards that will likely strengthen the bond.

I dry fit the first row of planks, starting at the chine, and then tried the compact router trick I have seen others using. My Makita compact router came with an edge guide. It is not as elegant as the jig I saw some others using, but it worked great! I have a 1/8 bit and can align the bit flush with the edge of the guide to minimize waste. I put the top of each second row plank under the previous row and the bottom edge of the plank just at the bottom of my sharpie line. A quick zip with the router (left to right) and the 1/8 removal was just right and after a tiny bit of work with the sanding block or mini-block plane...the bottom edge hit right at the top of my sharpie line! So cool...and will make much faster work of the planking process.

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:16 pm

Dry fitting the sapele in place. It's a lot of work, but rather satisfying. I'll post a picture of the fence on my Makita router...which has saved time and reduced waste.
Attachments
sapele planking 3.jpg
sapele planking 2.jpg
sapele planking 1.jpg

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby Jimbob » Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:00 pm

Looking good! This was one of my favorite parts of the build.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:51 am

Thanks Jim. Your boat looks great and is a model for me to follow. Speaking of that...I see that nice crisp, white boot cap in the picture. Did you just, as some suggest, measure up a few inches from "set-up level" and tape it off...or did you, as some other's suggest, float it first?

I would like to have all the bottom paint, boot cap, and varnish (except for final coats) done before the flip... Any advice appreciated.

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby Jimbob » Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:34 am

Re the boot stripe:
As you say, I measured from the setup level ( I understand that is where the waterline should be). I marked the stern of the boat and then the bow of the boat, then used a laser to connect the two marks. I was going to use 2" boot stripe tape, but ended up masking and painting the stripe with a spray gun. (probably easier than trying to lay down the vinyl tape without wrinkles etc.) I believe the paint I used was interlux boot stripe paint. One thing to keep in mind is that as you build up coats of varnish, the white gets a yellowish tint. I might repaint it when I am done with my varnish coats or consider the antique look.

Your bottom paint should come up to the setup level. The stripe can be painted over the bottom paint and part of the planking. That will clean up any bottom paint edge. On the bottom paint, I finished up with coats of varnish and then buffed out. It is nice and shiny. A restorer at the Lake Tahoe boat show suggested the final varnish coats on the bottom.

Even though I consider myself a nutty perfectionist, at this point, I don't care if the boot stripe is a little off. I will just tell people that it's the current, or that the lake is not level. :lol:
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

mickfly
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:19 am

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:05 am

Thanks. I assume you started at set up level and then painted the stripe 2" up from that? I have a laser level...so that will work.

I really like that your boot stripe landed slightly above the chine...as I have seen some "curved" boot stripes...and don't like that look as much. I'll go with the, in may case, ocean being out of level if the boot stripe shows!

Bottom paint...I am considering using graphite in my epoxy...so the entire bottom is solid black. That is, no paint. Then apply the bootstripe above where the black epoxy ends. I got this idea from another build I saw on this forum... and also the sailboat I built in 2008...bottom paint gradually removed by the skids on the trailer. Bottom paint scratched off when I beach the boat to let off passengers...etc.

Thanks also for the varnish reminder. I have been thinking about that when I do either caulking or hardwood filler (ash or basswood) between the deck planking...that is, the varnish turning it yellow. I wonder if I can mask off the boot stripe and not varnish... and not get the yellow? ...Or repaint as you did?

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby Jimbob » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:10 pm

Haven't used it yet, but plan to paint over the white caulk after final varnish coats are done with Beugler striping machine shown in the link. It was suggested in Don Danenberg's book, The complete wooden runabout restoration guide. I don't feel like masking the caulk lines again so I think the striping machine might be a good alternative. If I goof up, I will wipe of with mineral spirits and try again.

https://www.amazon.com/BEUGLER-DELUXE-D ... 922AYK0NSW

The graphite in the epoxy sounds like a neat idea.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

mickfly
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:19 am

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:59 am

I see some have used braided rope as a "washer" for their metal staples on the final mahogany layer. If you have done that...
1) Can you pull the staples out by pulling the rope?
2) I assume the rope is reusable for several planks?

I also wonder about spacing my steel staples for the final layer. In some spots (currently using plywood washers) I am three inches apart...in others 6. It's easy to know when there is no squeeze out on the edge...add another staple...but looking for general guideline...if there is one.

MIck

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby DrBryanJ » Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:35 am

I used staples through rope for my side planking. Spacing was very variable. Used what felt right for that piece. As far as pulling staples; pull rope and staples came out (mostly). A few times only one leg came out and I had to pull with pliers. Remember to wear work gloves, because staple legs hurt if you grab them when you grab rope. It was more work getting the staples out of the rope then the side planking. I used a cheap 50' piece of rope from Home Depot. I used the same rope for all the planking. I could probably still use it to staple through, but it is useless for anything else.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:05 pm

Thanks Bryan. I am going to try it tonight! ...and I have some leather work gloves!

mickfly
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:19 am

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby mickfly » Fri Mar 16, 2018 11:22 am

Put on a few planks last night, using rope instead of plywood washers for the staples. This morning I pulled the rope off. It worked well. Only about 20% of the staples came out with the rope, but it was much easier to pull the one "leg" out on the remaining staples with a pair of "horseshoeing" pliers. I am going to save a lot of time over the next few weeks...and the surface will need less sanding and repair. With the plywood washers, I occasionally get a staple leg too short to pull out...that means a nail set...and putty. Looks like I will avoid using the nail set for future planks. Thanks Bryan.
Attachments
planking with rope washer.jpg
planking with plywood washers.jpg

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BayouBengal
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby BayouBengal » Fri Mar 16, 2018 1:36 pm

That's nice looking work!

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DrBryanJ
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Location: New Jersey

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby DrBryanJ » Sat Mar 17, 2018 4:43 am

Nice job! Glad it worked out.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

boisebrit
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:42 pm
Location: Boise, Idaho

Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Postby boisebrit » Sun Mar 18, 2018 3:18 pm

Great work your catching up, finally after 3 weeks back back on my key largo :{ , have 3/4 planking on one side and 5/8 on other.

Keep going we are on the final push here now want to be covered by end of March, so can't wait to see yours covered as well. Look forward to checking in with you as we both get ready to stain and varnish after a lot of block sanding.

Bryan

http://boatbuilders.glen-l.com/key-larg ... oise-idaho


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