Monte Carlo coverboards

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Brian
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Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Brian » Wed Dec 26, 2018 11:21 am

I've searched the Forum, but none of the discussion talks about cover boards on top of ply subdeck, or how to make the curved boards for the bow section. The Monte Carlo uses a full 3/8" ply sundeck (all the way to the shears), with 1/4" mahogany on top. If the cover boards are to be like 5-6", keeping the grain going straight would required either several pieces of wide stock, or one super wide. In fact, there is no such thing as a piece that wide, which would be half the width of the boat at the panel (about 3'). Does anyone have pics of how you priced the cover boards together, especially at the bow? Maybe the grain just can't go straight, but follows the curvature in sections?

Walnut versus stained mahogany?

To screw, glue & bung or just glue?

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Jimbob
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Jimbob » Wed Dec 26, 2018 11:54 am

Mine's a Barrelback, but I would think the process would be the same for your boat.
My plywood subdeck butted up to the coverboards. The coverboards were not on top of the subdeck. My coverboards are in sections. I made a pattern out of mdf using it so that each opposing coverboard was a mirror image of the opposing coverboard. The coverboards were mounted out from the centerline of the boat. Very important when it comes to the final decking. You want to have evenly spaced deck planks. Most of my coverboards were 4/4 mahogany boards, except in the back which were thicker. After they were shaped, I installed bungs over the screws.
Hope this helps!

Jim
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20170908_170331.jpg
Bungs prior to trimming down flush
20170922_172121.jpg
Coverboards with bungs trimmed prior to subdeck installation.
20170905_123156.jpg
Here you can see the first section. The plywood edge tacked on was to aid in shaping the coverboards. It was removed later.
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Jimbob
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Jimbob » Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:11 pm

In answer to your question on the material for the coverboards, I used mahogany stained with Sandusky walnut stain like they did on the original boats.
Pic below:

Jim
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20180210_172726.jpg
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
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jamundsen
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by jamundsen » Fri Dec 28, 2018 12:10 pm

The Monte Carlo was definitely a challenge. I think I used 4 or 5 boards on my cover boards. I also stained them with Sandusky walnut stain like the original. If I were doing it again I would use a water based stain. The stern was the most difficult. I’ll go take some pics and post them for you.
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Lakeland,Fl

Work tends to get in the way of boat building

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billy c
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by billy c » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:01 am

Brian, If you are able to select your own lumber, pick boards that have a natural curve in them and you will find that goes around the bow toward first cockpit pretty much in one piece. If you end the board with an angle cut, you can get the grain to appear to transition nicely throughout. I think the difference in Glen's lines vs Kens is Glen runs a subdeck under the coverboard and Ken runs full thickness boards.
Billy
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

Brian
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Brian » Wed Jan 16, 2019 4:54 pm

Thanks guys, and for the pics. As I said, my cover boards will be 1/4", but nonetheless, I am unable to find wide enough Sapele to make the bow curve in one piece. Even if I could, the largest band saw I know of here is 16", so that would be the limit of the width, if I could find it. I can get 10-12" boards, and have asked my supplier to see if he can special order wider Sapele, but no. The distance from the centerline to the outside of the gunwale where it gets straighter is over 3 feet, so to make it in one board would be virtually impossible. Can you butt together narrower pieces with the grain to make the width? That might be done so as to be almost invisible. Anyone have experience with this? I'd hate to do it in "4 or 5 boards" as jamundsen did, but maybe that's how they did it originally? Thick or thin boards, it's the same problem.

PeterG
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by PeterG » Wed Jan 16, 2019 6:42 pm

Always tricky making the cover boards in as few pieces as possible... Chris Craft, Century, Garwood, all used the widest pieces they could find, typically about 12". They did put butt joints in the cover boards where they had to. Using the full width of the stock determines where those butt joints fall. The older boats had two, three or four lengths per side depending on the hull shape.
I cut the cover boards for my Malahini from one 8/4 (2") plank 17" wide and about 17 feet long. I cut it into two 8' pieces and then resawed and planed these into three 1/2" thick by 12" wide pieces. I can flip them to book match the grain at each butt joint and an added plus is consistent color and grain on port and starboard side.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Brian
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Brian » Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:38 am

Wow, Peter, that's one BIG board! I haven't been able to find Sapele that wide, although I think I can get 12" 4/4 by about 12'.

The "butt" I was talking about was linear, ie, side-by side. I have done some of this and a careful seam with the grain from the same board is almost undetectable. I'm thinking of ripping/planing 8-10" boards to 1/4" (my overboard thickness), then butt-joining along the grain to achieve the width to make it look like one board (except for the butt joints for length). I might be able to do the 28' in two "single-looking" boards that way. The grains would stay parallel to the centerline, as if cut from one 3' wide plank. Might actually be easier than any other method.

TomB
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by TomB » Sat Jan 19, 2019 6:46 am

Brian,

The long edge seam would probably work, only needed in the fullest area of the curve, not full length. As an alternative with three or four pieces, the butt joints could be made into a feature, rather than a straight perpendicular edge, use an S curve. (I'm good at finding ways to make the difficult into really difficult :roll: :roll: ) Tom

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Roberta
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Roberta » Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:17 am

This is one example of joining cover boards and avoiding a butt joint. It is difficult and wasteful to use large boards. Better to make creative joinery and maybe book match opposing boards. Even well made butt joints don't look bad. Also best to taper the joint to prevent shrinkage in the joint.

Roberta
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deck boards fitted 002.JPG
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

steves
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by steves » Sun Jan 20, 2019 12:21 pm

coverboard1.jpg
coverboard joint 2.jpg
My forward most coverboard was over 16" wide. It allowed me to only have 5 coverboard pieces on each side, in the pic below you can see the "z" shaped joints in the rear end and possibly if you zoom way in you can see the first coverboard piece went all the way near the windshield.
My coverboards were from the same tree so the color and grain are the same however they are not bookended.

You can see my joint design (copied from someone else!!) in the other picture.

Coverboards took forever and truth be told I still haven't finished sanding the outer edge to get the profile I want. I'm waiting until my back deck on my barrelback is in place so that the shapes are more contiguous.

Please don't mind my sawdust (man glitter)!

Steve

Brian
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Re: Monte Carlo coverboards

Post by Brian » Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:44 am

Wow, Steve & Roberta, major help, thanks. Love both of those joints! I'm designed for 1/4" cover boards, but Think I can still do plugs, which I prefer.

I think the widest Sapele I can get is going to be 12". So, for the bow piece, I'm going to try making a 24" wide section by edge-joining two 1/4"pieces from the same 4/4 board. The Sapele I've been getting is very straight grain, so I'm thinking I may be able to make the grain-line joint almost invisible. Will try to post a pic if it works!

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