Building my Tahoe and having a blast!

[TomB]

Yup.

The plans call for three layers of 1/8" plywood planking on the bottom and two on the sides. Everything works good when the layers meet at an angle. At frame 10 the angle goes to zero so there would be a 1/8" step. It might be easier to figure it out now than to grind off the planking step later (my method) I wish I had rabbeted the chine, frame 10 and stem to account for the extra layer of bottom planking.

The bottom edge of the chine seemed like the natural chine line for my hull. I had to add to it to give the bottom planking something to land on. Consider moving the chine line up a little between frame 9 & 10 so you have plenty of meat on both sides to catch the planking as it goes down. I worried about exactly where the chine should end. In hindsight, up or down an 1" is invisible on the finished hull.

Can you get a hitch for that beautiful Cobra to pull the boat? They'll look great together.

Tom

[Bluesman]

Wow, good tips! This is what I need.. I didn't think too much yet about how the different layers will meet up, I guess I was thinking it would get faired off to mate up. I'll have to mull the rabbet idea over..

Really there's no frame on the back of that car, literally there's some 3/4" square tubing and nothing else but fiberglass shell. Others have proposed the same boat / Cobra combination.

I think it would look really cool behind a woody wagon or a mid-50's pickup, maybe a Cameo. Something period correct for the right wow factor.

[Brad Tucker]

Thanks man, and I hope you may have found some useful information! I'd currently advise to pay attention to how things want to lay between frames 8-10. That, along with that bottom to side transition in the same area can be a real head scratcher. I lapped it like they showed in the "Boat Building with Plywood" book. Had to do some feathering of the wood with a belt sander too. But to my eye, you may need to take more time to lay an eye on those battens up front between the chine and keel. You might even consider laying in battens like I described. I imagine the test fit of your first layer will show what I mean.

[Bluesman]

Is there a rule of thumb for locating the exhaust ports? The outlines as shown are about 1 inch below the set up level, does that look OK or would you suggest something different?

[Bill Edmundson]

Ted

Looks good. The set-up line is the approx. waterline. I don't know which engine you plan to use. An inch above the waterline should be good. If you are planning to have single exhaust, I would still cut the hole in both sides of the false transom. If it is ever repowered with duel that part is done.

Bill

[TomB]

Ted,

What Bill wrote, plus cut the false transom holes oversized so you can get in there to tighten something someday, inspection, limbers, etc.

Tom

[Bluesman]

OK folks, I'm done with the final base layers and I need some experienced guidance...

Glen-L calls for screws at the perimeters (transom, keel, chine, sheer, stem). I'd prefer to NOT have too many plugs in my final veneer so the idea is to put the screws in now, then lay the mahogany on without screws. Does this create a problem long term?

Since the final veneer is only 1/8" what difference would it make? I'm sure that plugged look is from days gone by when boats were build with solid heavy planks...

BTW, I've used System 3 GelMagic epoxy and a generous amount of Raptor brads.

(Yes, that is an obvious low spot on the bow.... full disclosure. I'm working on it.)

[DrBryanJ]

Many have veneered their boats with only epoxy and staples. Some use raptors, others metal staples later pulled.

[TomB]

OK folks, I'm done with the final base layers and I need some experienced guidance...

Glen-L calls for screws at the perimeters (transom, keel, chine, sheer, stem). I'd prefer to NOT have too many plugs in my final veneer so the idea is to put the screws in now, then lay the mahogany on without screws. Does this create a problem long term?

Ted,

I can't help with the experienced part, or the long term part, but that's what I did. All my hull screws are buried under the veneer layer. My logic was that the plug thickness couldn't be any less than the veneer thickness (5/32" for me) so no structural reason wait. I set my screws flush with the final layer after final fairing.

Tom

[Bill Edmundson]

Ted

I put the screws under the veneer. All's well almost 12 years later.

Bill

[Bluesman]

Thanks Bill! You and I have discussed this at length but my general question also brought up another point for me to consider, which is Raptor nailing through some backer material.. I ordered brown brads and I believe I can knock them off flush without much dimple repair and I think they'll be less conspicuous.

Glad to be moving onto the next stage! These base layers took some time, I started the first planks on 9/21/19.

[Bluesman]

"The quality goes in before the name goes on...", or at least that's the plan anyway. First rough sand on the transom and pleased with the results.

[monitor]

Awsome! And do you have a name picked out yet?

[mrintense]

Funny you should mention a name. I struggled for months trying to come up with a name for my boat way back when I started. I finally came up with one I liked only to decide more recently that I didn't like it as much as I thought. So my boat is currently still sans name .

[Bluesman]

I have a list of possible names but nothing has been decided yet. We keep editing things in / out as time goes by and we think of something new or decide to chuck something that doesn't seem to work.