Rub rails

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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Aussie
Posts: 471
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:31 pm
Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Rub rails

Post by Aussie »

Hi Brian,

My build is a Belle Isle 23ft.

Yes the bottom edge of the rub rail is relieved so it hugs the side nice and firm.

The end was a pain to round off and then polish, was done a panel beating hammer and dolly.

The rubrail at the front is a short nose capping which is two bits of rubrail welded together and polished so that it covers the rubrail to cutwater, was going to do it with two full length pieces but didn’t want to risk it. I think that the capping piece looks ok anyway.

Brian
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Mine is a Monte Carlo, stretched to 28' (against Glen's advice, so we shall see). Maybe big enough to be drier, however, I've also put more weight in it than designed. I'm hoping it's a tradeoff and it will all balance out. Pretty stupid approach for a 7 year project, but there it is. I'm unreasonably confident it will trim out ok. If not, there is always a cavitation plate and bags of lead up front. Not so confident it will be dry. Maybe we will just cruise around at 10 mph!

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mrintense
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Re: Rub rails

Post by mrintense »

Interesting thread here guys. And some very nice work to boot. My plans call for wooden rails along the deck edge but haven't made up my mind on this yet. It's rather intimidating looking at some of the work done here. I hope I can make mine look this nice.

Rounding over the deck edge gives the deck a nice finished look. Seven years Brian. I feel for you. I'm in the same boat!
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

Brian
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

mrintense, we may be in our projects a ridiculously long time (I was thinking 3 years!), but we are almost there, while many have given up. I do wonder, "What next?" sometimes, as I'll be 75 when this launches.

Apologies for being blunt, but I would be concerned with wood rails (although I've seen them). I suppose if you're really careful and follow up with repairs, you'll be ok. If it's a compound curve rub rail, maybe laid up in sections, that adds another risk and a lot of work.

We're all determined to be careful, but sometimes that's out of our control. In my case, the rail offers no protection for the aft 1/3, where it rolls into the barrelback. Perhaps the best reason for going with a stainless rail is "bling". We started fitting mine yesterday and it was like "Wow!", as it always is when you add the shiny stuff. The rail ties the whole thing together and emphasizes the lines of the boat. BUT, a good SS rail is not cheap or easy to design and install to look right. In that regard, dealing with wood will be much easier and cheaper. Good luck with whatever you choose!

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: Rub rails

Post by Hercdrvr »

Brian,
I agree with you about the functionality of a rub rail along the sheer on the back half of a Barrelback. It’s only bling and covers up the seam between cover board and side planking. Rub protect will have to be halfway between the chine and sheer back there. Matt B

Brian
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

I actually have another rail for that section, to be mounted after I get a look at it in the water. If the spray back there is not too bad, it will go against the hull. If I need spray rails, it will go on top of them. I'm deferring all of this because of my hull mods leaving me in the "experimental" category. Glen was not happy when I took his 24.5' to 28'! Fingers crossed.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Bill Edmundson »

The piece that you on the aft part of the on the side is a guard. It should project out past the chine. The rub rail mounts on that guard.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Roberta
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Rub rails

Post by Roberta »

On the Torpedo, I just rounded over the transition joint between the deck cover boards and the hull. The 3/4" hollow back SS rub rail fit nicely over the transition from white paint to wood. I've hit many a dock with my rail with little ill effect. Maybe a scuff or two. I stayed away from long lengths of rub rail and stuck to 6 foot lengths. As the rail bends around the shear line, it can develop a nasty twist that will not straighten out and follow the line. The shorter 6 foot lengths will better follow the line and are a lot less expensive to purchase and ship. The joints are not noticeable and the shorter lengths can be more easily replaced if damaged.

Roberta
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Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Brian
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

As Roberta mentioned, we are finding it really hard to bend/twist the 1-1/8" rail around the bow section. The rest of it went on without too much persuasion, but the last 6 feet or so is very scary. I have a big strong kid helping me twist and bend as we progress through the 8" spaced screws, and there is no doubt we can eventually get there. However, my fear is that we suddenly put a crimp in it, and the party will be over. I'm wondering what others have done to make this bow bend with this 1-1/8" rail? Do we just continue with muscle power, or is there some technique I am missing?

JimmY
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Re: Rub rails

Post by JimmY »

I had a similar problem on my build, and was able to get it good enough. I have not tried this, but a friend suggested wedging the rub rail in a PVC pipe (smaller tube inside a larger tube or fill with sand) to prevent kinking. I have smaller tube benders made out of springs that work on the same principal, so it may be worth a shot. You may end up having to cut off the tube.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

Brian
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Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Thanks, Jim. So you are saying to pre-bend the bow section rather than muscle it around?

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Rub rails

Post by Jimbob »

Bryan,
I attached my rub rails starting at the cut water and moving back. Starting at the cut water I screwed the rub rail down one screw at a time. My screw holes are 6" apart. Each screw brought the rub rail into the curve of the hull. I let the un-attached rub rail stuck out from the boat, resting on a support as I was screwing the rub rail down.. Basically each screw pulled the rub rail down in place.
Jim Neeley
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Roberta
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Rub rails

Post by Roberta »

That's what I did. Isn't 1-1/8 inch rub rail kind big. Most boats are 3/4 or 7/8 inch.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Rub rails

Post by Jimbob »

Roberta,
Classic boats had 1 1/8" rub rails. We both had our reproductions by made by the same guy.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

Brian
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Jim Thorpe, King of Stainless Steel, said 1-1/8" is the classic size for a 28' triple. The good news is it gives you lots of seam coverage!

Jimbob, we started from the bow and it just seemed impossible. The first couple of screws wouldn't hold it. Now we are in the same spot with less leverage! Plus, the joint between the two sections is already established, so the chances of restarting at the bow and landing exactly on the butt joint are slim to none. I think we just have to muscle it in and use longer screws.

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