Rub rails

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Rub rails

Post by JimmY »

Brian wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 10:04 am
Thanks, Jim. So you are saying to pre-bend the bow section rather than muscle it around?
Yes, It should be enough to bend a simple curve into the rail. If you put paper on the side of the hull and draw a line at the deck, when you lay the paper flat you will see it is a simple curve. Bend it to this curve and when you apply it you should be able to twist it into position.

I tried to bend my rub rail as I screwed it down, but it tended to bend and kink at each screw hole.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Jimbob
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Jimbob »

I think that the moldings underneath my rub rails probably helped in preventing kinks or bends at the screw holes.
I ended up using 1" screws on the rub rails.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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Aussie
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:31 pm
Location: Sarina Queensland Building 23ft Belle Isle

Re: Rub rails

Post by Aussie »

My rubrails were only 3/4 so quite easy to bend around the bow and twist where needed.

Jamie

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kens
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Location: Coastal Georgia

Re: Rub rails

Post by kens »

I just went with wood rub rails, but then, I have a painted hull topsides. The rub rails are the same wood as the inside carling, so that helps the wood matching. I had thought about the stainless rail caps, but never feel the need now some 10 years later.

Image

In the Sapele wood, can you see how the bronze boat screws seem to disappear in the wood??

Image
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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Rich Coey
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Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:44 pm
Location: Modesto, CA
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Rich Coey »

Rub Rails? Screws? what screws? I don't see any screws.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Nice picture of the twins.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Bill Edmundson »

I used 3/16"x1" 6061-T6 on the Bartender. Pretty easy to work with. 6061-T6 is a structural grade aluminum. It doesn't pit in a salt environment. It may not polish well.

https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-pr ... m-flat-bar

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Brian
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Well, I've resorted to heat. No way that rail is going to bend and twist cold with screws. So it's back and forth between the shop and boat for fitting. I'm using MAPP gas, which gets about 2-3" red hot at a time and following that along a foot or so, using a Jorgenson clamp to twist. Even at that, it isn't easy and the twist/bend is hard to estimate. Of course, the SS is all discolored now, but I've confirmed on a scrap piece that it will buff out. Been working on one rail for 3 days. Not sure if I'm getting there or not.

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mrintense
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Re: Rub rails

Post by mrintense »

Brian can you post some pictures?
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

Brian
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Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

I wish I could post pics, but last time I went through the process I ended up asking Gayle to do it for me. Not sure why I'm such a dunce at it, or why you can't just drag and drop into this Reply box.

The status now is we have one side on, but there is still a section that is away from the hull at the bottom. Probably needs another heat up and a twist. With MAPP gas, I can only get about 2-3" cherry red at a time, while my friend uses a Jorgenson to twist. The rebound is considerable, so it's really driving blind, trial and error. The last couple of feet to the bow is a reverse twist, just to make it real interesting! The bow, of course, also slopes forward for drainage, so the forward 4-6' of the rail also needs to be bent downward.

If there are any metalworkers out there, maybe some help? I'm wondering if repeated heating is doing anything to the material. It never gets easy, so I'm sure if I had a huge MAPP gas source and head, it would be easier. Also maybe more of a risk of deforming.

TomB
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Rub rails

Post by TomB »

Brian,

I'd like to see photos too. To add photos, go to the attachments tab below the reply box, click on the add file button and navigate to your jpeg photo (pdf doesn't work), once you get the green check mark at the right click on the place inline button and you're done. Hope you'll give it another try.

Tom

Brian
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Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Test
Attachments
IMG_0844.jpg

TomB
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Re: Rub rails

Post by TomB »

A+ congrats

Brian
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

It works! Thanks!

The discoloration buffs out, so no worries there. As you can see in the underside shot, we still have about 1/2" to go there, which is more twist. The alignment is not perfect yet. I will drill out the fitting screw holes and epoxy hardwood dowels in them to make the final holes.
Attachments
IMG_0851.jpg
IMG_0850.jpg
IMG_0849.jpg

Brian
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:06 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Rub rails

Post by Brian »

Oh, and that's just a quick coat of Interlux sealer on the deck and bare epoxy on the sides.

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