Planking

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keith Miller
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Planking

Post by keith Miller » Sun May 09, 2010 5:38 pm

Hello:

This is my first post on the forum. I am building my second boat a Biscayne 22 (here is a link to picks http://woodboatbuilding.shutterfly.com/)

I'm about to start the final layer of planking with Genuine Mohagany.

I have a couple of questions about planking the sides.

Where should I start planking, at the chine, shear or in bettween?

How should I deal with the difference in height from stern 25", mid-ship 33" and bow 20"?
Do I need to taper the strips?
If i do how should I do it?

My planking material is 3" X 1/8" Genuine Mohagany.

I thank you in advance for your responces.

Keith Miller

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jamundsen
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Re: Planking

Post by jamundsen » Sun May 09, 2010 6:57 pm

Hi keith
I had the same question. This is what I did. I decided to use 7 planks on the sides. you will have more with the 3" width as I used an averageof 4". At each frame I measured the distance and divided by 7. I used mm instead of inches as it was more accurate. At each point I put a small nail. I then bought a long thin board to use as a batten and drew a line from the bow to the stern following these marks. I then matched all the planks to these long lines. That gave me a line to follow for cutting each board. They will narrow towards the bow but will follow the lines of the boat.
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Lakeland,Fl

Work tends to get in the way of boat building

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Bob Perkins
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Re: Planking

Post by Bob Perkins » Tue May 11, 2010 8:26 pm

I planked mine with a process called spiling. It has been used for many years to create planking.
I essentially created each plank one at a time and fit them in place.

The first step is to line off the hull.
I used John's method above, but there is an easier way to 'line off' the hull.
Take a large sheet of paper and draw a center point on the bottom, and a series of 7-8 dots along a line 6 inches apart about 18-24 inches away. Now draw a set of lines connecting the single dot to the 7-8 dots above, making a fan pattern.

You now have the ability to create lines on the hull w/o math. Take a strip of paper, or a batten and mark at the sheer and the chine on the hull. Now take the batten and lay it across the fan pattern so that it is horizontal and put the sheer point on one side and chine at the other. The intersection of the lines and the batten are the width of the planks. Transfer the points to the batten - and then to the hull. Do this at each frame.

Now you have a series of marks on the hull to use a long batten and 'line off' the hull.

The remaining step is to spile the planks in place.

All that said - it is a long process, but it makes very realistic looking planks.

Hope this helps.
Bob
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Bob Perkins

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keith Miller
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Re: Planking

Post by keith Miller » Wed May 19, 2010 3:49 pm

Bob:

Your Biscayne 22 is amazing.

I am having a little trouble grasping your line off the hull technique. I guess I'm struggling to visulize how you did it. Would it be too much to ask for a sketch of the technique?

How wide were the planks you used?

Thanks

Keith Miller
Keith@robertsheating.com

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Mr Hot Rod
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Re: Planking

Post by Mr Hot Rod » Fri May 21, 2010 10:02 am

Not what Bob was describing, but a similar method ... Scroll down to the section on Spiling Strips :
My apologies if it leads to even more confusion ! Maybe someone can provide us with a better reference ...

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keith Miller
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Re: Planking

Post by keith Miller » Fri May 21, 2010 2:58 pm

Paul:

Thanks for the link, I'll give the spiling strip a try.

Keith Miller

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Bob Perkins
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Re: Planking

Post by Bob Perkins » Fri May 21, 2010 4:14 pm

The Spiling strip link is on the same idea. It accomplishes the same thing. It allows you to evenly divide the hull at each frame w/o math. You then line off the hull using a batten front to back.

I did find some pics on what I did next:

First - I temporarily stapled a section of veneer to the hull. Image

If you can see, I then used a pencil compass and carried the previous planks edge down to the one I was making

Next I trimmed to the pencil line and tacked it back on the hull up close to the preceding plank. Once there - I had made a small attachment for my trim router that followed the edge of the prior plank and milled 1/2 depth (1/16") in the new plank a line that perfectly follows the line. The reason for this is that you can't get the right shape with the compass and it was quicker that trying to spile and hand fit (at least for me..)

Image

Now I moved to the bench and trimmed to the line the router made

Image

Once I fit it perfectly against the prior plank, I would trim the ends to fit - make some marks on the hull -transfer the plank widths to my new plank. Finally, on the bench, I would use a batten, connect the dots and trim a nice smooth lower edge.

Image

I had pretty wide veneers so the planking came out very realistic looking. This may be a bit too much work using 3" wide stock.
It certainly takes longer this way ...
Hope this helps
Bob
Regards,
Bob Perkins

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keith Miller
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Re: Planking

Post by keith Miller » Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:14 pm

Bob:

Thanks, I've got it now!

I'll make the 3" strips work But I'll get some wider stock for the bow. It will take up a bit of time.

Thanks again,

Keith Miller

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galamb
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Re: Planking

Post by galamb » Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:23 pm

Spiled (if that's a word) planks, by far, look the prettiest - all the work definately pays off.

And using that method you can use practically any width of plank that is pleasing to the eye. Chris Craft used to divide the distance between the chine and the sheer (at the midpoint) into 5 or 6 equal sections and use that width for their planks.

If that seems like too much work and your "planking" is simply cosmetic (going over a plywood hull as an example) you can use thinner planks (1 1/2 max) without having to "hand fit" each one.

You can start with a "master plank", often oriented in line with the sheer or the chine (but could be parallel to the waterline) and basically just let them run (wild) in line with your master plank - running out to wherever they finish - and then trim off the overage flush with the stem or transom as the case may be.

The thinner strips will conform to curves and each other without having to be spiled (think of a stripper canoe). The appearance is somewhat like a hardwood floor of yesteryear, but the application is a whole lot quicker.

Just another strip method to consider...
Graham

Yes, Plywood is "real" wood :)

A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it :)

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