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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 5:58 pm 
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Thanks, Andy!! Your boat look's great and will be your pride and joy and you will love it as I love mine for all the right reasons.

Roberta :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 7:50 pm 
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Roberta
that finish is really stunning :D
looks like the tried and true stains and varnishes of old works real well for our new builds too!
i need to do something over my WR-LPU and think maybe i can get away with sanding that for a mechanical bond then applying new over the existing. did you try applying any of your varnish over any of the system three LPU anywhere on your boat?
-Billy

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:34 pm 
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And I used to be happy with my 10 inch deep shine! Guess it's time to get the buffing pads out. Great job.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:02 am 
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Excellent!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:51 am 
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Thanks, everyone!! Billy, the only place where the WR-LPU might have under-lapped the Epifanes was along the boot strip, but I think it may have been sanded off mostly to the epoxy. I made the parting line along the old boot strip and applied a new one after sanding and scraping most of the old one off. Try a test area first before trying to do the whole boat.

Roberta :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:10 am 
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but as a general rule, can you or should you seal the deck before epoxy encapsulation. No other area of the boat was stained or sealed, but I am considering some stain on Meranti ply areas and wonder if I should seal after the stain and before epoxy.

Penny for your thoughts Roberta.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:23 am 
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For the deck and sides above the waterline you can seal or epoxy after staining, but I wouldn't do both. If you are intending to use lightweight glass cloth over your bright work, then use epoxy as a sealer. Previously I used epoxy under the WR-LPU on my sides and deck, but no cloth. This time I just used the Pettit 2018 sealer and no epoxy under the Epifanes. I could have used epoxy as a sealer, though.

Roberta :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:32 am 
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I like sealing the bare wood with a couple of coats of epoxy because you can apply heavier coats and fill the grain faster. Scuff after cure and start right in with near full strength varnish.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:08 am 
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As I suspected--the epoxy IS the sealer over stain. Thanks. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:33 pm 
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Spent the last two days putting all the Bling back on Oliver IV. Most is back on and we will be putting her back on the trailer tomorrow. The motor will be remounted next weekend and all the rest hooked up.

Happy New Year!!!!!

I'm posting a pic of the original colors and two of the new colors.

Roberta :D :D :D :D :D :D


Attachments:
bling on 2012 004.jpg
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bling on 2012 001.jpg
bling on 2012 001.jpg [ 130.29 KiB | Viewed 464 times ]
near done 003.jpg
near done 003.jpg [ 117.42 KiB | Viewed 464 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 4:52 pm 
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Looks fantastic Roberta , I hope I can achieve a finish close to that


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 5:20 pm 
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Roberta,

What a huge difference. I thought your boat was beautiful before and now it's even MORE beautiful! I really like the new colors--much richer. Wonderful job!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:14 am 
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Thanks, Gayle and Jenko!! I really like the colors, too. They are the original Chris Craft red and dark walnut and really give the boat a classic look.

In retrospect, I enjoyed working with both the WR-LPU and the Epifanes. Both had their trials and tribulations. The WR-LPU was odorless and water cleanup. You could recoat several times a day and the finish was durable. It was, however, finicky to work with and needed high humidity to help level and maintain a wet edge. If you were lucky enough to get good conditions when applying, it leveled out and presented a beautiful gloss that remains quite clear and non yellowing. If you need to buff it out due to dirt or orange peel, it is very difficult because the paint is very tough and does not buff out easily.

The Epifanes is very predictable and will give you that super deep shine if you follow recommendations. It levels well and keeps a wet edge. In hotter conditions, a retarder is available to help keep the wet edge longer. Humidity is not a factor unless it is extremely high. It buffs out beautifully and easily to remove any surface dirt that usually settles on the surface, especially in a garage or hangar environment. It does have it's downsides. Twelve coats is a minimum to get a good , deep shine, sanding between coats is necessary unless using the Wood Finish Gloss in the initial layers. You need to wait at least a day between coats to thoroughly dry. It smells and it is solvent cleanup. Because the product is amber in color, it will yellow and darken any surface it is applied to. This could be good or bad. Durability remains to be seen, for me, anyway.

Cost is similar and the work required is similar. Sanding with a longboard is required in either case to get a good, flat, finish. Epifanes may take a bit longer due to drying times required between coats. Good surface prep, patience, and a lot of sanding is required in either case.

What will I use next time? Have to wait and see.

Roberta :D

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:57 am 
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Really nice work Roberta..... You should go into business!! I know at least one potential customer!!! Take care,,,Neel


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:54 am 
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Thanks, Neel!!! I put too much of myself into my work and would have a hard time parting with it. Besides, I'm getting to old for this to be more than a hobby. :lol: :lol: :lol: I need my rest and time off!!!

Roberta :D :D :D :D

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