Brisbane Squirt

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Keelkicker
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Joined: Thu Jun 13, 2019 9:58 pm

Brisbane Squirt

Post by Keelkicker » Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:19 pm

Hi all

Just wanted to say hi from Brisbane Australia - my squirt plans arrived today and I'm now trying to decipher everything - its going to be a long haul I think (but looks like fun!) I did buy the building plywood boat book too and am just waiting for that to arrive before I have at it.

I apologise in advance for what is likely to be a barrage of questions, but any guidance will be much appreciated !

So to begin.... a question or 2. I've been reading the posts on how to build the frames and most seem to transfer the outline to some sort of template - cardboard / plywood etc - before setting it out on the wood. Is that so that the frame template can be full size (mirror imaged) and measured for accuracy etc before transferring to the wood and cutting out the frame in one piece ?

I was planning on going straight from the drawings to the wood using the wife's dressmaker wheel spindle thingy.
My thinking was that transcribing it twice would at least double my chance of error ? But now I like the idea of being able to check a template for accuracy / symmetry before letting loose on the expensive stuff.

cheers

mark

Hercdrvr
Posts: 924
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by Hercdrvr » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:24 am

I make templates out 1/4” plywood. They are easy to make because you can lay the plans out on a full sheet of plywood and make an accurate transfer. I too use my wife’s dressmaker wheel and carbon paper. Once the plywood templates are cutout they can be easily checked for accuracy against the plans.
Matt B
Squirt, Malahini and working on a Barrelback
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DrBryanJ
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Location: Pompton Plains, NJ

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by DrBryanJ » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:31 am

Mark, I think how you attack the frames depends on what tools you are comfortable with. For me, I like using a router for a lot of wood work, so making templates from hardboard was the way to go. If you have a sanding table or prefer other tools maybe transfering the pattern to wood and cutting out maybe better for you.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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Jimbob
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by Jimbob » Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:57 am

I made my templates from 1/2" mdf.
It's easy to shape and it is thick enough for a flush trim router bit to ride against when you trim the good hardwood.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by hoodman » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:59 pm

I used transfer paper and traced the patterns directly to the frame wood. There's lots of ways to do it.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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Keelkicker
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Jun 13, 2019 9:58 pm

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by Keelkicker » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:41 am

Hi

Thanks for the responses. I'm still working things out but I've had some less than stellar results with the direct method (truly awful) in the past, so the the MDF sounds promising - cheers !

Mark

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Brisbane Squirt

Post by JimmY » Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:09 am

Hi fellow Squirt builder,

I high recommend double checking the symmetry of the patterns from left to right. When copying "blue prints" they can stretch along the length of the print due to the rollers in the copying machine. This will be most noticeable if one frame is laid out 90 degrees from another on the drawing. If you have a full pattern, it doesn't matter which side you chose, but use one side as a master to layout the other. On the Squirt, check the distance from the center line to each of the battens on the transom and frame 1. These should the same or very close to each other on these two frames.

Also, the notches for the battens should be sized for the wood you buy/mill for these pieces. Before cutting all the frames, I milled the battens and settled on a size for the sheers and chines so I could cut all the notches to fit.

A few tips... I found it easier to install the sheer before the chine. Having the sheer in place gave me a place for clamps to help twist the chine to fit. For the sheer and chine consider using 2 or 3 laminations to make up these pieces. This reduces the chances of cracking them and will make them easier to bend into shape. Consider making a "chine" breasthook. There is a breathook for the sheers at the top of the stem, and making a similar piece that fits lower down on the stem will give you a larger area to fasten the chines to. Also, when bending the sheers and chines measure side to side between the frames to help keep your hull symmetrical.

Other than these, I followed the "plywood" book and it answered most of my questions.

Please post your progress, most of us are going through builder's withdrawal.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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